Sky-Watcher Star Discovery 150P

[markthg]

Hi,

Has anyone got any experience of using the Sky-Watcher Star Discovery 150P?

I am stuck between choosing it for its extra ap and focal length over my other choice of Celestron NexStar 130 SLT (750 instead of 650 and 150 instead of 130.)

However I am guessing it may be quite new to the market as I am struggling to find any good reviews to read up on/watch.

Thanks.

[happy-kat]

They are both f5 telescopes.

Do they both have a 1.25 focuser?

Perhaps that is a difference between then other than size of light gathering.

[markthg]

They are both f5 telescopes.

Do they both have a 1.25 focuser?

Perhaps that is a difference between then other than size of light gathering.

Yes they are both 1.25, however from reading up on the Nexstar you can use either 2 or 1.25.

[happy-kat]

Threads on here with reviews.

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/256493-skywatcher-star-discovery-150p/page-1

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/257019-star-discovery-150p-or-explorer-130p-goto-scopes/?fromsearch=1

[happy-kat]

Following another member providing a link this is a hands on review by a reseller but none the less it gives a visual of handling it.

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/257019-star-discovery-150p-or-explorer-130p-goto-scopes/?fromsearch=1

[popeye85]

fraid I can't help you with the celestron or comparrison between the two but I have got a disovery150-have had it it for a couple of months now and only been out with it twice due to the wether but I can honestly say that this is a fantastic scope-not sure if you have found this review yet-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhhs65AWdCk.

if you have any specific questions about this scope then just fire them at me and I will try and answer them!

[Alan64]

Hello Mark, and welcome,

If you're referring solely to the Sky-Watcher's Newtonian OTA within your enquiry, then I may be able to help...

I have a Synta 6" f/5 Newtonian...

It is, in a word: great.

Both OTAs, my Orion and the Sky-Watcher in question, are made by Synta in China.  Per the aforementioned YouTube video, the Sky-Watcher's primary mirror cannot be collimated in the usual manner...

 

...and its plastic spider-vanes are actually rods, and may prove problematic when viewing the brighter planets especially.

Without the ability to properly collimate it, the telescope, and the observer, may never realise the best images that it could produce otherwise.

The OTA of the Sky-Watcher Star Discovery 150P kit actually consists of a good deal of plastic, and so as not to place a burden on the mount's motors.  The mirrors within may or may not be at the same level of quality as those within this one...

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-ota.html

With said go-to kit, you'll be paying a lot more for the mount than for the telescope itself, the latter being rather toy-like.

I realise that the go-to feature is quite tempting, but in the long term you might be better served by this kit instead, albeit without go-to...

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-ds-ota.html

http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-az4-1-alt-az-mount-with-aluminium-tripod.html

Cheers,

Alan

[happy-kat]

The review states it has the same mirror as the 150p. Surely it would be very costly for a factory to produce another 150p mirror that was not the same 150p mirror.

[Alan64]

The review states it has the same mirror as the 150p. Surely it would be very costly for a factory to produce another 150p mirror that was not the same 150p mirror.

Are there not also soda-lime mirror-blanks in addition to those of borosilicate sitting on the factory pallets?  Borosilicate glass is more resistant to changes in temperature, and all the more important for fast parabolas. 

[happy-kat]

Perhaps the soda blanks are used for the none parabolic seriphical mirrors, perhaps they aren't, it is supposition and not fact.

[Nigel G]

Hi Mark.

I have a star discovery 150p goto, it is a very good scope and excellent value for money. SkyWatcher have used abs plastic for mounting both mirrors. Abs plastic is a strong plastic which has very little effect in temp change and is fine for what it does. In fact I am going to tell you a secret now, My scope fell off the mount last week and it was the plastic primary mirror housing that took the fall and saved the scope. My own fault for not checking the tightness of the bolt, I was viewing about my zenith at the time so it slid out and bounced. Had it been metal I may have been not so lucky.

It can be collimated as I did after my incident. There are 3 screws around the mirror, there is enough movement there to adjust and line up.

I have only one criticism, the focuser is plastic. It bends a little bit with a dslr camera attached.

Hope this helps.

Nigel.

[popeye85]

yes was going to mention that the abs plastic is less prone to expansion/contraction and certinly does not feel 'toy like'.

[Alan64]

Perhaps the soda blanks are used for the none parabolic seriphical mirrors, perhaps they aren't, it is supposition and not fact.

I have this one.  I was able salvage the optical tube and place it on another mount.  If only I could do it all over again... http://www.telescope.com/Telescopes/Reflector-Telescopes/Reflector-Telescopes-for-Beginners/Orion-StarBlast-6-Astro-Reflector-Telescope/pc/1/c/11/sc/339/p/102011.uts

Within the specifications, it states: "Low thermal expansion borosilicate glass".

