Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

DSLR that is also good for AP?


CountBorgula

Recommended Posts

My wife and I are off to Sri-Lanka for a few weeks in February.  She is a keen amateur photographer, and wants to get an entry-level DSLR to take with us.  I was hoping to get something that I could also use for some AP, I am total beginner at that.  I am planning to sell my "light-bucket" dobsonian to get a scope more suited to AP.  This question is about the camera though.  We are currently considering the Canon 1200D, does anyone have any thoughts or opinions on how this performs a beginners AP camera?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The filter curve for a Canon implies that it will pass about 20% of the Ha wavelength.

The filter curve for a Nikon implies that it will pass about 10% of the Ha wavelength.

So in those terms the Canon is "better".

I would assume that there is some sort of software applied, but no direct knowledge.

The other camera (general) is the Sony and although I have a Sony I cannot locate the filter characteristics for their item. This includes asking Sony UK direct and after 6 weeks getting a reply that they had asked back at Sony Japan and apparently no-one knew the detail of the filter incorporated. Which seems more then a little strange since the software in the camera has to operate with the filter throughput.

If you remove the filter from the Canon's or the Nikon's you will change the colour balance and normal photography will therefore have the colour balance altered. It is very much a case of one or the other but not both.

Canon do or did produce a DSLR for AP, designation was nnnDA, not sure how good they were at standard photography. CAtch was they are/were so costly you may as well buy 2 normal Canon's and modify one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume that it is possible to remove the Canon IR cut filter for astronomy then use a clip filter of the same characteristics for normal use.

Would mean continuously checking which filter was in the optical path, but that might get around the dual use.

Not sure how the AF would perform, should be OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume that it is possible to remove the Canon IR cut filter for astronomy then use a clip filter of the same characteristics for normal use.

Would mean continuously checking which filter was in the optical path, but that might get around the dual use.

Not sure how the AF would perform, should be OK.

My 600D Modded by Cheapastro, under normal use is set for Astro-P, but by sliding the Blue and Green RGB sliders over returnes to daylight Photography, this is not luck but Juan at Cheapastro altered the Firmware to give the camera this option, a picture taken with the sliders in the Daylight position

garden17-4.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The filter curve for a Canon implies that it will pass about 20% of the Ha wavelength.

The filter curve for a Nikon implies that it will pass about 10% of the Ha wavelength.

So in those terms the Canon is "better".

Oh dear :(  Look, you really cannot take some random number from internet and state it as all applying fact here.

In other words your "Nikon 10% Ha" simply is not right. Instead Ha response with modern unmodified bodies are pretty much alike with both brands, excluding D810a/60Da of course, but there is a reason for them.

Here is an easy example with google search. According my information it should apply to all Nikon Exmor sensor generation cameras:

NikonD810TransmissionCurve,sm.png

But it's not only the IR-filter that matters if we want to go deeper. Sensor technology including RGB filter array makes a spectral response difference between cameras as well. However the changes are rather small compared to filter modified camera, so my recommendation is too that you should modify your camera if you really wish to get the Ha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh dear :(  Look, you really cannot take some random number from internet and state it as all applying fact here.

In other words your "Nikon 10% Ha" simply is not right. Instead Ha response with modern unmodified bodies are pretty much alike with both brands, excluding D810a/60Da of course, but there is a reason for them.

Here is an easy example with google search. According my information it should apply to all Nikon Exmor sensor generation cameras:

My Sony A7S has a very similar response to that Nikon 810 curve.  I removed the filters and tested them.  The A7S passes approx. 20% at the Ha wavelength.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an 1100d which I originally used for daytime photography and also astro with an ED80pro scope. Easy to attach, light weight on the end of the scope. Easily controllable from pc or laptop with the native Canon software or third party programmes like APT or Backyard EOS (both very good). Mine is astro modded now but I got some pleasing results even unmodded. I think the 1200d would be a good choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another vote for the 1100D.  It is capable of great astronomy shots and unmodded will great for galaxies, clusters and star fields.  You can buy a modified one and set a custom white balance.  The modified ones with a Baader BCF filter provide the easiest to achieve good daylight white balance. Juan at Cheapastrophotgraphy sells a Baader filter modified 1200D for around £350.

The only catch is the manufacturers warranty is invalid.

On the matter of the tilt screen, if you have an Android phone with 'USB host mode' facility, you can control the camera and see liveview and final pictures direct on your phone using a cheap OTG lead and 'DSLR controller' software.

I hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just go Canon, there is so much hardware and software support for doing AP with this brand. The sensor performance is very important but by no means everything. I regard LiveView as essential for framing and focusing but other people manage fine without it. A 1200D would be an excellent start. I use a pair of 1100Ds; the 1200D is its immediate successor. Pixel counts are not very important; any modern camera has more than enough for a starter. Ease of use is vital to early success....

Do you intend to use it stand-alone or controlled with a PC? If stand-alone then other brands might be worth a look but all the PC software I've used is heavily biased towards Canon.

RL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're in with deep pockets th Nikon D810a is an option the test pictures on the Nikon litterature appear good and the boast a 900 second sub time and multiple exposures. The sales lit states it is also easily a dual purpose camera but one of its draw backs is its 36megapixel count meaning it eats up memory cards like they were floppy disk drives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 1200d is being used by members and is an entry level dslr camera by Canon. If you want to buy new and it is in budget why not.

If you are happy with second hand then I would look at the 600d for the swivel screen.

You don't say what your budget is.

There is always the what make threads personally I got a Canon because as a beginner there is just so much support available for a Canon camera.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having looked online if you donthave a terrestrial DSlr there are some good deals with the Canon 1200 D I believe for £300 that major store that sells all things electrical has a bundle with 2 lenses suitable for both day and night shots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been looking at the Nikon D5200, mainly for the price, and I was going to spend the money on lenses, but still not 100%. I would like to know if any members on here use any of the Nikon cameras for AP.

Looking forwards to hearing what the rest think.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the Nikon 5200, I can't answer directly because I haven't used one.  There are comments on Cloudy Nights that compared with the D5100 or D5300, the D5200 is the "orphan" of the range because it uses a Toshiba sensor instead of a Sony sensor.  The Toshiba sensor used in the D5200 has more amp glow:  http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/486653-excessive-amp-glow-on-a-new-d5200

All 3 models clip their black levels which makes it difficult to perform dark subtraction which may or may not be an issue for you.  However the D5100 has a hack available to switch off this clipping: https://nikonhacker.com/wiki/Supported_Models

In the end, Canon is always the safe choice.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there Mark, which camera or cameras do you use?

John

I am currently using a modified Sony A7S but I cannot recommend it for long exposure deep-sky astro.   However it is good for real time video (or short exposures) of the night sky, aurorae, meteors, satellites and similar.

I would avoid Sony Cameras altogether at the present time.

Main reasons:

1) Lack of software support - especially for doing long exposures

2) Sony applies in-camera spatial filtering ("star-eater") in bulb-mode (which is needed for long exposures)

3) My A7S is affected by weird banding problems caused by some kind of left/right "join" down the middle of the sensor.  At the current time no-one is sure which other  cameras might be similarly affected.  I'm preparing some evidence to send to Sony.

More info on the A7S here:  http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/243671-review-of-the-sony-a7s/

Sony sensors used in other cameras (e.g. in Nikon cameras) are generally excellent.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.