T thread for a camera to a 1.25

[gamermole]

Hello all,my telescope takes 1.25 eye pieces and I'm currently looking for a t thread adapter so I can attach a DSLR camera straight to it. 

I thought it may be just a simple adapter to buy but upon searching they have titles like "Reducer With Filter Thread" and "RVO T Thread Extension With 1.25" Eyepiece Holder" 

Could anyone point me in the direction of a cheap T thread adapter.

[Cornelius Varley]

8 hours ago, gamermole said:

Hello all,my telescope takes 1.25 eye pieces and I'm currently looking for a t thread adapter so I can attach a DSLR camera straight to it. 

I thought it may be just a simple adapter to buy but upon searching they have titles like "Reducer With Filter Thread" and "RVO T Thread Extension With 1.25" Eyepiece Holder" 

Could anyone point me in the direction of a cheap T thread adapter.

What telescope do you have ? In one of your other threads you mention a Skymax 127. The short tube attached to the rear of the telescope should have a male thread onto which you can attach a t adapter.

Or https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-1-25-inch-t-mount-camera-nosepiece-adapter.html .

Be aware that some telescopes (newtonians) might not reach focus without a Barlow lens and refractors might need an extension tube.

[gamermole]

I do have the skymax 127 will this need anything to achieve focus do you know?

[Cornelius Varley]

7 hours ago, gamermole said:

I do have the skymax 127 will this need anything to achieve focus do you know?

Needs nothing else, just the t adapter for your camera.

[Geoff Lister]

This is what I use with my Skymax 127, and no problems acieving a focus

Geoff

[Gfamily]

Celestron do a 2x Barlow that has a T-thread at the top, for which the Barlow lens element can be removed. 

Very cheap and cheerful

[Bivanus]

Hello @gamermole I think an adapter similar to this https://www.astroshop.eu/t2-rings-lens-mounts/skywatcher-camera-adaptor-t2-ring-for-nikon-dslr/p,55142 and a tube similar to this https://www.astroshop.eu/barrel-adaptors/omegon-adaptors-t-2-to-1-25-nosepiece/p,33230 are fit for the purpose.

If you have a Canon DSLR the adapter is something like https://www.astroshop.eu/t2-rings-lens-mounts/omegon-camera-adaptor-t2-ring-compatible-with-canon-eos/p,2416 , there are also adapter for other brands out there.

[AstroNebulee]

As @Cornelius Varleysays you shouldn't need anything else just screw the t ring into the visual back and attach your dslr. You can adjust the positioning by unscrewing the visual back retaining ring then move then rotate the visual back to suit your needs and tighten the retaining ring back up. This is what I do with my 90mm mak. 

Or you could use the celestron x2 Barlow with t thread and slide into the scope and attach to a t ring. I have also done this with my dslr but now use a nosepiece adapter and screw the t ring to this and Barlow element on the nosepiece adapter. 

The simplist way is scope- t ring and dslr 

Lee 

[JOC]

I can reinterate the notes given above it is well worth seeing what else you have like barlows which might unscrew to find items that will screw into the T thread and reduce it to the 1.25" needed

[Cosmic Geoff]

The visual back of my Celestron 127mm Mak has a male T-thread.

[gamermole]

On 29/08/2023 at 23:12, Cornelius Varley said:

What telescope do you have ? In one of your other threads you mention a Skymax 127. The short tube attached to the rear of the telescope should have a male thread onto which you can attach a t adapter.

Or https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-1-25-inch-t-mount-camera-nosepiece-adapter.html .

Be aware that some telescopes (newtonians) might not reach focus without a Barlow lens and refractors might need an extension tube.

 I picked up a T2 adapter and I took the scope out tonight for a quick 10 minutes as I noticed Jupiter was out, I've never used a DSLR before so I just took a few quick shots, Jupiter is way over exposed but I'm pleased with just howmuch light the camera can let it, it shows lots of stars not visible to my eye through the eyepiece. I'm going to have to have a play around with the settings when I have a full night available to me.

[Louis D]

Good luck to your wallet!  You'll soon be sliding down the very expensive and slippery slope that is astrophotography. 😄

[TheThing]

That's a pretty neat start!  Well done and thanks for sharing.

[gamermole]

13 hours ago, Louis D said:

Good luck to your wallet!  You'll soon be sliding down the very expensive and slippery slope that is astrophotography. 😄

i dont think i will be spending much more.......................... not until i fully understang the dslr cameras settings.

[gamermole]

3 hours ago, TheThing said:

That's a pretty neat start!  Well done and thanks for sharing.

Thank you i still have a lot of work to do and i mean a lot.................... jupiter seemed to be over exposed no matter what iso level i set and no matter the shutter speed, do you have any tips?

[Louis D]

Put the camera in Manual (M) mode, set the ISO to the lowest setting (ISO 200 or thereabouts), and set the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second for starters.  Increase or decrease the shutter speed as needed to get the best exposure based on rear screen previews.  You'll still want to bracket your exposures around that best value because I've found that images look quite different on a large computer screen once downloaded and reviewed.  You can always check the EXIF data in the photos to find out which ones look best on a big screen.  Once you know what shutter speed works best, note it and use it exclusively next time.  You'll need slightly slower shutter speeds to capture the Galilean moons better.

