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Getting entire lunar image


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I'm using an Orion 8" F4.9 with a Canon SL1, 23mm lens in camera to telescope adapter. Can't get but 1/4 of the moon in an image.

I bought a better quality lens, 32mm hoping to get the full image, but it won't fit my adapter.

Is there anything I can do. I've seen reducer lens but not sure if they will work with a reflector.

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32 minutes ago, maw lod qan said:

I'm using an Orion 8" F4.9 with a Canon SL1, 23mm lens in camera to telescope adapter. Can't get but 1/4 of the moon in an image.

I bought a better quality lens, 32mm hoping to get the full image, but it won't fit my adapter.

Is there anything I can do. I've seen reducer lens but not sure if they will work with a reflector.

You should be able to get the full disc of the moon on the sensor by not using an eyepiece in the focuser (the method you are using is normally referred to as eyepiece projection), just connect the body of the camera to the focuser by using a t-ring (prime focus imaging). The diameter of the moon will be about 10mm on the sensor with this method. Conversely, take a series of overlapping images and stitch these together in Microsoft ICE or Photoshop.

link to eyepiece projection calculator

Size of moon at prime focus

astronomy_tools_fov.png.024d8635b9b869e973ca6ef301479ba6.png

 

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I couldn't get prime focus on my 12" dob without using a Barlow, as is often the case. The method I used to image the moon was to take multiple frames and stitch them together in a mosaic. If you can't get prime focus, using the same method with eyepiece projection or a Barlow may be your only option, without modifying your scope that is.

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28 minutes ago, maw lod qan said:

Tried prime focus but couldn't focus inward enough. I'll try again to be 100% certain.

It might depend on the type of focuser you have. The Skywatcher range use a 2" focuser with a 1.25" adapter, removing the 2" tube reveals a t-thread on the part that goes into the drawer tube.

 

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