Then, we have a re-branded version of the Sky-Watcher in question; the exact same kit... http://www.telescope.com/Telescopes/Reflector-Telescopes/Reflector-Telescopes-for-Beginners/Orion-StarSeeker-IV-150mm-GoTo-Reflector-Telescope/pc/1/c/11/sc/339/p/113917.uts?refineByCategoryId=339

..."Low thermal expansion glass".  It's not a typographic error, as the 114mm and 130mm also specify same.  Therefore, in this case, the supposition lies with the manufacturer.

[Alan64]

Hi Mark.

I have a star discovery 150p goto, it is a very good scope and excellent value for money. SkyWatcher have used abs plastic for mounting both mirrors. Abs plastic is a strong plastic which has very little effect in temp change and is fine for what it does. In fact I am going to tell you a secret now, My scope fell off the mount last week and it was the plastic primary mirror housing that took the fall and saved the scope. My own fault for not checking the tightness of the bolt, I was viewing about my zenith at the time so it slid out and bounced. Had it been metal I may have been not so lucky.

It can be collimated as I did after my incident. There are 3 screws around the mirror, there is enough movement there to adjust and line up.

I have only one criticism, the focuser is plastic. It bends a little bit with a dslr camera attached.

Hope this helps.

Nigel.

This may be a fix for that issue.  My Synta 6" f/5 has the same, exact plastic 1.25" focusser.  In flocking and blackening it, the plastic shims within the drawtube cavity were replaced with self-adhesive felt...

It's noticeably tighter and smoother as a result.

[markthg]

This may be a fix for that issue.  My Synta 6" f/5 has the same, exact plastic 1.25" focusser.  In flocking and blackening it, the plastic shims within the drawtube cavity were replaced with self-adhesive felt...

focusser5.jpg

It's noticeably tighter and smoother as a result.

Sorry, but I have to ask a complete newbie question.......what do you mean by flocking and blackening it?

Is it a kit or something?

Sorry for being a complete amateur

[Flyingfuzz]

I also have the Skywatcher Star Discovery 150p, upgraded from a 130p on EQ mount as I wanted a goto. The scope is a huge up grade from the 130p and the optics are pin Sharp. The scope is and feels top quality and don't let anyone without the scope tell you otherwise. The mirror mounting are fine and feel as solid as my old 130p.

[Ricochet]

Blackening is painting something black. You can see in the pictures in the previous post how the draw tube starts chrome and ends up black.

Flocking is sticking a non-reflective fabric to the inside of the tube. FLO sell rolls of self adhesive flocking for £7 but you can also get it from Wilkinsons for £5.

http://www.wilko.com/sticky-back-plastic/d-c-fix-original-deco-self-adhesive-film-velour-black-348-0005/invt/0309578

[Alan64]

On 1/20/2016 at 12:10, markthg said:

This may be a fix for that issue.  My Synta 6" f/5 has the same, exact plastic 1.25" focusser.  In flocking and blackening it, the plastic shims within the drawtube cavity were replaced with self-adhesive felt...

focusser5.jpg

It's noticeably tighter and smoother as a result.

Sorry, but I have to ask a complete newbie question.......what do you mean by flocking and blackening it?

Is it a kit or something?

Sorry for being a complete amateur :)

 

To noticeably or even dramatically improve contrast and ensure blacker sky backgrounds around and about the objects observed, one might flock and blacken various areas within a telescope's tube: the interior of the tube is flocked with a photon-absorptive layer, the material used being similar to black velvet but better; in the case of a Newtonian, the back and edges of the secondary mirror are painted with an ultra-flat black spray paint; the inside of the focusser's drawtube is flocked or painted, et cetera.  The goal is to make the inside of the telescope's tube as non-reflective as possible; to deaden same to all manner of stray-light sources that might enter the tube: light from the Moon, street lights, a neighbour's porch light, et al.

[Guest]

HI, i also have this scope, and for the money its an awesome peace of kit, again as mentioned the only let down for me is the focuser, i am going to replace it with this...

http://agenaastro.com/gso-1-25-reflector-crayford-focuser-single-speed.html#product_tabs_power_reviews

I know its still a 1.25 but all my ep's are this size and to be honest i dont need a 2" ep nor does this size scope warrant it for me for the added cost, it was a budget buy ultimately.

When mine came the collimation was way off, a Skywatcher issue i can confirm as when i went to adjust the 4 retaining screws that hold the plastic cell in place it was also lightly

glued into position so i had to "crack" this seal before i could adjust the cell. Although strange moving it around a 4 fixing system it collimated easily and now performs brilliant.

I personally couldnt be happier with my 150p and at £344 delivered, a true bargain and a proper chuck in the car and observe scope, exactly what i need right now to get back into

this life long hobby.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Lee.

 

[markthg]

1 hour ago, LeeRich said:

HI, i also have this scope, and for the money its an awesome peace of kit, again as mentioned the only let down for me is the focuser, i am going to replace it with this...

http://agenaastro.com/gso-1-25-reflector-crayford-focuser-single-speed.html#product_tabs_power_reviews

I know its still a 1.25 but all my ep's are this size and to be honest i dont need a 2" ep nor does this size scope warrant it for me for the added cost, it was a budget buy ultimately.

