Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Why on earth would I buy a DSLR for astrophotography?


Recommended Posts

I think the best advice is to show the type of images that can regularly be achieved with a DSLR and a dedicated astronomical camera so those who are new to the hobby can decide if they want to pay for the extra expense of the latter option. This is what I've done with different modified DSLR cameras over the years: canon 1000D, 450D,  600D, 100D. Nothing special, really -in fact, some can be greatly improved by a more experience hand (vignetting, noise, etc) but it gives an idea of the kind of stuff one can achieve with £200-£300 invested in a DSLR as opposed to ££££s put into a dedicated astro camera.

 

post-18331-0-12676100-1439561471_thumb.jpgpost-18331-0-45125300-1440986202_thumb.jpgpost-18331-0-55210500-1441836828_thumb.png158052927_JPEGNorthAmericaCanon200mm.thumb.jpg.4215fd5fc71a7121fe0cf9fe6f2ed7bc.jpgSkogafoss2.jpg.78fc106725f1f608da986055b56461cc.jpg

 

Orion Nebula.jpg

Horsehead.jpg

Hercules Globular Cluster.jpg

M31 Andromeda.jpg

M51 LP FiltergreencorrectionCB 4 hr 57 mn Pixinsight.jpg

Dumbell.jpg

Veil.jpg

M31 200mm.jpg

ReducedLagoonandTrifid1hr42mins.jpg

Edited by pixueto
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 26/01/2019 at 04:35, rickwayne said:

Y'know, sensor size is not in itself an advantage. You want to match your desired FOV to the sensor size, yes, but angular pixel size is also in play. I deliberately chose a smaller sensor for my first dedicated astro camera precisely so that smaller objects would more nearly fill the frame, while the smaller pixels helped address the undersampling that my DSLR rig gives me. Smaller-pixel sensors are often noisier than bigger-pixel ones, true, but between today's sensors and stacking, that's a lot less of a problem than it used to be.

I think this is a mistake. It leads people to suppose that, in making the object fill the frame, a small chip is creating a larger or more detailed image of that object. It simply isn't. The only way, in given optics, to make an object's image larger is to put more pixels under it - meaning choosing smaller pixels. Or you can use a longer focal length. If an object is too small in its full field of view, as imaged, we simply crop it for presentation. 

Olly

 

Edited by ollypenrice
Typo
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't really have much to add to the points raised above, except to say that buying a brand new DSLR for imaging is not really financially worth doing, when you can buy cheap 2nd hand already modified DSLRs just as good.

I have used both DSLRs and cooled mono cameras.  I prefer the latter as you get less noise and much better detail, but cooled mono cameras come at a cost especially when you include the filter wheel and filters, but learning Astrophotography is a steep learning curve, and personally I think a DSLR is a good introduction without having to cope with too many things all at once.  Cut your teeth on that and you will then be ready to move on to the next stage.

I would recommend Mono CCD over OSC for two reasons.  More sensitivity, and ability to do narrowband.  

Substitute CMOS for CCD and it comes a lot cheaper, though I have never used a CMOS mono camera so can't compare. 

Carole 

 

Edited by carastro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For wide field and whole Moon shots I use my very trusted Canon 650D. I have owned this for 8 years and it has done good service. It is astro moded. 

I have  an Altair 290M for detailed Lunar and planetary work. Small it might be but it captures really good shots which a DSLR with a Barlow would not. Horses for courses.

I use it in preference to my 178C and 183C Altair cameras for deep sky. I can see the results on live view and focusing is easier as I now use Backyard EOS. I also find it more intuitive to us.

Now I have installed a Prima Luce Eagle 3 on my X850 mount I will probably use the Altair cameras more as I do not need to connect using my laptop, the Eagle does that for me.

For outreach I would always take the Canon with me. Simple. no extra wiring needed and I run it off an after market power grip which lasts hours.

So I do not see a reason to exclude one type of camera in place of another.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the one hand I agree about the step up a cooled camera presents. The DSLR allows the processing chain to be tested and learnt at low cost.

I'm pursuing the cam86 angle cos I like building stuff and I need a large sensor and large pixels and the price of a Moravian is just eye watering. 

Look on eBay for DIY ccd camera

Edited by skybadger
Updated.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.