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About Mark1489

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    Pontarddulais, Wales, UK
  1. I went for an Orion wide field with the Samyang recently, it was difficult for me to get the processing right and could do with more data but here it is!
  2. Had a go at Orion’s Belt and the surrounding area with my unmodded Nikon D5300, it does make me wonder how much Ha I missed out on when I compare my image to those taken with a modded camera! Had to go with 30s subs since my star adventurer is not doing well lately at all. Happy with what’s shown up, there’s a lot more dust in there but stretching it revealed too much noise for my liking, would probably like to double the integration to 3 hours for that but the Welsh weather says no! Nikon D5300, Samyang 135mm @ f2.8 Iso 800 181x30s ~ 1h30m total exposure time
  3. Had a quick window of opportunity last night on M42, the moon was out so not ideal but I was bored of waiting I used Iso 400 and 30 sec sub frames, stacked 12 and got this!
  4. Hi Adam! I really like your Orion Nebula, it looks very natural! I’ve noticed in your sub screenshot that it’s an 8 bit image, I’m not familiar with your camera but try shooting at 12 or 14bit if possible! That should capture greater detail per sub
  5. Definitely going to do a test next time and take some exposures just changing the iso and nothing else, while equalising all the exposures in processing! Yes very interesting read! The only reason I bumped the iso higher was to gain clear separation from the left, I image under 21.2 or 21.7 skies mostly so there’s some light pollution but not a lot. My next target is the Orion Nebula so a perfect example to test the extended dynamic range of a lower iso
  6. Hi, After a lot of reading I think I understand the iso invariance of some cameras, that being using a lower iso and boosting the exposure in post processing will not increase the image noise, and a greater dynamic range is produced (please correct me if I’m wrong). How do I apply this in a practical sense? I have a Nikon D5300 and the data points towards ISO 200 as the sweet spot. Now obviously if I expose for my usual sub frame length (1 minute) my histogram is going to be up against the left, I guess what I’m trying to ask is how do I know if I’m clipping data at this point? I’ve always used the histogram clear of the left edge technique to properly expose my images, but it seems this wouldn’t work if I’m using a lower ISO. Anyone have any ideas how I should go ahead with this? Thanks Mark
  7. I’ve found that the focus is extremely critical, tiny movements have changed the elongated stars in my corners/switched the bad corners. To be honest I crop most of it out but I’m lazy!
  8. Hi Dave Thanks, makes sense! I use the camera histogram yes, are you saying that I could possibly use a lower iso without clipping data? Would there be any way of getting a RAW histogram showing somehow out in the field? I’ve read the sweet spot for the D5300 is ISO 200 or 400 which is obviously a fair bit lower than what I’m using. Mark
  9. Hi all, My local imaging site is SQM 21.2 Bortle 4, with my gear I can get 60 sec exposures reliably, I use ISO 1600 to get my histogram just clear of the left side. My dilemma is that I want to travel to a nearby site which is SQM 21.8 Bortle 2 but with my gear I think I’ll need to use ISO 3200 to get separation from the left. How much is the reduction in dynamic range going to effect my images? Does lower dynamic range reduce the amount of faint detail I’m going to be able to capture? I use a Nikon D5300.
  10. 00:24:43, 26/8/19, 60 seconds
  11. Hi everyone, I wasn't sure where to post this, mods feel free to move if its in the wrong place! Was looking through my subs of Andromeda and came across this.....is it a meteor? Or something else? Pretty new to imaging so not sure what it is! Mark
  12. Cheers, I’ve been using a 3D printed bahtinov mask for the Samyang that I bought online which does help things, though I tend to get elongation of stars in one corner if the focus is slightly out, suppose it’s what you get with fast optics! I’ve been trying to experiment focusing in different areas instead of the image centre but I think I need to be able to fine tune! A manual micro focuser would do me fine, I like to keep things simple haha! You’re right, BY Eos/Nikon is great! Very kind of you to say, thank you! I am very pleased! Looking forward to seeing more of your images, they’re inspiring me! Mark
  13. Thank you! I’m using a Star Adventurer, Unguided. Still need to pin down the focus better, may have to invest in a micro focuser!
  14. First go at Andromeda! Nikon D5300, ISO 1600, 53 x 60 secs @f2.8
  15. Hi David First off, great images! I’m using a Samyang 135mm camera lens. I’d love to spend on a mono setup with a refractor - maybe one day. The lens has a hood but I still get stray light entering on one side. Really annoying since when I moved in the developer had not connected the lights and I had dark skies on my patio! I’m 40 minutes away from bortle 3/2 skies so I may just bite the bullet and put up with the drive!
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