iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 hi all just starting and need advice i have a nikon camera that i am going to mount on my heq5 synscan goto mount,need a few answers if possible,1 does the synscan have two operating modes ie goto and tracking for timed astrophotography2 do i need to polar align the mount manually or does the synscan system do that for you thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornelius Varley Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 hi all just starting and need advice i have a nikon camera that i am going to mount on my heq5 synscan goto mount,need a few answers if possible,1 does the synscan have two operating modes ie goto and tracking for timed astrophotography2 do i need to polar align the mount manually or does the synscan system do that for you thanks1. The mount has both. Once the goto command has been completed the mount returns to simple sidereal rate tracking until another goto command has been issued by the user..2. The user (yourself) does the initial polar alignment. There is then a polar alignment routine within the firmware which can verify the accuracy of the polar alignment and gives a numerical readout of the accuracy. The user (again yourself) can further adjust the polar alignment until the error reading is reduced. The handset itself cannot, however, do the polar alignment for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beamer3.6m Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 You have to polar align yourself.The synscan will basically confirm how close you are but it will not do it for you.Good tracking is not easy without guiding via another camera/laptop etc.You have to be realistic and expect that astrophotography is a massive learning curve which we have all struggled to climb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 thanks for that is there a polar align setup for this mount you can recommend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinker1947 Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 The one in the Handset, it does require you a do a 2 Star Alignment, then the Polar Alignment routine will show up, not sure a DSLR would do this a ST-80 would work and also be a guide scope further down the road..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beamer3.6m Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Basically it goes like this:1. Plonk the mount on the ground with the 'N' pointing north.Try and line it up by eye with the North Star.2. Rotate the Dec axis so you can see through the polar scope.3. Rotate the DEC axis again until the stars in the sky match those on the polar scope reticle.4. Move the mount via the ALT and RA adjusters (not the bit the scope sits on but the actual screw adjusters) until Polaris (the north star) is seen in the little circle in the polar scope reticle - the position of this circle will move depending on the position of the other stars in the sky etc. It makes sense when you look through the polar scope.That's it. The accuracy depends on how long you spend doing this. Really good accuracy takes time and you can spend more time lining it up than you do actually taking a picture.I'm not sure of your knowledge level with EQ mounts / scopes etc so just take your time to enjoy the scope/mount and learn as you.Many a scope has been sold because of the images seen on this forum which cannot be achieved in 10 minutes. The reality is it is difficult.Not putting you off but just keeping it realistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigg Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I found these useful when starting up. Astronomy shed has a whole series of youtube videos for setup. First one is here: Start with the tripod, get it as level as you can, then add the mount, counterweights and scope. Next you want to balance the scope in the dovetail, and the counterweights. Then you can start polar alignment. For photography you want to take your time over these. I'll often take 30-40 mins doing this and calibrating with 3 star alignment.There are apps for your smart phone that are useful. I use Clinonometer to level the tripod, compass to get an approx. north bearing if setting up before stars are visible. I also use an app called PolarAlign which shows you the position of polaris in the polar scope, although you can just use the positions of Ursa Major and Cassiopeia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 thanks been using this video till it gets to the point where it locks off the ra scale (15mins 58 secs) this scale cannot be locked at any other position apart from 0 on the heq5 pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 No it can't and I can't remember the reason why.I am just starting out with my HEQ5 Pro and in all fairness I found the instructions very confusing! It was much easier to use something like this http://myastroimages.com/Polar_FinderScope_by_Jason_Dale/ to align Polaris in the polarscope. This page explains a bit more how to do it. http://arnholm.org/astro/polar_alignment/My preference is to align without the scope or weights on the mount to make it a bit easier.HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendg Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I have the bigger brother to this mount, but what I do should work for you.1) align the tripod so the N leg points north2) level the tripod and add the mount.3) get polaris in view in the polar scope (this just confirms that the tripod is pointing north) using the altitude and azimuth bolts.4) plop on the scope and camera and get everything balanced5) do a 2 star alignment6) do a polar alignment (with the polar alignment routine in the hand set)7) do a 2 star alignment (I usually do a 3 star alignment here just because )You can do another polar alignment if needed or as many as you like. Just always make sure you do a 2 or 3 star alignment after the polar alignment.I use the my DSLR camera and BYEOS to get the stars dead center.I can usually get 4+ minute subs now.I just use the setting circles to help me get to a parked