Your 127 Mak is quite a slow lens at f/12, so getting the exposure down to a reasonable level shouldn't be too difficult.

[gamermole]

On 30/08/2023 at 19:15, Geoff Lister said:

This is what I use with my Skymax 127, and no problems acieving a focus

Geoff

Do you use the original lens whilst taking pictures through the scope?

[Mandy D]

5 hours ago, gamermole said:

Do you use the original lens whilst taking pictures through the scope?

You remove the lens from your DSLR, then the T-adapter attaches to the telescope and the camera attaches to the T-ring just as if the telescope were a big lens. No other lens on the camera is required. You can use Barlows or focal extenders to magnify the image of small objects like Jupiter if you want.

It is possible to attach a camera and lens to the telescope, but you really need filter ring adapters and a threaded eyepiece for that. Some users simply hold their mobile phone to the eyepiece and click, but that is certainly not the best way to do things.

[gamermole]

3 hours ago, Mandy D said:

You remove the lens from your DSLR, then the T-adapter attaches to the telescope and the camera attaches to the T-ring just as if the telescope were a big lens. No other lens on the camera is required. You can use Barlows or focal extenders to magnify the image of small objects like Jupiter if you want.

It is possible to attach a camera and lens to the telescope, but you really need filter ring adapters and a threaded eyepiece for that. Some users simply hold their mobile phone to the eyepiece and click, but that is certainly not the best way to do things.

Yeah that is how ive been doing it (using the scope as the lens) i just wasnt sure if there was any other methods that can be done using a cameras lens. so far ive managed to capture these images of the moon and a very blurry jupiter

[Cornelius Varley]

15 minutes ago, gamermole said:

Yeah that is how ive been doing it (using the scope as the lens) i just wasnt sure if there was any other methods that can be done using a cameras lens. so far ive managed to capture these images of the moon and a very blurry jupiter

There is a method of photography using the camera lens (afocal imaging). This method uses the camera's lens attached to an eyepiece to obtain the image. The method is the way to take photos using a mobile phone or a camera with a non detachable lens.

[Mandy D]

33 minutes ago, gamermole said:

Yeah that is how ive been doing it (using the scope as the lens) i just wasnt sure if there was any other methods that can be done using a cameras lens. so far ive managed to capture these images of the moon and a very blurry jupiter

I would say you almost certainly have camera shake on the Jupiter image and probably on the Moon, too. Your focus looks off on the Moon and probably on Jupiter, too.

A rigid setup is required when imaging at extreme focal lengths. This means a solid tripod or pier. Most camera tripods are inadequate, although it is possible to get good results with them if sufficient care is taken.

As you are using a DSLR, there is another problem which is never discussed enough: mirror slap. This is where the mirror is lifted as the first part of the exposure process and is taken care of by the camera when you press the shutter release. The camera wobbles, even on a solid tripod and is much worse on a spindly, wobbly one. Touching the camera to release the shutter is a complete no-no.

I always use a remote, wireless shutter release with my DSLRs. I use the Hahnel system and have an intervalometer option for longer exposures. This removes the need to touch the camera, but does not resolve the mirror slap problem that is inherent with all DSLRs. Hence, I use "Muppet" mode, labelled "Mup" on the camera function wheel or in the menu system somewhere. Mup is a contraction of Mirror Up. So, once in Muppet mode the first press of the shutter release or button on the remote lifts the mirror and you get the characteristic heavy clunk. Now, it is vitally important that you wait at least two seconds to allow the vibrations caused by this action to subside before taking the image. Note: no image has been taken yet, the camera has simply lifted the mirror out of the way and obstructed the viewfinder. After two or more seconds press the release again and you will hear a second clunk as the mirror drops back down. This clunk is not a problem as it occurs after the image has been taken and the shutter is once again closed.

Now, I called it Muppet mode because it is very easy to leave the camera in this mode and forget about it, so when you come to take a photo under other circumstances you forget you are in this mode and cannot understand why nothing is happening and feel like a right muppet!

Regarding focusing, do not try to do this through the viewfinder as it is not accurate enough. Use liveview on the rear screen of the camera and zoom right in. Go through the point of focus from both sides with the focuser so that you know fairly precisely where best focus is, then make the final focuser movement in the direction of travel of the focuser tube that carries the weight of the camera. This reduces the backlash problem. So, if the camera is hanging off the focuser, like on a refractor or mak, you should make the final movement an outward one - away from the telescope. On Newts, it is generally the opposite.

Edited September 27, 2023 by Mandy D
Added information

[gamermole]

37 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

I would say you almost certainly have camera shake on the Jupiter image and probably on the Moon, too. Your focus looks off on the Moon and probably on Jupiter, too.

A rigid setup is required when imaging at extreme focal lengths. This means a solid tripod or pier. Most camera tripods are inadequate, although it is possible to get good results with them if sufficient care is taken.

