tooth_dr

So...I need to be imaging with a ~15um pixel size to get 'nicer looking' stars. Seems like my £1500 was well spent.

A very very impressive set of captures, thanks for sharing.

Reducing x 3 in size, is that the same as binning 3x3?

I don’t have so much an issue with the 2600MC. It may need a fine tune. But I still don’t think the stars look ok in your image

I’ll be honest and say yes I bought it specifically for its claims of sharp stars at 44mm. I may use the 2600MC on it mostly but wanted the option for full frame imaging.

The colour is around 50mb too. My 36mp DSLR raw files are 77mb.

I bought the 94EDPH 0.8x reducer, to go with the 94EDPH scope https://www.365astronomy.com/sharpstar-2.5-0.8x-reducer-and-flattener-for-full-frame-cameras-for-sharpstar-94edph-telescope-m48-camera-connection.html

No takers?! I posted on cloudy nights and was advised to stop it down to 80mm. Hoping to get alternative views here.

I have a QHY268M ordered, should be here next week. The decision was influenced by availability and by cost, and by reputation of both vendor (MA) and QHY. I already own QHY cameras so I trust the brand. If the ZWO had been available when I ordered the QHY and was the same price as the QHY then I may would have chosen the ZWO. However I dont like to invest too much in one brand, and prefer to have a variety of cameras, scopes etc. I recently bought a ZWO2600MC, and was specifically after a matching mono camera for a dual rig.

Here are some recent images using the SS94 and the dedicated 94 0.8x FF. Currently I have the spacing set to 55mm using ZWO spacers that came with the 2600MC. I think the stars look not quite right. With the FF Nikon, the situation is worse. I've tried 55mm (that is with the standard T-adapter) but have also increased the spacing incrementally to 57mm. I noticed them some degradation in the shapes increasing the spacing further. For transparency, I have been in touch with vendor, and have been told that this astigmatism is inherent to the design of the system, and that apart from trying different spacing or using software to correct it, then there is no other remedy. I dont want to be obsessed with the minutiae of star shapes, so any input would be appreciated, but i am conscious that the total outlay for the scope and flattener was £1497+ postage. Thanks Adam.

I'll take two

In my case I mean just as long per charge. I still have them with no complaints.

I have experience with the ZWO brand for guidecams. I started with a 120MM then went to a 290MM. Both worked great with a finderscope but the later really excels with an OAG.

I still often take a photo of my dome at night, the novelty hasn’t worn off yet 🤷‍♂️🙈 Even the Ha filter struggled here.

My experience has been the same as this, the no name spurious batteries lasted as long or longer than the genuine brand. Perhaps you got a bad example?

I packed my kit away for about 6-7 years, and then in 2017 I just got the bug again. If you can hold onto it for a while then that might be the best plan. I had a few items - cameras particularly - that dated badly over the time I stored them and became virtually worthless!

A really good job. The stars are really great, with lots of colour down to the centre. A really delicate touch overall with the processing. That Nikon is a really dark horse, and is used very successfully by other members on here too. The only really minor thing I can say is that the overall colour of the galaxies is a little pale, but that could be easily fixed.

Just swopped over to Ha after MF. This is a single 300s subs at gain 100, with a 2" Baader 7nm filter in a ZWO filter drawer

I know! I just seemed to have run into most of your problems at one stage or another.

I haven’t used DSS as main stacking software since I moved to APP but I do recall it only lets you use the files once. Can you try to rename the flats - copy and paste all the flats that you want to use in several groups into separate folders named group 1, group 2 etc. In group 1 folder highlight all flat files using control + A and right click to rename the first file. Change it to ‘group 1’. This will then name all the files ‘group 1’ followed by a number in brackets eg ‘group 1(1)’ Repeat for group 2 and so on. Now try loading these into each group in DSS

Thanks Goran. I did use darks, dark flats, bias and flats! That is my usual routine but I am not sure if this is correct with the CMOS cameras. I know bias can change and be unstable? I didnt have enough data to really make a serious effort on the processing, if I get more I'll experiment with the calibration data. Tonights forecast is clear, but with a hefty moon. I might try anyway unfiltered, as my NBZ filter hasn't arrived yet, or maybe I should put an Ha filter into the holder?

Open up Skyview in Sitech control box and click on the moon on the sky map, there it gives you the option to ‘track object’ and thus will do it at lunar rate rather than sidereal

https://fireballs.imo.net/imo_view/event/2021/345 https://fireballs.imo.net/members/imo_view/report/220527

Thanks Richard. I used it on 100 gain. There recommendations for both, so I'll maybe try 0 next time.

Thanks Andy. I should definitely write up a bit about it. Stars aren’t good with a full frame sensor, certainly not at the correct 55mm spacing for the reducer. I’ve gradually increased the distance to 57mm, which has improved things but the stars are still triangular. I’d say the focuser is also not great. It came setup loose such that it would unwind itself under the weight of a camera and EFW. I adjusted the tension but now there is springiness to the slow motion control. The shaft where the slow motion control attaches doesn’t have a flat area so if the focuser is tensioned for heavy kit it simply spins on the shaft and doesn’t move the focuser because the screw that holds the knob had nothing to bite onto. I’ve fitted a deepskydad AF3 motor focuser to it and this has allowed me to set it up better. But without this, it’s not a great focuser to be honest