Physopto

Since posting this, bar one short post, I have kept quiet and watched a fair few people commenting on JTW Engineering. I mostly prefer not to comment on things I know little or nothing about. I do hope that the mounts promised and I believe paid for do turn up and work really well. The reason for this post is that Mark of JTW Engineering contacted me shortly after the above post. I was surprised but grateful for his email. In that email he said hat he was sorry that things had not gone according to expectations and wanted to make things right between us. As I said I was surprised, but thought why not give him another chance. It has taken a little while as I had to find the original drawings, but a few emails later Mark said he was getting the faulty part remade. There have been a few delays, but I would guess he is busy with other promised items. A few days ago the part arrived with me. I could not check it out properly due to weather but today I did. Mark had said that if the threads were not quite right it may be because he had hand ground the original tooling. But he would remake any faulty parts as soon as he knew about the results. Now he had factory supplied tools so any threads should be perfect. To cut a long story short, the threads, were perfect and screwed on to the other part previously supplied without any problems. I now have a working setup without the part I had to adapt, along with all the other correctly machined parts as originally ordered. There were 8 parts in all and some of fairly complex shapes. They were designed to fit on my Takahashi 85mm between the Feather Touch Focusser and the powered Pyxis 3" rotator. After the rotator they were designed to allow fitting of an Starlight Xpress AO unit, OR a spacer could be fitted in its place and then on to the QSI 683 wsg CCD. I designed the parts so that the AO and/or CCD could be rotated to any position regardless of any item in between. I am attaching some diagrams and photos to illustrate my ideas. In practice every thing has worked as designed so far. I originally looked at Precise Parts in the USA. I sent an email with some specifications to them but their answer was to tell me I had not given them some data. I pointed out that it was in the original email and to actually try reading it properly. After that they refused to answer any emails I sent to them. EXIT Precise Parts !!! I estimated their costs to me to would have been in the region of $1500 or more. Mark has done the same and with extremely precise dimensions (checked by me) and his prices were much lower! In the end, OK there was some bad and long delays for whatever cause? But I now have all the parts well machined and in use exactly as requested, doing their job perfectly. I hope this gives hope to those awaiting his new mounts. Derek ( Parts 1,2,3,&4) Male Optec threeand a half inch to 72x1mm swivel adaptor (11).pdf (Part 5 ) A.O. Unit to 2.156 inch x 24 tpi.pdf (Part 6) Tackahashi 72x1mm to 2.156 x 24 tpi CCD adapter (final).pdf (Part 7 ) QSI ccd camera adapter for 2.156 inch x 24 tpi.pdf (Part 8)QSI end cap drawing for STL 2.156 inch x 24 tpi.pdf

Nothing better than a DOB. I must admit that. DOB,s are so versitile, take Damian's device as gravy is just so important to the smooth flow of pleasure at a star Camp. A DOB can do about anything you can think of, I know from long experience. D. O. B rown😂

What,s this Dai? Colour in a DOB !🥃

Hello Everyone. I have just been informed tonight by Lesley the Galloway Site owner that all 25 pitches are now filled for the next Autumn Star Camp. But please, if you are interested, just telephone Lesley up to book pitches on the hopeful chance that more may become available if the Scottish Government feel that they can relax the Covid rules further in the future. As I said the camp is still 5 months away as yet and a lot can change in that time! Hopefully for the better 😃 Derek

Depending upon the diameter of the pin holes you can often use long nosed pliers in the holes and use a screwdriver slotted between the open jaws of the pliers., or use a spanner across the plier body (not so good). I usually make tools for these type of jobs from steel bar and needle gun pins. Derek

Steel can rust far too easily unless properly prepared. I really would suggest either stainless steel or even brass or aluminium. I suggested the stranded fibre glass compound as it is far easier for most people who are not accustomed to fibre glass repairs to accomplish. U-Pol stranded glass repair compound is easily purchased and only requires the hardener in the correct quantity to set it off. But be sure to prepare all surfaces before starting and have all tools at hand. It will start to harden off very quickly depending how much hardener you use. The ambient temperature can be a big factor. I suggest testing with a small quantity before actually doing the job, just to get your timings correct. The compound is far easier to use than glass matt or stranded matt with liquid resin. If you do go the route I suggest be sure to put a thinish layer of the stranded matt compound on the underneath surface and hold the metal firmly squashed into the compound until set. Then finish with a second layer over the top of the metal and compound forming a sandwich. You can smooth it off with some soapy mixture just as it sets with a leather glove and spatula. Watch your fingers as the glass can go through most things. Once set ( around 10/15 mins ) you can sand it smooth. Anyway hope it all goes well for you. Derek

Looking at your picture of the damage, I would grind off the surface by the wheel and use stranded fibre glass repair. You can also bond a stainless steel plate across the back for added strength under the stranded fibre glass at the same time. Once that is done, I would then repair the outer surface as it will then have some strength and be able to be ground out for the final refinishing. Once accomplished you can sand down to the required level and apply a final correctly coloured gel coat. When dry/hard buff off to give an invisible repair. I have done this several times on Life Boats at sea. Derek

Anonymity !

