DaveS

Sunday works for me, though I'd prefer 8 o/c rather than 7.30, but am happy to go with the majority. Ticked Wed as well, for just the occasional mid-week talk.

I'm not sure about the IMX 571 cameras, but when I calibrate my 1600, 183, and even the SX694 I don't use Bias AND Dark, one or the other. The ASI 1600 and 183 absolutely MUST have Darks, but with no amp-glow you may get away without. For the low noise SX 694 I followed Terry's advice and only use Bias. My understanding is that the Dark frame signal also contains the Bias signal, so you end up over correcting, if you add another dose of Bias on top, if that makes sense.

Beautiful location, much more open than mine. I can get M31 easy naked eye, but transparency can make a big difference. Last night I could glimpse it averted vision with the moon high. CO reccons I'm 21.66, so Bortle 4/3

Fabulous image, love the SHO in this one.

There's no need to wrestle with PI, AstroArt 7 can handle your capture, and the latest version has guiding and plate solving, plus is a very underrated image processing package, just not "flavour of the month".

Yep, welcome to the money pit hobby. When the event Horizon telescope took that image, it was actually of my bank balance.

Actually I don't doubt the quality of the images. I have, though, seen from another source a 17" Planewave on their L 500 mount. Now that *is* a beast.

Would have to be Cygnus with its rich MW and all those lovely HII regions. Plus it's my latin namesake.

Not bad, it's less than the kit in my own obsy, but I don't like the look of that pier, a touch wobbly methinks.

The mono QHY268 should be with us in Feb. For a long time my telescope and camera was on a tripod mounted HEQ5, and I brought the OTA and imaging train in together without dismantling them. It takes no longer to set up than if you have a DSLR or OSC.

When I moved from a DSLR I was living in West London and went straight to mono, didn't even pause to consider OSC, just a no-brainer.

Ah, thanks I'd missed the Hyperstar bit. In that case the IDAS NBX might be worth a look.

I'm a mono imager, but I might be thinking of the L-eXtreme Here

I would be thinking of a dual or tri band filter to start with.

And I've spent most of the time since my last post finding, downloading, and installing the software that was killed in the crash. Not finished yet, but will finish it tomorrow when it's light.

I will update this to say that having a basic keyboard, mouse, and monitor available can be more than useful having just broken Windows (And I'm not sure how) and having to do a clean install, losing all my installed software, which cannot be done over remote desktop.

You don't actually need a laptop. I run my rigs remotely with a headless PC, and connect with Windows RDP. You do need to be running win 10 Pro on the remote PC. In my case I save the files to the big NAS drive in the office. When planning the remote installations I ran exterior grad ethernet cables to them from the 24 point switch in the office.

AZ-GTi? Can take power from on board 1.5v cells. With a firmware update it can run in Eq mode as well,

My TG cover is open at the bottom, and I keep a 12V pet warmer on whenever the weather is cold enough for dew. Because it isn't tightly sealed up the air can circulate enough to keep condensation at bay.

You might like to update the thread title. I was expecting a monster new Canon lens, 50 inch f/1.4 .

Can't argue with that. A very nice SHO Heart nebula.

I don't have a fork, but my DDMs are very sensitive to balance , to the point that they have to be balanced around all three axes, I think your lx200 might need the same .

Interesting, this which I've just seen. When I specc'd my current (Old) tower I had two cards, as I was running DaVinci Resolve, which needed (Possibly still does, haven't checked) two cards, one for the display (I used a Quadro 600) and one for the heavy video stuff, (A GeForce 570, I think). Wondering of Star Tools (Or any other package) has caught up with Blackmagic yet.

You'll also need to match your Dark frame temperature to the light frame temp.

Are you taking separate Darks for each sub length? With both 30 sec and 60 sec subs you will need to stack each separately with their own Darks and combine them later. Also, I've found that using Bias and Dark together with CMOS can stuff up the calibration. Calibrate with Flats, Dark Flats and Darks for lights, but no Bias.