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Paul Gerlach

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    Houten, The Netherlands

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  1. Installation of the roof. Used some painters tape because I'm not very good when it comes to silicone sealant . The black 'skirt' is to cover the small opening.
  2. This evening (they get noticeably shorter) I installed some elements of the roof. The telescopic rails, side panels and roof support. Al the brow-black parts are 3D printed.
  3. The frame is made out of aluminium 30 x 30 mm profiles. 1200 x 1200 mm foot print, 1300 mm height. Walls are of 6 mm thick HPL panels. Roof side panels of the same HPL. The top 3mm HPL sandwiched with aluminium.
  4. After work, finished the sliding door to gain access to this small telescope housing. Next will be the roof.
  5. Found some time today to build on my mini observatory.
  6. Another step. Placed the Electricity cable. First pour of concrete for the floor. A foam border is to keep the concrete from the floor away from the concrete pier so no vibrations can be transferred. Tomorrow I'll place the rebar and do the rest of the concrete.
  7. Hi Rodolphe, Those are concrete palisade (120 x 15 x 15 cm). I matched it with the footprint of the observatory (120 x 120 cm).
  8. It's a electrically powered pier from Pier-Tech. I bought it about ten years ago and will probably never part with it
  9. No automation of the roof. I'll simply open and close it by hand. The pier can be extended lifting the telescope out of it's enclosure. Telescope will be operated remotely.
  10. After a few years without one I finally started the build of a new shelter for my telescope. Here a few pictures of the work in progress. Cheers, Paul
  11. Valerio, Are you sure you've placed the slit disc in the correct orientation? Meaning that the mirror surface is facing the inside of the spectroscope. If not, it could be that the bright light is being reflected between the two surfaces of the slit disc.
  12. Focusing on dust that's on the slit disc is not a good idea. The slit itself lies 1 mm lower than that dust. Be aware that the reflective surface containing the slits should face towards the optics inside the LowSpec and not towards the telescope. I would suggest to remove the slit assembly and use a laser collimator at the telescope end of the Lowspec to see if everything lines up. the laser should strike the mirror, collimator lens and grating in the centre. If not, you can adjust the 'big' mirror by slightly loosening the centre screw and use the three grub screws to tilt the mirror in the correct position. Don't forget to tighten the centre screw afterwards but make sure not to over tighten it. Then put the slit assembly back and remove the camera lens (first loosen the little grub screw at the side of the focus assembly). Close the lid and point the lowspec at a bright light source (not the sun!!). Use a small scope (telescope finder, binocular, etc.) that is focused at infinity and use that to look at the grating from the camera opening of the Lowspec. Now turn the micrometer screw inwards until you see an image of the slit itself (zero-th order) in white light true the little scope. Loosen the screw of the collimator lens a bit and use the screw driver to move the position of the collimator lens until you see a sharp image of the slit. Tighten the collimator screw and place the camera lens back. When you attach a camera to the Lowspec and notice that the spectum is off centre, you can adjust the 'big' mirror again to place the image back in the centre.
  13. They are just dust caps. In case you don't use the LOWSPEC and want to store it.
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