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About Andyk93

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    Star Forming

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  1. Polar alignment with an auto guider and sharpcap take about 30 seconds to get a very close alignment. You can then plate solve to your target, I haven't found any need for any auto align so I would personally get rid of it
  2. Imaging Kit (and Lomo 80/600)

    Hi, if you do end up splitting it I am very interested in the baader LRGB filters
  3. starting from scratch

    I've never once had problems with my windows 10. It's all just worked with eqmod and CDC from day one. Although I do have quite a powerful laptop to deal with it all
  4. Autoguider and Scope Choice

    This is the correct one to buy. https://www.altairastro.com/altair-60mm-miniguider-with-autoguider-webcam-focuser-tube-rings-multi-purpose-base.html it comes with the correct focuser, just put your camera into the holder and focus it. Nothing else is necessary, I've tested it with an aso120 and qhy5 and it doesn't need any extensions
  5. Small refractor for imaging

    Is the canon 7d mk2 a full frame sensor? If it is, it will probably be much cheaper to buy a new camera first, telescope that support full frame sensors tend to cost thousands
  6. Small refractor for imaging

    I had this decision a few months ago, between an esprit 80 and WO star71 II. I went with the star71 because the esprit 80 needed a flattener (spacing hassle) it doesn't have tube rings which means a guide scope would need to be side by side mounted. The star 71 doesn't have those problems and I personally think the focuser is better.
  7. Autoguider and Scope Choice

    That's the exact one I bought. I found it very easy to focus anyway, it took about 5 minutes but once it's done it's just fixed and you never have to touch it again
  8. Autoguider and Scope Choice

    I have just bought an Altair Astro 60mm mini guider. It's a really well made piece of kit and I have found it perfect for guiding
  9. Autoguiding Advice Needed--NOW RESOLVED :)

    With my 130pds I used my finder/guider on the dovetail shoe, rms was 0.55 most of the time so pretty good. If your worried about weight why not use the finder that comes with it, pipe clamp it to the top of the telescope and use that. I've never struggled with finding stars with a qhy5. It's also the cheapest option because you will only have to buy an adapter and the guide camera
  10. Undriven/Unguided

    You can get one axis driven and both axis driven. You can't guide without the mount being driven because it is sending guide pulses to the mount and telling it what axis to correct in. You use guiding on a scope to keep the target perfectly on course for as long as your imaging. This means you can get image exposures that are much longer.
  11. I had this problem a few months ago, and ed80 is much slower than my 130pds so I ended up spending my money on a WO star71 mk2 that I'm still waiting for, you seem to have to spend quite a lot to get f5 in a refractor compared to the 130pds
  12. phd2 min-mo or no no!

    Give it a go, that's what I found. Too high aggression on my neq6 was making the RA snap backwards and forwards instead of gently correcting it
  13. phd2 min-mo or no no!

    My min.mo is usually around 0.10, when I started guiding I did what you did and put aggression up really high thinking it would correct better. I've now got a lot better results by doing 4 second exposures and the aggression is usually 10 Dec, 20-40 on RA. I only guide in one direction for Dec also.
  14. Kendrick Solar Filter Left!

    Kendrick white light solar filter remaining. £30, was £84 brand new and it's been used once.
  15. If your using the canon camera on av mode I have found that paying attention to the histogram is not a good idea because the camera auto stretches the data. This means you get a low ADU. To get an ADU and a flat that looked right I had to put exposure compensation to +2. http://www.myastroscience.com/proper-flats-with-dslr