I will be watching as well. Hadyn also see latest post on GSP thread. Derek

Excellent !! Keep in touch, stay safe, see you hopefully ASAP. Derek

At least someone has read the post 🧐?..........I hope ! It is hard to tell if those it is aimed at are actually reading and digesting the message at times. Rather than skimming through bland white script and possibly missing the important bits. As some one has said Unprecedented Times Derek

Ok Folks, Here is the latest update on the: 2020 Autumn Drumroamin Premier Scottish Star Camp. I have just had a telephone conversation with Lesley Shell the site owner. The situation at present and I stress, present, is that approximately 18 of the camp site pitches have been taken. Lesley thinks that if The Scottish Government allows her to open the site up to visitors, that she will have to allow a fairly large spacing between caravans and tents of around one empty pitch. This will reduce the available pitches to around 25 in total. At present there are about 7 pitches left to book. Bookings are strictly on a first come first get basis! Having said this, please feel free to ring Lesley up and book pitches that may become available, if an Covid19 restrictions are even further lifted, or if someone drops out! (Please if you cannot attend for any reason let Lesley know ASAP. The pitch then becomes open to the next in line.) I know that there are some weather watchers out there and cancel pitches at short notice, this affects us all. If it keeps happening our special arrangement with the site owner may be cancelled. Lesley very kindly keeps these Star Camp weeks completely free from normal none astronomy visitors for our benefit! i.e. dark site rules for us to enjoy the skies and less chance of the possible nefarious activities by some of the general public. Lesley cannot keep losing money each time the weather changes for the worse. And, don't forget even in poor weather we usually have a great Star Camp with plenty of good and pleasant company. ( Whisky/ey) It must be remembered that we are still 5 months away from the start of the Star Camp. A lot can change during this period! So I am proceeding on the hopeful assumption that we will have:- The Scottish Star Camp under pristine skies and of course a Pie and Peas Night ! Small print:- (Subject of course to the "Dual Purpose Dobsonian Pie Measuring Device," being available!) 🤣 So in conclusion if you want to be sure of a place when the Star Camp does get the go ahead, BOOK EARLY, BOOK NOW! Be safe, Be well, Derek

That is something you will have to discuss with the place you hire the van from. At present no one can know what will happen in the future with this Covid pandemic. At present there is still a long way to go before the Star Camp starts. So all we can do is await further developements and hope for the best. Derek

Only when Mike and me ain't there 🤣

Just a reminder for everyone 😃

We hope to see you at the camp site. (I am editing this as I was attempting to answer you on my phone last night.) So anyway, I am sure you will not regret attending the Star Camp as we are a friendly crowd. As many can and will attest, the skies are awe inspiring at Drumroamin and it is a very dark area with wide open vistas. Just be sure that if camping you bring cold weather gear and good boots. You will need a really good tent capable of withstanding bad weather and wind. Don't let this warning put you off. We can go from wind and rain/snow to perfect conditions in a few hours . My first camp there I attended late on just as everyone was leaving. It blew a hoolie. But ! Everyone else had several perfect nights to view/image. The next time we had 7 straight perfect dark nights with fantastically clear night long viewing. Nobody can control the British weather. 🤣 Derek

If you read further back you will see all you have to do to attend the Star Camp, is to ring Lesley at the Drumroamin camp site and book with her. It can't be done any other way. I hope to see you at the Star Camp all being well. I am sure you will like the atmosphere and good company. There is a wealth of help and information available from those attending to help you out on most practice levels. I am still hopeful that we will have a Star Camp 😃 Derek

Welcome to SGL. It is always difficult to buy your first scope because there are so many options out there. I hope you get to enjoy your choice. Derek

I have the SX AO unit. It works fine. I have used it on my NEQ 6, on my EQ8 and on my GM1000. Once set up correctly it tilts the glass until a set point then bumps the mount, resets to centre position starts again. Stars are well controlled. But I have to admit it can be a pain in the butt to get working until you understand it properly. I have found by trial it is certainly not needed with the GM1000. In fact possibly makes things slightly more less focussed to the eye. I hasten to say this was tested with both my WO 132 and Tak 85mm on that mount. It works as Sara has said with Maxim, but I found that if it even clouded overslightly and it lost sight of the guide star, it would send the mount off on a hunt, ruining the sub. I did get PhD working and that was much better. But by that time I was moving on to the 10 Micron. There are too many people who actually have not used an AO unit and who make uninformed judgements. I am not blaming anyone as discussions are a good method of discovering the truth. But one person's pain in the rear may not be another's. The AO unit is expensive and not everyone's cup of tea. To be brutally honest I don,t think I would buy it again, but only because I bought the 10 Micron mount. Derek

Yes I nearly missed an opportunity here. I meant to say better than BARBED WIRE !!! 😈 He He.🤣 Derek

Space junk ! 🤣 Derek

Well I try 🤣 D

Hi and welcome. Don't worry too much as to what others post about your scope. As you say you are just starting. It will be a steep learning curve anyway so take your time and just enjoy what you have at present. In time you may really catch the disease, that is when you will really decide whether it is worth either upgrading or not. Just have fun 😃 Derek

I reckon you are always better off using a 12 volt power source rather than 240 volt. Trouble is the maintenance on batteries and costs involved. Not every one can either afford it or be bothered with the hassle. To be honest if stuck with 240 volt, as long as you always use an RCD (and TEST it each time) you should be OK. Derek

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/nevada-ps-08-6a-8a-regulated-linear-power-supply.html Best option of those suggested I think. A stabilized out put of 13.6 volt output at up to 8 amps. Derek