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Corpze

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Everything posted by Corpze

  1. Corpze
    Well thats for sure, i need to do the same thing with my astronomy clubs 12" dobs every singel time i look at them 😛 Have you tried to collimate your scope (with the laser hitting the center dot perfectly) - released the collimator - and then re-clamped the collimator and looked at where the laser hits the center dot? Thats where I had prolems with my hotech - the second time i tightened the collimator, the laser dot wasn't in the center dot. I tried this many times and got very unconsistent results, unfortunately, because i loved how easy it was to use. /Daniel
  2. Corpze
    Hi, I am just corious if you have tried to clamped and "re-clamped" the collimator and got the same result - I had this 2" Hotech collimator and did not get consistent results. I believe this is due the rubber rings that might some how shift the clamping. (having a starlight feathertouch focuser, I really hope that the focuser is not the problem) I realy like the idea of the clamping method but in my opinion, it falls short over its non consistent clamping, making the laser dot move from one clamping to another. /Daniel
  3. Corpze
    it is, and they have clearly taken a step from the amateur market, which is understandable with all new manufacturers and the competition going on in that segment. I think the "cheapest" mount from ASA is the DDM 100 with a price of around 23.000 Euros.... quite steep. I really hope they will keep supporting the software and the older mounts for a while though 😮 /Daniel
  4. Corpze
    Made a video of my work horse - I don't see to many threads on the forums or any videos on youtube so I thought that i might make one. I have no partnership with ASA or anything, just wanna give my 50 cents on how this works and how I set it up. In conclusion - it is a fantastic mount that I never thought I come by, but it has been fantastic (not all the time, the manual was terrible a couple of years ago) and the gauding accuracy is amazing, which is why you wanna buy one of theese. /Daniel
  5. Corpze
    So, the question weather the SX FW back plate holding the camera flexing or not has been running around in my head, so i decided to measure the flex... Spoiler - It is probably good to go. I also pushed the button for a new camera... I think it will be a good choise for me https://youtu.be/jPklF0Gl2BA
  6. Corpze
    It should be the same, but it might be a difference on how they measure it and possibly the driver / read out mode which might have an impact - not sure though... Yes they are several IMX571 cameras coming out.. Altair and also Moravian C3 and C3+ but they have some gaps in their data... about half of the specs is on their website... no data on buffer size and dark current etc.
  7. Corpze
    Thank you so much for the input. I am thinking that i will use the SX adapters to directly couple the camera (if it will be QHY or ZWO, I haven't decided yet) No spacers or anything, and according to calculators online, the distance between the filters and the chip is ok regards to vignetting. The backplate on the SX FW might be rigid enough or it won't, i guess it has to be trail and error before i buy a new FW... I made a video regarding my choise of brand... this isn't easy guys
  8. Corpze
    So, are there any out there who has gotten their hands on these cameras yet? Still haven't decided which one to choose. + for the QHY is the extended full well modes + for the slightly cheaper price - is lack of USB hub and the weight + for the ZWO is the HUB and the weight - for the price - for the lack of extended full well modes - BUT, is this possible to change via a firmware/driver update? I love my SX filterwheel so I am keeping that, and the adapters are attached and screwed from the outside, which QHY FW is not... so, each time I need to adjust the camera, i need to open the FW cover... The ZWO FW looks not dust and lightproof enough in their adaptation of the camera / corrector /Daniel
  9. Corpze
    Nice work with your method Nebula! I do how ever have noticed on three different laser (cheap "china" laser, hotech and Howie Glatter) that it is a HUGE difference in how reliable they are. The hotech beeing the worst of theese three according to me, and the howie glatter with the tublug is very well made and Solid as a rock. /Daniel
  10. Corpze
    If you have compiled the exact code, and connected everything according to the code, try to hold the button pushed down for a couple of seconds... it is a timer function in the code that might need to run first. /Daniel
  11. Corpze
    Yep, a lot of money, for sure... But a SX lodestar is 570 Eur and a polemaster 340 Eur plus adapter rings at 45 Eur... So it depends of what you compare it to i guess... Still a lot of money though. *I do had the lodestar X2 myself, a truly kick ass guide camera! /Daniel
  12. Corpze