As you are using a DSLR, there is another problem which is never discussed enough: mirror slap. This is where the mirror is lifted as the first part of the exposure process and is taken care of by the camera when you press the shutter release. The camera wobbles, even on a solid tripod and is much worse on a spindly, wobbly one. Touching the camera to release the shutter is a complete no-no.

I always use a remote, wireless shutter release with my DSLRs. I use the Hahnel system and have an intervalometer option for longer exposures. This removes the need to touch the camera, but does not resolve the mirror slap problem that is inherent with all DSLRs. Hence, I use "Muppet" mode, labelled "Mup" on the camera function wheel or in the menu system somewhere. Mup is a contraction of Mirror Up. So, once in Muppet mode the first press of the shutter release or button on the remote lifts the mirror and you get the characteristic heavy clunk. Now, it is vitally important that you wait at least two seconds to allow the vibrations caused by this action to subside before taking the image. Note: no image has been taken yet, the camera has simply lifted the mirror out of the way and obstructed the viewfinder. After two or more seconds press the release again and you will hear a second clunk as the mirror drops back down. This clunk is not a problem as it occurs after the image has been taken and the shutter is once again closed.

Now, I called it Muppet mode because it is very easy to leave the camera in this mode and forget about it, so when you come to take a photo under other circumstances you forget you are in this mode and cannot understand why nothing is happening and feel like a right muppet!

Regarding focusing, do not try to do this through the viewfinder as it is not accurate enough. Use liveview on the rear screen of the camera and zoom right in. Go through the point of focus from both sides with the focuser so that you know fairly precisely where best focus is, then make the final focuser movement in the direction of travel of the focuser tube that carries the weight of the camera. This reduces the backlash problem. So, if the camera is hanging off the focuser, like on a refractor or mak, you should make the final movement an outward one - away from the telescope. On Newts, it is generally the opposite.

Thank you so much for an amazing and informative post, In terms of tripod I'm using the skywatcher  AZ-GTI go to and I use the touch screen shutter on the camera as to get minimal camera shake, the image of Jupiter is exactly as it looks through the cameras eyepiece, although I was combining the camera with a 3x Barlow lens? Without the Barlow I can't see Jupiter that close.

[Mandy D]

4 minutes ago, gamermole said:

Thank you so much for an amazing and informative post, In terms of tripod I'm using the skywatcher  AZ-GTI go to and I use the touch screen shutter on the camera as to get minimal camera shake, the image of Jupiter is exactly as it looks through the cameras eyepiece, although I was combining the camera with a 3x Barlow lens? Without the Barlow I can't see Jupiter that close.

Drop the Barlow out as it is likely causing you major problems. You would be attempting to image at a focal length of 4.5 metres with it in the Skymax. That is not a good focal length for a complete beginner and you would need a very solid setup for it to work. The Skymax at 1500 mm FL coupled with any modern DSLR (what model is yours?) will give a decent size image of Jupiter at that focal length. I've used a D800 with 4.88 μm pixels and a 200P with FL = 1200 mm and get an acceptable image, OK, it is only tens of pixels across, but clearly identifiable as Jupiter with bands and red spot.

Do NOT use the touchscreen shutter release! You will induce camera shake, no matter how careful you think you are being. Muppet mode or a remote release are the only ways to go. Once you have mastered it at this level, then start putting Barlows in, but start with a 1.5x or 2x first. Make the learning curve less steep.

I'm glad you appreciated my previous post.

[gamermole]

1 hour ago, Mandy D said:

Drop the Barlow out as it is likely causing you major problems. You would be attempting to image at a focal length of 4.5 metres with it in the Skymax. That is not a good focal length for a complete beginner and you would need a very solid setup for it to work. The Skymax at 1500 mm FL coupled with any modern DSLR (what model is yours?) will give a decent size image of Jupiter at that focal length. I've used a D800 with 4.88 μm pixels and a 200P with FL = 1200 mm and get an acceptable image, OK, it is only tens of pixels across, but clearly identifiable as Jupiter with bands and red spot.

Do NOT use the touchscreen shutter release! You will induce camera shake, no matter how careful you think you are being. Muppet mode or a remote release are the only ways to go. Once you have mastered it at this level, then start putting Barlows in, but start with a 1.5x or 2x first. Make the learning curve less steep.

I'm glad you appreciated my previous post.

Thank you once again. i will drop the barlow from now on. the dslr i have isnt recent, its a 700D and im unsure if it even has "muppet mode" its definately something i will look into, aswell as getting a remote shutter release. i know im a beginner but im guessing nebula and the such wont be achievable using this set up. and do you have any examples of photos you have taken using a dslr?

[Mandy D]

@gamermole I've taken the liberty of processing your Moon image in GIMP and have attached a copy of the result. Whilst I have not done a perfect job with it, this does show that there is something in the original to bring out in processing. So, you have a basically OK image.

The 700D appears to have Muppet mode. You can find out all about it in your manual. There are few real advantages to recent DSLRs, so I would not fret about the 700D being old. It is still just as capable as it was when it was launched.

You will definitely be able to take snapshots of brighter nebulae, such as Orion, M42, but they won't be anything like what the gurus achieve.

Edited September 27, 2023 by Mandy D
edited for clarity