Thalestris24

Um, I meant how best to adjust the collimation lens? When I try to get the best focus it's not been easy to get a sharp image so was wondering if that might be due to the position of the collimation lens? Maybe there's another reason... Thanks Louise

Hi Ken 🙂 How are you? Um, not really. Having put the Lowspec back together after it fell off the scope, I've been struggling to get a clean calibration lamp spectrum. I changed the Atik over to a qhy183m which is much more sensitive and easier to use. But I've been getting a lot of 'ghosting' with the image. I've been trying to improve the calibration source by putting it in a holder with a slit. It doesn't seem to help if I diffuse the source. Not done anything with it today. I've been struggling with adjusting the focus also. Can you remind me how I check collimation? Is it by counting the number of pixels from the illuminated slit? Thanks Louise

Ideally you need to test the focus on a distant object. If during the day then maybe a couple of km or more - but you will still have to make a small adjustment to then focus on stars/infinity. The Moon is always good if you can see it! Louise

It may do - I couldn't say, I'm afraid. You need something that will have the right optical length so that you can get focus via the prism. I've no hands-on experience of fitting or using an oag. I take it the oag is for a long focal length scope? Louise

Hi It looks like the fitting is t2 rather than the usual 1.25". Maybe you can remove part, or all, of the t2 barrel and fit a t2 to 1.25" adapter? hth Louise

Well it looks like tightening the under bed rollers seems to have fixed both problems - wobbly bed and loose adjusters. If so, I won't bother with new springs just yet. Doing a quick test print. I don't have anything big I need to print at the moment. I have been thinking about reprinting the Lowspec lid so might do that in the near future 🙂 Thanks everyone for all your help, advice and ideas! Louise

Now then, it looks like I have to go back to the assembly/bed adjustment... My bed is wobbly - I always thought that was normal - d'uh. Having done some research, it looks like I need to adjust the rollers. I think I probably also need to do something with the springs but must get the fundamentals right first! Louise

Ok, I tried tightening up all four nuts. However, that leaves the nozzle about 8mm above the bed... The vertical home position of the nozzle is fixed by the position of the microswitch. I can't see any way to move that up so I'm pretty much back to square one. Looks like the only way to get the right height is to loosen the springs again. Louise

I've also seen this ad on Ebay (stuff is nearly always cheaper on there!) "Pack Of 4 Creality Bed Springs These spring are simply the best and in my opinion the ultimate you can buy for your 3D printer, being of the highest quality Japanese import. If you are tired of your heated bed loosing it's level after a print, and always having to re-level the heated bed this is the solution. On the Creality Ender 3 this is a major frustration caused by low quality bed springs, these improved longer stiffer springs will help. Replacement is very easy just undo and remove the bed level knobs, then lift up the heated bed, carefully remove the old springs from the screws, slide the new stiffer yellow springs into place. Now fit the bed back onto the carriage and attach the knobs and re-level your bed, due to the increased length of these springs you may need to adjust your Z axis end stop on certain Creality 3D printer models. Suitable for Creality Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Creality CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-20 High Quality Stiff Flat Ended Compression Springs" Louise

Maybe new springs then, or maybe I need to tighten all nuts 4? Or both things? Louise

FWIW, here are mine: Sorry it's a bit crooked - the printer is actually horizontal, honest! The springs don't look particularly strong - spring length as is , is about 15mm Louise ps a slight knock of the wheel nuts can change the bed level. They are very loose to the touch, so to speak

Ditto the other comments. Only 2 years older than me - reminding me of my own mortality. Louise

Maybe the ender 5 has better springs?

There is a mention of a spring upgrade here Maybe I'll get some replacement springs and give them a whirl.

I don't know - does anyone else here have an ender 3 pro?

Hmm... my bed seems to move a bit between prints. That's what I was saying about the adjusters/wheel nuts being loose and 'sloppy'. I'll have to have a close look at it tomorrow. I see you can get replacement 'upgrade' springs and metal nuts but it's not clear whether they improve the bed stability. Maybe it's just my printer that has this problem? Maybe it's just me... Louise

Hmm... I think I don't understand how it works. What happens when the bed moves - as it always does (and needs re-levelling pretty much each time I print something)? Louise

Thanks Paul Yeah I'd glanced at this before. It involves changing the firmware which is something I didn't really want to mess about with... Plus it still relies on judging a piece of paper... Plus doesn't do anything about the tendency of the bed height to move. I'll look into maybe adding locknuts. I'll watch the above video properly when I get time. I have the Ender 3 Pro with the magnetic bed - not sure how that affects things. Louise

Hmm... well... thanks for the suggestions, guys! Something to think about. Louise

Yeah, I can do a ROI but the camera itself is still slow (low qe) and noisy (db). The qhy183m will be much better, quicker, and much more sensitive 🙂. I'd really prefer to see the whole spectrum to focus on also. I'll try the qhy out tomorrow 🙂. Louise

Yeah, I think I understand that the way 3d printers work mean the beds can't be too rigid - I just think they could be better! I might have a proper look at the underneath of the bed of my printer to see whether maybe just putting in stronger springs might improve things. It was quite a cheap printer and I suppose you tend to get what you pay for... Louise

ps there must be something better than the current thumbwheels used for adjusting the level - they are sloppy, to say the least, and seem to come loose when you breathe on them! I've not seen any upgrades/improvements for these, but I'm not in the know. Surely there must be something better that will help keep the level once it's set? Louise

Hi Gina I only have a 'standard' ex factory Ender 3 Pro... Of course, I've seen the BL touch sensor kits but I don't really understand what's required for installation. There are lots of 'different' kits on Amazon, so not even sure if they are the same or not. It's a jungle out there! I don't want perfection - just better than I seem to be able to do with bits of paper! Hopefully someone here can advise 🙂 Louise

Paper isn't that bad - it's my senile judgement that's 'that bad'!

Does anyone know how straightforward it is to install a bed levelling device and how good they are? I'm getting fed up with trying to level my Ender 3 Pro with bits of paper. It nearly always comes out unlevel for larger prints and levelling mechanism isn't great to start with 😞. I'm a bit worried about having to flash firmware etc - please reassure me if you can! Thanks Louise