When mine came the collimation was way off, a Skywatcher issue i can confirm as when i went to adjust the 4 retaining screws that hold the plastic cell in place it was also lightly

glued into position so i had to "crack" this seal before i could adjust the cell. Although strange moving it around a 4 fixing system it collimated easily and now performs brilliant.

I personally couldnt be happier with my 150p and at £344 delivered, a true bargain and a proper chuck in the car and observe scope, exactly what i need right now to get back into

this life long hobby.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Lee.

 

Thanks Lee.

 

I have also been looking at focusers as most reviews i have read state the supplied one as the only real let down.

 

Have you actually fitted the new one yet?  Let me know how you get on.

 

Thanks.

[Guest]

No problem Mark, i have just asked 365Astro to see if they can supply me with the unbranded version as GSO make these units but supply them to other suppliers that dont put a name on them,

365 do the unbranded 2" version so If they can supply me with an unbranded 1.25 one thats great otherwise i will order the linked GSO one from the USA.

When i fit it i will be sure to do a pictorial of the process i intend to adopt, i will totally dismantle the whole OTA and may even flock it ?? but i will share that here and let you know.

Good look buddy

 

Note :- the supplied focuser is horrendous  !!!! i mean the play in the 1.25 tube is that bad that getting a laser collimator to sit in the same place twice is almost impossible, so i am looking

forward to collimating it even better, although i am still super happy with my result i know i can get it slightly better but yer, the focuser is the only issue for me...

It MASSIVELY lets down an excellent scope.

[Alan64]

I've considered that GSO 1.25" focusser myself.  It would be an excellent investment, for a current Newtonian and one in future. 

The issue with the plastic focusser, among other aspects, was one of the main reasons why I suggested the Sky-Watcher 6" f/5 standalone instead, and with its metal 2"/1.25" two-speed unit.

A 1.25" 50° 30mm ocular does realise 25x in magnification, and a considerable field-of-view when used with a 6" f/5.   

[popeye85]

On ‎24‎/‎01‎/‎2016 at 12:12, LeeRich said:

HI, i also have this scope, and for the money its an awesome peace of kit, again as mentioned the only let down for me is the focuser, i am going to replace it with this...

http://agenaastro.com/gso-1-25-reflector-crayford-focuser-single-speed.html#product_tabs_power_reviews

I know its still a 1.25 but all my ep's are this size and to be honest i dont need a 2" ep nor does this size scope warrant it for me for the added cost, it was a budget buy ultimately.

When mine came the collimation was way off, a Skywatcher issue i can confirm as when i went to adjust the 4 retaining screws that hold the plastic cell in place it was also lightly

glued into position so i had to "crack" this seal before i could adjust the cell. Although strange moving it around a 4 fixing system it collimated easily and now performs brilliant.

I personally couldnt be happier with my 150p and at £344 delivered, a true bargain and a proper chuck in the car and observe scope, exactly what i need right now to get back into

this life long hobby.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Lee.

 

just checked mine and it needs collimating. I've not done this before and am a bit unsure. what process did you go through? I know that there are plenty of videos online on how to collimate scopes but the 'cracking the seal' bit has put doubts in my mind!! any chance you could put up a quick walkthrough on the different stages?

Cheers.

[Guest]

Hi  popeye,  here is what i did. 

Firstly because the focuser is a bit toys-r-us it's now that you will see its inadequacy compared to the rest of the scopes quality. Center your collimator as best you can, it's hard because of the amount of play there is in the draw tube but once happy start the process.

The secondary collimates as normal.

Now in my scope the rear cell was glued in so once I had loosened the 4 holding screws it didn't budge so i had to remove all the screws and with the utmost care, hug the tube with one arm and gently start to pull the cell out moving around its perimeter a little at a time with constant pulling pressure...its when I head a 'crack' that I knew it was also held with glue. DONT WORRY this noise is an adhesive separation type and NOT a glass cracking sound lol

Once this seal broke the cell comes out a treat....hold it with your life lol. I then picked off the glue residue and then put the cell back in easily.

Note :- when reinserting notice a notch in the cell that staggers the tubes rolled seam.

Now collimate the mirror by replacing the 4 screws and leaving them lose enough to push pull the cell, align and tighten.....check again, if your happy give the screws an extra 1/8 of a turn and your done ? happy days.

Now take the collimator out.... put it back in and now realize why I whinged about the focuser lol it will read a different red dot position. Now rather then re collimate, turn/adjust it till the red dot is again back central in the primary and it should then read true for the primary mirror reflection back to the collimator. 

This for me is why I have just ordered a new focuser, so I don't have to mess about hoping the collimator is in the exact same position it was when I did it last.

Hope this helps pal. Let us know how you get on and maybe yours isn't even glued ? 

Just remember while pulling to hold that cell like your life depended on it ?

Good luck.

Lee.

[happy-kat]

With perhaps  a duvet folded on the floor underneath just in case as an idea.