Thalestris24

I bought some Sylvania brand 70W starters from the local Toolstation this morning - their last box of 5 for £1.50 . They have a quoted non-reclosure voltage of >150V. I believe they give off light more in the blue end of the spectrum but I'll have to test one to be sure. Still, here's a grab from the youtube video I saw one on: Looks pretty blue-violet there! Could be mostly argon and/or mercury. Probably rich in UV so best not to stare at it... I did find that you can get so-called 'spectrum tubes' of single gases for ~£15 each but they are like 26cm long and need a special, expensive eht (1000-5000V) power supply (though I daresay one could put a diy one together). Louise

Oh ok, that's reassuring - thanks! I'm sure I'll be ok to keep the files I have anyway. I'm pretty sure I have backups of all my important files on an external hdd but I'll double check my backups are up to date Louise

It's great to have an updated version but I'd better make sure I don't lose the lowspec 2 files in case I want to do any reprints... Louise

Hi I don't know for sure. A guesstimate might be ~30s. Personally, I wouldn't put a 130pds on an eq3 pro anyway. Better to stick to a shortish frac., imho. Whatever you image with you'd really need guiding anyway, though you'd probably get away without if you image with, say, a camera+ 200mm lens. Of course, you can always just try and see what you can get without guiding Louise

This looks like a good video for calibrating the Ender 3 extruder. I'll have a go at following it tomorrow: Louise

Hi I didn't know there was such a thing as calibrating the extruder! I'm a 3d printing noob - the lowspec has been my first go at printing anything. I had a look at your link but didn't really understand it... I have an Ender 3 Pro and use Cura to do the slicing. Mostly I've been printing parts in 'super quality' i.e. 0.12mm. I'd noticed that some circular parts had a diameter of about 4% different from expected. I'd assumed that was just due to shrinkage. But perhaps it's a 'calibration issue' then. I'll look deeper into it should I do any more printing! Thanks Louise

Both sides look the same to me! But I have poor eyesight (cataracts). As I say, I'll put it back the 'right' way when I change the holder. The new version is printing now Louise

Yeah, that's how I had it originally. TBH I couldn't really tell the difference between the two sides. Never mind, I'll try printing out the new holder and swap it round again when I exchange the original one. I take it it's otherwise exactly the same size. Is the white slit illuminator part still the same? Oh, I had loads of trouble getting the lock ring to engage the thread on the holder (printed in PLA). In the end I printed it a little small so that it more or less snapped in instead! Thanks Louise

Thanks - I just notice you posted the Lowspec 3.0. I'll have a look? Also should I have the Ovio radial slit the way you've shown it in the 2.0 assembly guide? Thanks! Louise

On the current Lowspec, as I'm using, the holes are only about 4mm dia...

Oh ok - I might try that then - I suppose some tracing-type paper is the nearest thing I (may) have. However, the starters aren't that bright to start off with so minimum of 30 sec exposure needed without diffusing. 45sec better, I expect. I'll have a fiddle in the morning . I think the shiny side of the foil helps reflect quite a bit of light back towards the slit. I'm intrigued by Paul's upgraded slit holder design he mentioned above. Having more of the slit available would be good. I did wonder why he only had relatively small round holes over the slits. An oblong hole would likely be better. If I'd had the original design file for the holder I might have had a go at changing it myself but it's properly Paul's design, of course! Cheers Louise

Hiya - it was just that I'd had the assembly out to help mark where to drill a hole for the bulb holder. I'll have a fiddle with it tomorrow. Louise

Yes, it does. Hope I can upgrade to the new version, then! By the way, there has been some discussion about which way round the Ovio slit should be. I did have it as shown in your assembly guide but was then advised to change it to have the 'right way round' numerals facing the telescope. Maybe you could clarify? Thanks

Ok - that's what I have, and with a foil reflector. I thought I'd explained what I'd done clearly before... Louise

The lit part is just opposite the slit - if that's what you mean? Louise

Finished off the starter bulb holder today. It's just a push fid into a hole in the lid which now also has a matching hole cap You can't see it here but there is some aluminium foil wrapped around to make a reflector. I got an ok exposure with 30s compared to 2mins before: Not sure why it appears a bit blurry at the flipped bottom. I'll have to check the slit holder assembly is seated ok. Probably still needs longer for the blue end (my Atik 383l+ isn't the fastest of cameras...). I'm going to investigate different bulbs - I've seen a 'Sylvania' brand 70W bulb on YouTube which appears to glow blue-violet so might be worth a try. My local Screwfix sells them so might pop up there soon, now that the shops are open again up here from tomorrow (still a bank holiday today!). Also, when I get the cheap, Chinese inverter, if it works and I can locate a 110V AC tapping I should be able to run from that, and also without a resistor. Louise

Hi Heq5 is the superior mount. It allows you to fit a belt mod which makes tracking and guiding much better - and quieter! Also is supported by Eqmod. The AVX is ok but my one suffers from a lot of backlash. It does have the Celestron Nexstar+ hand controller which is quite good and remembers its settings. Louise

Hi again There is a disadvantage and limitation in that obviously you can only see what is passing the restricted fov at the time. If there happens to be some cloud where you are pointing... PA isn't an issue. My windows point East (West from the bedroom but I seldom do anything from there). So I just roughly align in azimuth but use PHD2 to drift align in Alt. Works for me. You only really have to be aligned in the direction you are viewing/imaging. It may be a bit more problematic if the direction is North/South East rather than due East as I have. Of course, if you have a skylight and can see the celestial pole, also fine. As mentioned, on the plus side - nice and comfy! You can relax on a couch, watch tv, have coffee etc. whilst you are imaging . Otoh, I do wish I could get outside and image some different targets but I'm stuck in the flat . Louise

Happy New Decade Everyone!!!

I'm always home alone so these things pass me by! All the best Louise

Happy New Year, Ken! @Merlin66 Louise ps I expect you've gone to bed by now!

Thought you were using the mains battery adapter... Would have helped if you'd said straightaway exactly what you were using! Glad you got it working ok Louise

Hi Maybe check your auto power off and live view shoot enable settings. Louise

Oh, that one - sorry, I was thinking of the simple circuit that Paul posted from Richard Walker's book: https://www.ursusmajor.ch/downloads/inverter-12v-dc-_-230v-ac-3.0-englisch.pdf Simple, small, easy to build - if you want to spend the time and trouble! Louise