    Will this new camera revloutionize the astro photography? By the looks of it - it would gick the polemaster a tough competitor, and that is just the beginning! I browsed the internet and discovered this new camera, but it looks to be quite a work horse. The company sais it is wokring with "AI", has multi star guiding, can do polar align for you and also plate solve. I made a video, covering the main features which it is supposed to have. I need to have my eye on this company in the future /Daniel
  13. Corpze
    Thank you for the kind words
  14. Corpze
    Made a new video, this is a Astro Systeme Austria specific video, which has direct driven servo motors. To get them to perform perfectly and be able to track unguided, you have to tune theese motors. I made a quick video of how the three different methods is working in the "Autoslew" software to run theese mounts. Maybe this method of tuning mount motors is related to other brands which has direct driven mounts? Best regards / Daniel
  15. Corpze
    You have absolutely right, totally forgot about that part (which some might find useful) Might just do another video covering that part /Daniel
  16. Corpze
    Hi, I have recently bought and mounted a third version of a weather monitoring station, this time a non DIY product - The Lunatico AAG Cloudwatcher and the Solo computer with it. I have been running a weather monitor for five years now, but because i lack front-end coding (or hasn't taken the time learning it) I have been looking for a out-of-the-box product which presents the data in a nice way. The difference between this product and the two other models I have made earlier is the raspberry pi and the webserver capability. The earlier versions hade the capability to output a "safe" or "not safe" command to my sequence program. This version from lunatico has the capability to output a folder in my network with a boltwood textfile, or direct via ASCOM. So far, i have been running this for two weeks now and it is working very nice. The data is presented on a webpage very nice and it has 100% uptime as of now. Just one time, the cloud temperature has been presented wrong, this happend during a weather change from +2 degrees celsius and overcast to about -10 degree celsius with clear sky in a matter in a couple of hours. please feel free to comment and ask questions /Daniel
  17. Corpze
    Yea, probably should have done that, but the first minutes, I am just quickly covering how to do it on "regular" mounts, but the main part is about the DDM, for sure. I do not think that the Autoslew software is compatible with other mounts than ASA though. /Daniel
  18. Corpze
    I have read a couple of threads when it comes to direct driven mounts, and one of the most frequent questions asked is how to balace a direct driven mount, in my case a ASA DDM85. - So i made one where i show the basics and how sensitive it is, but a breeze to do when using the software provided. /Daniel You can find the video here:
  19. Corpze
    That looks really useful when out in the field! (and cool) /Daniel
  20. Corpze
    I totally agree with what u guys are saying, easy to use and perfect results
  21. Corpze
    Not my intention to hi jack the thread, but I made a video on how I am using the concenter eyepiece, and also try to explain in PowerPoint how to move the secondary mirror in order to get it properly aligned. Here is the video:
  22. Corpze
    I am satisfied with my eyepiece, but as you describes the Visus, i am eager to try that one out myself I have also seen that my version is available with a luminous ring also.
  23. Corpze
    This looks like a nice step forward, the only remark I have on the "original" concenter eyepiece is exactly that this new version might solve - It is a bit difficult to hold the eye in the correct position so that the circles is exactly in the middle of the visual center.
  24. Corpze
    Hi, I know that there has been a couple of threads on how to collimate a newtonian, more specific, how to center the secondary mirror under the focuser.I bought mine "Concenter eyepiece" for almost a year ago and can't praise it enough - it makes centering the secondary a breeze.Have anyone else tried this? What is your opinion?I have also read that some have questions of how accurate it is? - I might not know the answer to this question, but what I do know is that after I have been centering the secondary with the Concenter eyepiece, I finish of the collimation with the Catseye XLKP and Blackcat. The small adjustments I have to make of the secondary after adjusting it with the Concenter eyepiece tells me it is very accurate. It is just the absolute finest adjustments i have to make afterwards.I have made a video of how it works and how it looks like when I am collimating my scope. (10" f3,4 astrograph)Best regards, Daniel
  25. Corpze
    No unfortunately, the Freqmeasure.h library uses the pin 8 for a arduino hardware timer and frequenze measurments. But - i am fairly sure that the LCD sheild uses pin 8 as a reset function, you can assign that function (reset function) to another pin, not 100% sure but 95%. /Daniel
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