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The EQ3 DSO Challenge


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I'm not much more of an expert but open both images. On the image you want to use as base, create a new layer and make sure that layer is highlighted. Go to other image and copy it. The I think its as simple as pasting it in the other image. I'm assuming both images are identical in scale, etc. If not, they need to be aligned first.

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4 hours ago, Nigel G said:

I can only seem to layer the image opened in PS, if I open the second image and select new layer it stays with that image if you know what I mean.

Can you see the layers in the layer manager at right?

Just drag the layer onto the other image and drop it. if you hold it there for a second before releasing the mouse it should auto align itself.

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4 hours ago, Filroden said:

I'm not much more of an expert but open both images. On the image you want to use as base, create a new layer and make sure that layer is highlighted. Go to other image and copy it. The I think its as simple as pasting it in the other image. I'm assuming both images are identical in scale, etc. If not, they need to be aligned first.

If they are different you need to use 'edit --> free transform' with the transform tool (little arrow by a +) to move it. You can align a star in both images, then move the centre of rotation on top of the star, then enter values of rotation (down to 0.05 of a degree steps) until the two images are aligned. Then click another tool and it will ask if you want to apply the transformation.

I think...

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I was thinking about mixing camera data while trying to sleep last night :) 

Being slightly disapointed with my M31 result. Its now obvious why it was only the same as my first stack, although it had 4 hours of non modified data it only had 1h 40m from the second camera, it would only be as good as the lesser data, adding 1 sub from the modified camera would introduce loads of noise. If I take the same 4 hours with the modified camera the result would be greatly improved. If I want an image quality with 8 hours worth of data and add a second camera data I would need to take 8 hours with that camera too.

Thats a lot of data for an 8 hour image.

I'll stick to 1 camera per image :) 

Trying to layer in PS atm, got a result :) not quite alighned yet but gives the image a sort of funky 3d effect which I quite like :) 

Edit. got it, thanks for your help Neil & Ken.

Hours of fun when you learn new tools :D 

Nige.

Edited by Nigel G
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I opened both images, chose the base image, select duplicate layer, which gives you the option of choosing which of the open images the layer will be, so select 2nd image.

Then select free transform from the edit dropdown, set opacity to 50% on the layers tool pallet, zoom in and align the images.

Then in the layers tool pallet I am free to do what I want, choosing type of layer and opacity etc.

Thanks again.

Nige.

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1 hour ago, Nigel G said:

Being slightly disapointed with my M31 result. Its now obvious why it was only the same as my first stack, although it had 4 hours of non modified data it only had 1h 40m from the second camera, it would only be as good as the lesser data, adding 1 sub from the modified camera would introduce loads of noise. If I take the same 4 hours with the modified camera the result would be greatly improved. If I want an image quality with 8 hours worth of data and add a second camera data I would need to take 8 hours with that camera too.

Mixing subs from 2 cameras shouldn't have that impact. Are you stacking all the subs together or stacking subs from different cameras then restacking the results? The latter is prone to degrading the image. But if you throw it all into the same stack and use an algorythm that weights by SNR and uses a good rejection technique then it should improve the image.

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55 minutes ago, Filroden said:

Mixing subs from 2 cameras shouldn't have that impact. Are you stacking all the subs together or stacking subs from different cameras then restacking the results? The latter is prone to degrading the image. But if you throw it all into the same stack and use an algorythm that weights by SNR and uses a good rejection technique then it should improve the image.

Your right thinking again... too much thought :) 

I'll have to check all the DSS settings see if I missed anything and re stack.

I loaded the 1300d lights flats and bias in 1 group and 1200d lights flats and bias in 2nd group, then DSS stacks them all together, using correct flats and bias for each set.

Stacking with sigma clipping.

Nige.

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Why not stack ALL the data for a luminance layer and just the unmodded data for an RGB layer?

By the way I am slowly learning ways of getting better colour out of modded camera data, not all the way there yet, but making progress.

This game really is three steps forwards, two steps back.

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27 minutes ago, Nigel G said:

Last image of M31 until fully completed. I wanted to show the accidental miss aligned version which I think is quite effective and almost 3D, giving the image depth.

Now that's that I call red shift!

I had a go with your jpegs using PixInsight to blend luminance from one and RGB from the other plus I used it's new colour calibration tool that uses the stars actual BV to calibrate colour across the image. Hope you don't mind!

