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Art Gecko

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About Art Gecko

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  1. On my 130p I cut 15mm off the back of the tube and remounted the mirror to bring the camera to focus... a 2x Barlow will do the job but makes the image more unsteady and you need to increase open shutter time by something like 4x to gather the same amount of light
  2. I think I vaguely remember focussing mine Before screwing it into the mount... but I may be wrong I don’t know for sure if that makes a difference
  3. Does a polar scope have focus adjusters? I can’t remember!! Been so long since I had to calibrate one!!
  4. You should be able to see the markings in daylight... you need to!! Otherwise how have you calibrated/centred it to the mount?? Where did you get it?
  5. I used to strap a head torch with a red light to mine and angle it so the markings showed up but Polaris still showed through!
  6. At the moment mate, yes they are! PM me
  7. When you’ve researched it and decided if you want it, PM me and we’ll work something out!
  8. Sorry, I thought I'd posted a picture of the camera... It's the EOS 600D (I think it's just the IR filter that has been removed) I'd prefer collection, I live in thetford (IP24)... but I guess for the camera and guidescope I can consider posting it if it genuinely is too far to travel... I would just imagine anyone buying these items would want to see them first before parting with any money?... or maybe that's just me!!
  9. I've decided to sell all my astro-gear, much as it pains me to see it go, I just don't use it anymore. So here is the list: 1) Skywatcher HEQ5 pro mount (with synscan) £500. [SOLD] 2) Cannon Eos 600D Rebel T3i astromodified, £300. [SOLD] 3) Orion guidscope with guidecam, £200. [SOLD] 4) Skywatcher Eq3-2 with clock-drive and fitted polarscope, £100. 5) Skywatcher 130 OTA (tube shortened for astrophotography but still works for observing), £50. Also comes with home made solar filter. Will sell these items seperately, but will also consider selling the job lot for £1000. Collection only please. Cash/bank transfer on collection.
  10. Astrophotography can be a "personal best" kind of sport, and people learn at different speeds. So I thought I'd open this thread up to anyone who is entering their second year of imaging and is interested in comparing their pictures publicly? The pinwheel Galaxy was one of my first DSLR imaging targets last year, so I thought I'd have another go and see how much better I could do... The answer, a LOT! Making the most of a long weekend I managed to get out on 3 nights, my first multi-night target in fact, and gathered a couple of hours worth each night. Stacked in DSS, 76 x 5min ISO800 subs with calibration frames: And last year (sorry I can't remember the stats): In the last year I've learned a lot, and spent a fair bit of cash to up my game...Feels good to see the improvement! Anyone else out there that feels like they're getting nowhere with imaging, stick at it, if you really love doing it you'll find a way to make it work... whether through DIY or $$$... when you look back at old pictures, and you have a more recent and better example... it's Great! Feel free to share your own examples here!! Art.
  11. A lot of good advice on here! Just thought I'd add a couple of points: 1: if you go for a ccd, be aware there both colour and mono ccds... if you go for a mono, have room in your budget for filters! 2: I have a 130p and I had to cut 20mm off the back and refit the mirror to gain focus.. so you may need to do a bit of diy. 3: if you're running a Mac, lynkeos is good, it's technically for planetary work, but I got good enough results doing DSO work with it... also DSS will work through wineskin on some versions of OSX but not others, either way make sure you have plenty of RAM! 4: with Nikon, the D5xxx series should be fine, but watch out for the D3xxx series, they have connectivity issues with many AP programs! I say this just because I struggled for a long time with my Nikon and recently gave up and bought a modded canon. hope that helps in some small way, good luck and clear skies! Art
  12. I would recheck your collimation... I had some images go a bit like that, with uncontrollable patches of colour and shade... turned out to be my secondary mirror that had slipped and I hadn't realised while collimating the primary... I may be wrong in this instance, but worth checking... and old carpentry saying "measure twice, cut once" hth, Art
  13. When my friend took the files home and tried them on his computer, the calibration frames were apparently the right size and he got DSS to work the subs properly... Here is the result:
  14. I do have a back catalogue of calibration frames for my own camera... just a shame they won't work for his!
  15. Thanks Andy, now I think of it... we did export the flats from the SD card directly to their own folder, but the bias and flat-darks were exported all together then transferred into their own folders respectively... could this have something to do with it I wander? I guess these things can happen when passing a laptop between two people and not doing everything yourself
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