position when I really screw things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendg Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Just as an afterthought. The Synscan manual I got with the mount didn't have info on the handset polar alignment routine, but the latest manual on line at Skywatcher does.It really works a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thalestris24 Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 HiI think I mentioned before that if you're just going to use a camera and lens (up to maybe 200 or 300mm) then you can get away with just roughly polar aligning i.e. point the mount true north. Then either use the polarscope or the camera viewfinder and adjust the azimuth and latitude knobs on the mount to get Polaris in the fov. That will probably be good enough for fairly short exposures.Louise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 thanks guys getting there just a couple more questions1 do i start the synscan setup when im parked in the home positionis this the correct parked positionpic 2 (1) by iwols, on Flickr2 when in the parked position the cross hairs in the ra axis are not straight up and down(vertical and horizontal)pic 2 (2) by iwols, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yearofthegoat Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 My HEQ5 is packed up at the moment (blowing a gale outside ) but I'm fairly sure that doesn't matter. All you need to do is get Polaris on the circle's edge and adjust your alt and az bolts such that it stays there when you turn the RA axis around. If it does it means your mount is pointed at the celestial pole (where the crosshairs cross in your image). It's just that Polaris is easier to see. I think of it as getting that circle to match an imaginary circle Polaris would draw as it goes around the pole.I have to get the kids to bed and cook dinner for when SWMBO gets in but I'll fish out my mount later if you like (you've got me thinking, to be honest!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 My HEQ5 is packed up at the moment (blowing a gale outside ) but I'm fairly sure that doesn't matter. All you need to do is get Polaris on the circle's edge and adjust your alt and az bolts such that it stays there when you turn the RA axis around. If it does it means your mount is pointed at the celestial pole (where the crosshairs cross in your image). It's just that Polaris is easier to see.I have to get the kids to bed and cook dinner for when SWMBO gets in but I'll fish out my mount later if you like (you've got me thinking, to be honest!).really appreciate that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 really appreciate thatthought i had to align polaris with a set point on the circle that i use the polar finder app for? and this always seems to be straight up and downUntitled by iwols, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yearofthegoat Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 When I started using mine, I got on with doing the setting circles and dry-run polar alignment indoors, and just confused the hell out of myself.I think it was the Astronomyshed videos on YouTube that made me realise that all you need to do is get Polaris on the circle and make sure it remains on the circle when you turn the RA axis around - which of course simulates you tracking the night sky as it appears to turn above us.The diagrams of Cassiopeia and Ursa Major are there for orientation and for getting the setting circles in the right place IIRC. But lots of people on here either think they're rubbish or don't use them, or both. So I've kind-of dispensed with them (I might come back to that later as it can be useful to know how to use them). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yearofthegoat Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Yep - that will tell you where on the circle polaris is supposed to be at a given time. This makes sure you don't get it on the wrong bit of the circle, if you see what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yearofthegoat Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Am also thinking: if you have live view on your camera and can see Polaris using that, is there a setting which displays a grid on the screen? Then you could choose a known point on the screen and do a 2-star alignment followed by polar alignment using the Synscan handset. Just a thought! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yearofthegoat Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I found this particularly helpful:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcctN4xVXnI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thalestris24 Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 thought i had to align polaris with a set point on the circle that i use the polar finder app for? and this always seems to be straight up and downUntitled by iwols, on FlickrOnly if you're using it with a scope - the longer the focal length, the more critical the PA. But you're only using a camera and lens? Which lens?Louise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Only if you're using it with a scope - the longer the focal length, the more critical the PA. But you're only using a camera and lens? Which lens?Louisetwo i will be using probably 500mm and 14mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 thats why i was wondering about the cross hatch position to start with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thalestris24 Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 two i will be using probably 500mm and 14mmAt 14mm PA won't matter. At 500mm it will with longer exposures, but without guiding you might need to drift align - easier with computer control. What sort of targets did you have in mind?Louise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwols Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 not quite sure really orion neb would hopefully be an easy start for a total beginner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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