CraigT82

Thanks for that very useful info. So if I design the holes into the drawing of the part, would the slicer software add the infill wall around the hole? Or would I need to design that hole wall into the initial model? If I planned the holes for tapping, how much smaller does the designed hole need to be? Say for a M5 tap would the initial hole want to be 3mm? 4mm? Cheers

That’s a great image for the scope size, nice work. I don’t use a bhat or any kind of aid for focusing. Just do it by eye and looking at the screen whilst going back and forth through the focus point. It’s difficult when seeing is poor as the planetary detail you’re looking for on the screen is hard to see. When seeing is good it’s much easier.

On a 3D printed focuser base (newt), for the holes to mount the focuser to the base, would it be better to drill/tap the four M5 holes? Or would it be better to use threaded inserts? Base material is PLA. cheers

This looks like a tidal tail, but unbelievably long?

Yeah shadow transits are a pain to deal with when derotating, and so are the moons themselves but to a lesser extent. This is due to the orbital velocity of the moons being different to the rotational velocity of Jupiter. I’m not aware of any workaround other than performing a cosmetic fix in post (I.e. copy a section of the planet’s disc with the shadow from a single stack and paste it into the correct location on the derotated image, or something like that). Hopefully someone might be able to offer a better workaround, I’d be very interested to learn too.

Lovely, my favourite time of day

Beautiful image

Fab capture, lovely banding and colour on the globe, not much to criticise about that at all!

When you say the rest what do you mean? If you mean deep sky objects (DSO: galaxies and nebula) then yes they are usually grey smudges in even large amateur telescopes.

I agree with the others, though at first glance I thought the second was a bit overcooked, when looking at them side by side the second has more detail and features visible especially in the outer shell. Really nice work!

Yeah… three support arms = 6 spikes There are a fainter set of spikes offset from the brightest, wonder if the spacecraft rotated during exposure?

I really hope that casing is earthed?!

Certainly looks like it to me, is it looking north? If so then I'd say yes for sure.

Plug your info into here to check what size cable you need (but I think you'll need at least 2.5mm2 cable): https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/voltage-drop-calculator.html Something like this would probably do, along with the connectors shown above by fifeskies https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/tinned-twin-round-cable-2-x-2-5mm/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=4972&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvxCq638yF2NZ2g_lwBokdvKjoqt_Btx4Br1dtHEuyue02E_Ymd-pvsaArRWEALw_wcB Add in a bit of heatshrink and Bob's yer uncle

Welcome Claus. We do have another Danish member (that I know of - there may be more) @Victor Boesen

Yeah there is a mask you can print out to put over the mirror, there are segments to cut out of the mask and you move the tester back and forth to illuminate the different segments and note the displacement of the tester, those measurements you can then enter into a spreadsheet to give you quantified errors on the mirror ( I bought a cheap dial indicator with magnetic stand for this) . Again never got round to actually doing it, mainly because I needed a much longer bench to do my 12” mirror!

Nice 👍🏼. I had a go at making one last year using a cheap eBay cross slide never got around to using it… was thinking of checking my 300p mirror to see if it was worth having it refigured. How and where did you mount your camera Mark?

Very nice! Be interesting to see what features are visible, have you tried identifying any of the modules?

Depends what you wanna do with it. Two very different beasts, a bit like asking for opinions on a Ford Transit Vs Ford Fiesta. RASA can’t be used visually, only photographic. Very fast though at F/2 and sucks up photons like nothing else. Will produce nice images in minutes rather than hours. It is a wide field scope though and suitable for larger DSO. Not the best for galaxy or small planetary Neb imaging. Not for planetary or lunar imaging due to short focal length and optics are not diffraction limited. Edge is more versatile, can be used visually or photographically at F/10 native, F/6.3 with reducer or even faster (but not visual) with a hyperstar accessory so can do wide field images. Good on galaxies and smaller DSO if mount up to it. Great for planetary and lunar imaging.

With my Alt-Az mount which uses the synscan v4 handset you have to start from a set position: The scope pointing north and the tube horizontal, not sure if that is the same for the GoTo Dobs?

Wow… I don’t think I’ve ever seen a combo of fine detail and wide field quite like that. Simply beautiful 😍

Those are great Neil, was this with the 462c? Is the second image the same capture as the first but with different processing? Sky looks darker on that one and I think it has a teeny bit more detail in the N polar hood. Bodes well for later on the year.

Really nice and smooth image, I like that you haven’t been tempted to make the flame more yellow like a lot of people do ( including myself!)

Fab image, really well done. I like the walk through of the processing on your website too (great site btw)