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Ok Own up who out there is .....................

mark RD

By mark RD
in The Astro Lounge

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lunator

lunator

Posted
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Mark

I do a bit of afocal imaging.

There arn't any real tricks. I do my best to get focus as good as poss and take several images. Usually there is one that is better than the rest.

A little tweak in imaging software can help bring out some nore detail etc.

Cheers

Ian

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mark RD

mark RD

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OK OK

The equipment I use. All pictures I have done so far I have used my 5 Inch F9.4 refractor and to be honest a not so great Trust 820 camera.

The focus can be abit of a problem as it is almost impossible to see if you are in focus until you look at the picture on the PC or lap top.

I have a number of tricks for this. I assemble and mount ( strangle ) on to the eye piece before I go out center it up then undoing only one of the screws

I take it apart again. Drop the eye piece into the telescope get on target focus lock the focus up so it will not move then mount the camera, remembering only to

tighten the screw you undid and not adjust any others when remounting the camera.

Its best to not use the zoom on the camera and rely on the eye pieces and or barlow for extra power, I also use the 10 second timer on the camera so everything is stable when the pic is taken.

Is there really so few of us Afocal people on this

Mark

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radioactive

radioactive

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Well Mark I have very little in the way of cameras I have a Fujifilm DX-7 and a Fuji Finepix F700 that will take pictures but the lcd screen is not working so its mostly no good for anything I take it to take pics of decent fish I catch really (course fish) or the odd snap for putting stuff on ebay never tried it at night don't think I can turn flash off thinking about it but will try to have a play with the old DX-7 and get back to you :lol:

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mark RD

mark RD

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Look forward to seeing the results Caz. Don,t worry too much about the camera the camera I use is also Rubbish infact thay go on ebay for about £15 £20.

I have a better camera but I did not get better results from it so I do not use it for Afocal.

Mark

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mark RD

mark RD

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I have decided to go to the old fashioned methods and use a SLR camera for deep pace objects, I found an adapter I had for many years and never used, and a pentax p30 camera body I just got of ebay.

Mark

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Naz

Naz

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I have decided to go to the old fashioned methods and use a SLR camera for deep pace objects, I found an adapter I had for many years and never used, and a pentax p30 camera body I just got of ebay.

Mark

Are going to Hyper the film Mark, it can increase the exposure capabilities and decrease the reciprocity failure, i.e. when you do long exposures the air that is absorbed naturally by the film can cause problems.

nabban

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FLO

FLO

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Are going to Hyper the film Mark, it can increase the exposure capabilities and decrease the reciprocity failure, i.e. when you do long exposures the air that is absorbed naturally by the film can cause problems.

Hyper the film?

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mark RD

mark RD

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Hyper the film? Now that sound like a good idea, I never try that before, anyone care to take me though how to do it?

Last time I used a SLR camera for astronomy was when I was 14 I only had a 50mm lens and I know very little then.

Now the price of a decent SLR have come right down and lens are also much cheaper so I'm going for it. I still know very little though.

Mark

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Naz

Naz

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Give me some time, I did see something about it on the net a while ago, it seemed like a heck of a lot effort and expense, I did see in the past, hypered film for sale stateside, in one the magazines.

The reason to hyper film is to allow longer exposure than can be obtained with of the shelf stock.

Each film type, even from the same manufacturer, has a point when in terms of exposure, it can't take any more detail, this is due to air being absorbed by the film emulsion, this is normal, but a severe hinderence to long exposures.

Say for example, your trying a dso shot, you expose for 30 secs, detail not bad, but you want more, so you expose for 60 secs, a little more detail, but not a lot, try 120 secs no more detail than 60 secs. the film is not resonding to the extra time exposure. after all they make the film to give good colour / contrast at a range of exposures, say from between 1000th sec @ f16 through to 1 sec at f2

Everyday film is not designed for the long exposures required in astro work, but by replacing the air with a gas (don't remember which), you can get a vast improvement in long exposures.

Will have a look around later, and post the link.

nabban

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Darron

Darron

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Thanks Caz and James

Never thought of doing that or even that it would work. If we ever get another clear night I will have to give it a go, I have a HP Photosmart 945 and see what happens.

Darron

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