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Paul Gerlach

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About Paul Gerlach

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    Houten, The Netherlands
  1. No, that's the 30um slit. The 'old' LOWSPEC 2 has a round opening in the carousel that holds the OVIO slit plate. It appeared to mask off one side of the line. Does yours have that round holes or did you use the adapted version I placed somewhere on this thread? Check the tension of the spring. Tighten it with the grub screw. The goal is that you can turn it with some force and that it clicks into place. If there still is some play, disassemble the slit holder. Remove the grub screw, spring and steel ball. Try to enlarge the small opening where the steel ball protrudes slightly with a small round file. The aim is to make the ball protrude so much that it completely 'grabs' the notch of the slit carousel. Did you check the orientation of the collimator and camera lens? The face with the largest curvature should face the grating. Paul
  2. It's better to point at a bright illuminated white wall so the light is more diffuse. I'm puzzled by the poor image. Did you check the optics after that second drop? I've made a quick image of order zero (slit image) with the LOWSPEC (3) pointing at an illuminated ceiling. Mind you this is with camera lens in place and ATIK314L (2x2) Paul
  3. First remove the camera lens from the LOWSPEC. Place a small guide scope, as Ken suggested, in front of the camera opening that is focused at infinity and look into it while the front-end of the LOWSPEC is facing a light source. Then turn the grating towards the collimator until you see the zero order (the image of the actual slit itself because the grating is now acting as a mirror). Adjust the position of the collimator lens until you see a sharp image. Secure it and place the camera lens back in the LOWSPEC. Paul
  4. Hmm, don't know. Why use a 3D printer? Why does it have to resemble something that it's clearly not? At the moment it does not resemble the real steak but just a 3D printed shape. It would be more easier to press it into a shape (which could be 3d printed ).
  5. Well, you are right that you still have to probe with a piece of paper. But this time it's a bit different. First you level the bed as you always do; at the corner point by turning the wheel underneath the bed. After you've done that you activate the bed mesh levelling. The process involves probing a grid of 3x3 point. The nozzle is being moved to a point and you place a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle. But now you don't move the bed with the wheels. Instead you move the bed closer or further away from the nozzle with the help of the computer interface of the printer. If the distance is correct you confirm and the deviation is stored. Then the printer will move to the next point and so on. In this way a 3x3 grid map of the deviations is stored. When you print after this calibration routine the map is used to move the bed closer or further away from the nozzle in order to maintain the correct distance. So in a sense the nozzle is following the contours of the print bed. You'll probably don't have to repeat this process unless you change the nozzle or make some changes to the bed. Paul
  6. Louise, The solution you are looking for is called 'Manual mesh bed levelling' and it's free. Take a look at this video:
  7. Ohw my! That terrible! Was it PLA glued onto PLA? What glue did you use? I had mine LOWSPEC attached to the telescope for weeks and did not have any problems. But that was printed in ASA and the threaded inserts we glued with a fair amount of two component epoxy glue. How's you camera? Hope it survived this ordeal. Regards, Paul
  8. Joe, Everybody started out as a noob , so don't worry. I've used a 300 and 1800 grating but you can use anything in between. As for the calculations, Ken Harrison has placed a link to an 'adapted' version of SIMSPEC that has the LOWSPEC optical specs already filled in. With that spreadsheet you can play with the numbers (telescope parameters, slit, grating) and see what the resolution is. I've found that it underestimates the resolution a little bit. The measured resolution of the LOWSPEC with the 300 l/mm grating is about 800 and with the 1800 l/mm grating I've measured a resolution of 9500 at H-alpha. The resolution 'R' is a dimensionless number that is calculated by taking the Full With Half Maximum (FWHM) of a spectral line and divide that with the wavelength of that line. It is not a constant across the spectral range. The LOWSPEC is designed so that you can scan the whole optical range 400 - 700 nm with gratings up to 1800 l/mm. As for the cost of the non-printed parts; the optics (lenses, mirrors and one grating) will cost about 600 Euro. But that could be more if you don't live in the EU (customs etc.). The other hardware (nuts, bolts etc.) 10 to 15 euro. It depends where you are. As they all are metric components it's easy for me here in the Netherlands to get them cheap. Especially when a hardware store like 'Hornbach' is in the neighbourhood. There you can even buy things like nuts, bolts, springs etc. per piece. You'll just have to weigh them. If you happen to live in a county like the US then getting your hands on metric components can be a bit of a challenge. As for software for analysing spectra, all the ones I know of are Open-Source: Vspec and BASS are the best known. Regards, Paul
  9. Uhh yes please!! Great work Lucas! I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics but I'm eager to learn. I can make out the Arduino Nano but I can't place the other components (ULN2803) and a capacitor. Is that for controlling the stepper motors? I would like to see more of your design. I think most observers will eventually want to control things remotely. A while ago a LOWSPEC user in Spain came up with something similar (link) but I find your use of 3D printed gears much more appealing. I'm not so sure about sticking the Relco bulb directly in front of the slit. I think It's better to do it via a diffuser (e.g. reflecting it of a white surface). Regards, Paul
  10. Beautiful results! Makes me very happy to see the LOWSPEC being used this way. And also a bit envious because I don't have my equipment operational
  11. Thanks. I'll have a look. The circuit of the ALPY unit look even more compact. I can't see a transformer unit. The component that takes up most of the space. Paul
  12. That step-up converter from China finally arrived. Hmmm Looks way to bulky to my taste. Compare that to the ALPY electronics that does the same job and more. How can I get something smaller, more elegant?
  13. Yes, I'm working on it. Still waiting for some components from China... As soon as I have produced a good working prototype I will place it online. The plane is to incorporate the calibration unit in the lid. That's why I moved the screw that tightens the guide camera to the other side of the instrument in this version 3. That way I have more space available on the lid side.
  14. Yes, it still is 45 degrees. Choose that configuration to keep the whole thing relatively small so that most, if not all, 3D printers can print the main body.
  15. Okay, well my nozzle is 0.35 mm and my Felix Pro 3 printer is maybe a bit more precise in the x-y direction. Good point. I will leave the inner diameter at 17.5 mm but will extend that edge more so that all printer can actually print it.
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