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How Do I Mount My DSLR on a Telescope?

G2EWS

By G2EWS
in Imaging - Discussion

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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Hi Guys,

Please don't shoot me down in flames, I just cannot find anything about this. I know it is obvious to you, but not to me - yet!!

So assuming I have bought my kit which includes a Skywatcher Evostar 100ED DS-Pro Outfit with EQ6 and GOTO and Skywatcher Synguider Autoguider then a Skywatcher Startravel 80 OTA.

So I have all this, now I want to put my DSLR on to take some photos. So how the heck do you do this. I can see threads talking about taking photos and the results and filters, but nowhere can I find how to physically get the two together.

Thanks again for your help.

Regards

Chris

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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Hi, very nice kit. Give the guys at FLO a buzz they will not only be able to tell you but also supply what you need.

This is the list of kit that has been suggested on the forum which I will be buying off FLO once I have seen a bit and done a bit!

Just trying to get my head around how to connect the Nikon's!

Strange isn't it, you guys probably all know how simple it is, but me I have no idea :)

I have ordered 'Making Every Photon Count' and guess Steve has details in there. But in the mean time, I am reading these threads about taking shots but have no idea how it works!

Best regards

Chris

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russ

russ

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Which DSLR do you have?

FLO sell the MaxDSLR adapter for Canon, Nikon and Pentax. This would allow you to attach one of those camera brands directly into the focuser. Here it is:

Adaptors - Max DSLR Camera Adaptor

Failing that you can buy a T-adapter for any brand camera and then buy a 2" nosepiece with T-thread. Such as this:

Adaptors - FLO 2-inch T mount camera adapter

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russ

russ

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This is the list of kit that has been suggested on the forum which I will be buying off FLO once I have seen a bit and done a bit!

Just trying to get my head around how to connect the Nikon's!

Strange isn't it, you guys probably all know how simple it is, but me I have no idea :)

I have ordered 'Making Every Photon Count' and guess Steve has details in there. But in the mean time, I am reading these threads about taking shots but have no idea how it works!

Best regards

Chris

Ah right, it's for a Nikon. You just need the MaxDSLR adapter for the Nikon:

Adaptors - Max DSLR Camera Adaptor

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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Hi All,

Thank you very much guys. It all makes sense now.

The photo is perfect themos. Amazing how obvious it is when you see it layed out!

I have a Nikon D3X and D3S so both heavy beasts but hopefully the EQ6 will take it!

Otherwise I also have a Pansonic GF1 which could be used.

Best regards

Chris

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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Hi Billy,

You are trying to confuse me again!!!

So what does the focuser do apart from focus? I guess why and where is it needed would be a better question.

You guessed the next question!! What is a flattener/reducer?

Best regards

Chris

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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EQ6 won't have any trouble at all with that setup. :)

You may find the Panasonic a touch noisy with long exposures, especially compared to the Nikon's.

Hi Russ,

I will stick with the 25mp D3X that should cut out the noise!

I keep reading of people turning the ISO up. I cannot get my head around that if you are taking long exposures. However, bearing in mind that I am only taking on board every other word, I may have read it totally wrong :)

Best regards

Chris

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russ

russ

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Hi Russ,

I will stick with the 25mp D3X that should cut out the noise!

I keep reading of people turning the ISO up. I cannot get my head around that if you are taking long exposures. However, bearing in mind that I am only taking on board every other word, I may have read it totally wrong :)

Best regards

Chris

You need to crank up the ISO to capture as much detail as you can in a short space of time, at least when starting out and only messing around with shorter exposures (30secs to a couple of minutes max). But you capture as many exposures as possible of the same thing and then stack them to remove the noise. It will all become clear as you start getting into it.

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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You need to crank up the ISO to capture as much detail as you can in a short space of time, at least when starting out and only messing around with shorter exposures (30secs to a couple of minutes max). But you capture as many exposures as possible of the same thing and then stack them to remove the noise. It will all become clear as you start getting into it.

Hi Russ,

I see. So the D3S would be a better bet then I reckon!

Regards

Chris

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G2EWS

G2EWS

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The focuser can flex, droop or slip if it aint "man enough" for the job...

Heavier cameras benefit from more substantial focusers...

I would also look to mount the camera using threaded adaptors rather than "push fit ones"...

Billy...

Hi Billy,

So does the Max adaptor have screw fit? Just trying to see on the photo and script.

Regards

Chris

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Psychobilly

Psychobilly

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Nope it will mount on the camera and give you a 2" push fit...

Generally for astro photography you want all your "connections" to be as solid and ridgid as possible with no chance of introducing rotation. misalignment etc...

Just my 2p worth but I probably havent got a clue about any of this...

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LukeSkywatcher

LukeSkywatcher

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I just took ownership of a T-ring and 1.25" mount adapter yesterday and already i have attached my 450D to a small 70mm refractor scope to take a few day time test shots.

I am impressed.

I consider myself as a visual astronomer but i am slowly being seduced by the imaging side of things.

I have a 90EQ refrac and i am thinking of adding a dual axis motor to it to allow me to image longer and better with it.

Would the standard dual axis motor thingie on an EQ1 mount (i think) allow me to do some good AP?

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msinclairinork

msinclairinork

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Hi Paul,

I am NO expert but i think the EQ1 might be a little hard pushed for serious AP, but you might be ok for some really short eposures ie 10-20seconds.

I have been using an CG5 or EQ5's twin and basic RA/DEC motors and have managed upto 2mins but usualy stick to a safer 60sec, so going by the fact that the CG5 is a good bit more sturdy than a EQ1 i would expect that super short stuff will be your limmit.

But saying that you can still have some fun with brighter targets such as M42 at short exposures.

Good luck the both of you in your endevour to the dark side :)

Michael

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davew

davew

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Hi Chris,

I've come back to the thread to see how you're getting on. I should have taken more time with my answer. I should have laboured the bit " If you want a 2" push in ". They have a larger throat and take 2" filters. The T2 are smaller. Not what you want with a Full Frame camera.

Billy is correct about rigid connections if you can. You won't get away from the looser Nikon F mount but you won't with any DSLR.

If you are getting your stuff from FLO, ask them about the reducer/flattener used with the scope of your choice and it's connections.

My scope takes a " Wide T mount ". Bit of a one off though.

Dave.

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jgs001

jgs001

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I just took ownership of a T-ring and 1.25" mount adapter yesterday and already i have attached my 450D to a small 70mm refractor scope to take a few day time test shots.

I am impressed.

I consider myself as a visual astronomer but i am slowly being seduced by the imaging side of things.

I have a 90EQ refrac and i am thinking of adding a dual axis motor to it to allow me to image longer and better with it.

Would the standard dual axis motor thingie on an EQ1 mount (i think) allow me to do some good AP?

Paul, I'd suggest a second thread, but realistically, with an eq1, you're looking widefield stuff (50mm focal length and shorter). It works as a poor mans astrotrac just about. I reckon 2 to 3 minutes at 50mm is workable (from experience), longer with shorter focal length, and obviously shorter with longer. Not sure I'd want to go beyond about 100 to 150mm with an EQ1.

Back to the OP

I use a MaxDSLR with my Celestron refractor, and it works, but you have to make sure all the connections are as tight as possible, or you'll get a slight sag on the camera, shifting one edge of the sensor off the plane of focus, not much, you can't see it, but it's there in the images. So if you can, as has been suggested a decent screw mount fitting of some sort is a better way to go as the camera will be held square (unless there's something else that causes sagging of course :))

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