Image08_clone.thumb.jpg.9c262f76b5c8ecae76ab45e177acec42.jpg

Edited by Filroden
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1 hour ago, Filroden said:

Now that's that I call red shift!

I had a go with your jpegs using PixInsight to blend luminance from one and RGB from the other plus I used it's new colour calibration tool that uses the stars actual BV to calibrate colour across the image. Hope you don't mind!

 

Not at all Ken, thanks, any info, methods and results are very welcome :) I have downloaded your image and it looks very much like one I layered the lum from the non mod to the all data one.

I have quite a file on M31 now, different stacks, processes and effects.

Just stacked and processing modified data only. Its good data although its only 1h40m its processing easy, now I'm thinking- need more with the modded cam if I'm to continue.

Cheers.

Nige.

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On 17/10/2017 at 17:27, Nigel G said:

Silly question time.

First snag, how do I use a layer from one image to place on another.

I can only seem to layer the image opened in PS, if I open the second image and select new layer it stays with that image if you know what I mean.

I think its research time :) 

I have managed to blend them in photo merge but have no control over blending amount or type.

PS. I have Photoshop CS2 free version.

Nige.

Hey nige, if you want to layer two different files/images, open them both separately, click on one the press Ctrl+A to highlight it, then Ctrl+C to copy it... click on the other file and press Ctrl+V to paste as a layer. If you want to blend them, look at the layer panel (usually on the right hand side of the screen) above the top layer there should be a drop down that's probably labelled "Normal" (this is where you select your blend mode) next to a slider that controls the opacity of the blend... have a play and see which ones you like.

hth Art

edit, only just noticed you already solved this... looking good! 

Edited by Art Gecko
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Had a bit of fun myself this week trying out different processing techniques... Made a last minute decision to get the scope out on saturday and shoot the pacman nebula, managed to get 1 hour of data in 30 second subs..... I was very disappointed with the result:

This one with darks and flats.pacman_nebula-52min.thumb.jpg.539be693d821aac1604fc9c552f1d3d6.jpg

Then I thought to myself "I'm sure I've read people saying that darks don't always help and sometimes make it worse"... So I did a re-stack, same data, this time with no darks.pac-neb_58.5.thumb.jpg.f04a5b7fde76d2f64ad7bf32cbd81249.jpg

Better, but I still wasn't entirely happy... So I had one more go... This time stripping the chanels down to R, G and B and stretching them/denoising them all separately before recombining in a new file.... since I'd gone this far already I also desaturated and slightly darkened the previous version and added that as a Lum layer, giving me a sort of "poor man's" LRGB image.pacman-LRGBcombo.thumb.jpg.8be82ed105f450de55ad8eb4e81c1564.jpg

Art

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School boy error last night, had tracking controller set to the moon and not the star setting, doh. Wondered why I could only get 20 seconds exposures and even they were not great. Realised after a couple of wasted hours. Then got an hour of 60 seconds on M74 so will see later what that comes out like. Must have a checklist in future!!

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I have take a further 2h 24m of 12minute subs making a total of 7 hours with my non modified 1300D Adding the 2 hours of modified subs does not help, if anything its harder to process but slightly better on colour.

Now its time to switch targets.

M31 final process maybe.

Nige.

59ee1f88ad8a0_M31-7hnon.thumb.jpg.747d8a312993ad4834765d09ecfab340.jpg

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18 minutes ago, Nigel G said:

M31 final process maybe

Hi. Tremendous effort and wonderful detail. I took a couple of bumps out of the red curve. May help a bit with the balance? But hey, icing... HTH and clear skies.

a1.thumb.jpg.6e522baa42521d49e322702bf98115cf.jpg

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On 22/10/2017 at 19:05, Peco4321 said:

Clear skies tonight, even if the neighbours lights are on. Going for M74 I think, new target for me. Might take in Uranus if I can locate it as well. 

I've not looked at M74 before.  I had a look at it in Stellarium + wikipedia and it looks like a worthy target.  For me, it will be clearing the neighbours roof quite nicely over the next few nights.

 

If only the clouds would shift for a few hours....

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3 hours ago, mikey2000 said:

I've not looked at M74 before.  I had a look at it in Stellarium + wikipedia and it looks like a worthy target.  For me, it will be clearing the neighbours roof quite nicely over the next few nights.

 

If only the clouds would shift for a few hours....

I managed it and got about 45 mins of 60sec exposures but not very satisfied with results. Here it is anyway, cropped heavily. 

IMG_4982.JPG

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