Flocking

[Glider]

The stuff from johninderby is what I used, as suggested by red dwalf and it has worked perfectly so far. I was advised to run a bead of super glue down the edges and have had no peeling so even when it rained into the OTA one night!

[sbooder]

Looks good Simon

I was going to use this one but was recomended this instead :Fablon - Black Velour

It is the first time i have flocked a scope, but found it ok. The only scarey bit for me was taking the primary out because that was a first for me also .

I see you flocked the back plate, do many people do this or is it not necessary?

P.S. would be interested to see how youres fares during the winter for the stickyness and moulding.

Cheers,

Mark.

Hi Mark,

I am not sure that flocking the back plate was that important, but I went mad, I even flocked the inside of my finder scope. If you can though, do flock the inside of your focuser tube as far up as your longest eyepiece/adapter reaches, which ever flocking material you use.

Because so many of us have used different materials/brands to flock, it would be good to keep this thread going as a flocking update , to keep folks abreast of how they are performing.

[callisto]

Thanks for the reply Simon,

I think i will flock the base plate as the primary is still out of the tube.

I agree with you also to keep an eye on these materials to see how they fair over time.

Cheers,

Mark

[yesyes]

Isn't there some matt finish black spray paint that could be used instead of these flocking sheets? I'd imagine it would be a lot easier to spray it on, especially inside the draw tube...

[sbooder]

I think the problem with even the most matt of black paints is they still reflect.

See the difference in this photo below, where the light reflected off the paint just stops dead at the flock.

[yesyes]

I see....

That photo really shows it very well... thanks!

[sbooder]

Its funny, but I did not even notice it at the time. I only took the photo to record the flocking process. I suppose the sunlight gave such a stark contrast.

[MikeWilson]

How much flocking material would I need for a 6" Newt?

[Moonshane]

hi Mike

the calculation is 3.14 x diameter of tube (NOT mirror size) x length of OTA

so in inches eg (I think) in your case 3.14 x 7 x 30 = 660 square inches

[MikeWilson]

Thanks Moonshine! There I was thinking OTA diameter = mirror diameter!

[sbooder]

Flocking Update

As promised here is my first report on the http://www.abmshop.co.uk/self-adhesive-flock-material-8-c.asp performance on my Orion GX250.

So far very good, I was very concerned about how the glue would react to this very cold weather, but it seems not to be affected at all (yet).

It also appears to have the property of insulating the scope to a degree. As many of you will have noticed, it is a little cold out there at the moment, and ice is forming on everything, from OTA to mount and dew shield, but the inside of my newt is soft and dry.

I really can recommend this stuff for flocking, and works out at a good price, even with the expensive postage.

[sixela]

Isn't there some matt finish black spray paint that could be used instead of these flocking sheets? I'd imagine it would be a lot easier to spray it on, especially inside the draw tube...

Some people do use something similar to this for flocking, but then you need something to texture the paint (usually not sand as it tends to stick together, but things like very small wood shavings, something of which you usually have a large supply if you have a router).

Flat black paint without texture is never black at low angles. Flocking paper and textured paints work in this case because every bit of surface tends to be in the shadow of something else; consider it a form of microscopic baffling.

[sixela]

Hi Mark,

I am not sure that flocking the back plate was that important,

It is. But a cell made out of a solid piece of wood or metal is usually not that good for other reasons: it prevents the mirror from cooling properly by restricting the airflow aorund the mirror.

Usually you want to expose as much of the back of the mirror as possible while still retaining a structure for your support points, and also a ring baffle to prevent light from entering the scope from the back where there isn't a mirror to stop it. Unless you have forced ventilation, then you close everything off except for the fan intake (or outlet depending on fan direction).

Closed design:

Open design:

[mojocvh]

Hi folks. I'm seriously wanting to improve on my stock C8sct and have been looking around for material to flock both it ,my dew shield and secondary holder with.

However I have just seen this video and wonder if anyone knows if/where it is available in the UK?

thanks for your time

Mo.

[sbooder]

I have heard tell that this stuff can have a tendency to roll away which means it could potentially hit the primary. As I say this is just hearsay, but I might avoid it.

[mojocvh]

I have heard tell that this stuff can have a tendency to roll away which means it could potentially hit the primary. As I say this is just hearsay, but I might avoid it.

Hmm, if you apply a small amount of contact adhesive, once it's in situ, to lock both joints into place it's still got to be more user friendly than a self adhesive strip or a felt that both sheds fibers and soaks up moisture though...

[sbooder]

Hmm, if you apply a small amount of contact adhesive, once it's in situ, to lock both joints into place it's still got to be more user friendly than a self adhesive strip or a felt that both sheds fibers and soaks up moisture though...

Not at all, I found no problem with the self adhesive type on either my 10" or my Uncles 16". No problem with damp or peeling, no problem with mould or mildew, it is cracking stuff. Plus how heavy is a rubber backed flock going to be, the bigger the scope the heavier it will get?

[argonaut]

I have heard tell that this stuff can have a tendency to roll away which means it could potentially hit the primary. As I say this is just hearsay, but I might avoid it.

I have just moved away from the self adhesive Protostar and started using the thinner flocking board. It's so much easier. The sheet does not roll away if you butt joint it and don't overlap it. It takes a little more time to do but well worth it.

I 've just used it on refractor tubes from 150mm down to 90mm,no problems. I even used it on a Baader Skysurfer III to stop reflections. That was around 30mm ID.

If anyone is stuck for some I have 3 rolls of the adhesive backed stuff.

BTW,the flocking board is so good that I don't baffle tubes any longer. The contrast is excellent.

[sbooder]

Well, I think I will stick with the self adhesive stuff, I am not putting anything that is not stuck next to my mirror, it just sounds like asking for trouble to me.

[theodore]

I always use Fablon black velour. Its black as hell and easy to put in - cut into strips if you have trouble doing it in one go. I've done four scopes with it and its never come off. You can get it cheapest off fleabay, or from most habidashers. I think that 'astronomy' flocking is an overpriced gimmick.

I read somewhere - I think it was on cloudynights forums - a guy did tests with astronomy flocking and Fablon and the Fablon was better (I say Fablon but its usually the cheaper equivalent - just as good though).

Theo

[Gina]

Same old story - mention "astronomical" and it's immediately applied to the price!

[mojocvh]

Well, I think I will stick with the self adhesive stuff, I am not putting anything that is not stuck next to my mirror, it just sounds like asking for trouble to me.

As I said above a small amount of contact adhesive will overcome that problem.

Each to their own I guess.