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About bishbosh

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  1. With my new imaging kit I don't have a timeframe yet for setting up for guided imaging. Mainly because once I manage to get everything in the car, travel the 3 miles to the dark sky site (Durham Dales, milky way easily visible with naked eye ) I found I've invariably either left a counterweight at home or the cable to connect the laptop to the battery pack so after half setting up I have to pack it all in and go home
  2. Hi all, I bought this eyepiece what seems like months ago but never got a chance to use it with all the recent bad weather. Anyway, Friday night, clear sky and I thought 'it's now or never!' So I drag the HEQ5 Pro downstairs - not easy with a poorly arm and go back up for the EPs and the telescope. I planned to observe only this session so once the scope was set up I did a basic polar alignment. Then I did a 2 star alignment as Vega - one of the few stars I know - happened to be behind a tree Then came the moment, took the Morpheus out of it's case, the lens sparkling just waiting to be used. I slipped it into the focusser and nothing. Just a white disc reminiscent of those mirrors that doctors stick to their heads. Then realised I was looking at the secondary mirror or something like that. After sliding the EP further out of the focusser I was able to focus this disc into a pinpoint of light Time to go star hopping. With my scope this EP gives approx 154x magnification compared to the Skywatcher 28mm which gives about 36x M39 open cluster - amazing! Never seen so many stars in one place! Neptune was sadly behind my house in the southern sky and I have a north facing garden but I did manage to find Uranus which appeared as a small blue disc. Pleiades was less impressive with this EP than with the Skywatcher simply because of the narrower field of view, but Andromeda and the Orion nebula showed a lot more detail Tried to find Uranus again but it was faint - then realised the sky was getting quite hazy and my hands were falling off with the cold so I called it a night. So, how did it compare to the much cheaper 28mm? I found the 28mm easier to focus. Of course with higher magnification then vibrations are also magnified so that could explain the difficulty I had with focussing. Just breathing nearby seemed to make the scope wobble. I found that with the Morpheus if your eye is only slightly off axis or to close or far away then you get blackness. Is this the kidney bean effect? The 28mm seems to be more forgiving in this respect. However I did really like the fact I finally spotted a planet, can't wait for a clear morning to see Venus or Jupiter In conclusion I'm very happy with this EP, enjoyment can only be increased by keeping my eye still and perhaps learning to use it properly Cheers
  3. Have you seen the Baader Morpheus EPs? They do a 12.5mm one and are suitable for bino-viewing. The 12.5mm one has 20mm eye relief and 76 deg FOV.
  4. Have you tried to change the slew rate during alignment? It slews quite slowly during alignment unless you change the Rate setting.
  5. That looks like a really quick and simple(!) method to polar align, being quite tall myself I hate crouching on the floor headbutting my polarscope when I want to align the mount. I don't have a permanent setup and for the foreseeable future all my observing will be done in the back garden so anything that saves time here would be a bonus.
  6. The 12 o'clock mark on my reticule points at roughly the 5 o'clock position iirc. So for example if I need to set Polaris to let's say 7pm I would locate Polaris on the setting circle to roughly where I think 7pm would be. In theory I could remove the telescope and weights and rotate the R.A. axis until the reticule is the right way up and then align the mount to Polaris, the result should be the same anyway. Are you planning to do astrophotography? Even with my rough alignment I can get half decent 120 second exposures, 5 minute ones are pushing it though. I think (not sure) that if you go for a guided setup then then accurate polar alignment isn't as critical.
  7. I tried last night to turn the R.A. axis with the clutch disengaged and the reticule didn't turn so I expect it would have to be done as per Lonestar70's instructions. Personally I don't think I'll bother as knowing me I'd probably damage the reticule.
  8. I'm wondering this too. For the time being I use the Synscan handset to tell me where to put Polaris in the polar scope but currently the reticule itself is almost upside down with '0' near the 7 o'clock position.
  9. That got me too at first until I realised pressing the Rate button then a number allowed me to move the scope a lot quicker!
  10. I use a Nikon myself. With regards to various settings the models higher up the range are more configurable. The Nikon D7000 for example has a setting for long exposure noise reduction which for AP you would want turned off. Admittedly the intervalometer is rubbish which is why I use a separate remote. Possibly on consumer Nikons, D3000,D5000 etc you might not have been able to turn off this setting. There is also a rangefinder feature where the camera will indicate correct focus when using manual lenses. Not sure if the 'lesser' bodies have this but I expect they would if they don't have the screw drive on the lens mount.
  11. Lovely! I wish I could get something half as good as that. The spikes or whatever they are called look quite long, was that how it came out or were they post-processed?
  12. Well, I took the plunge and bought one of these beauties It was smaller than I was expecting but then remembered that they are a good choice for bino viewing. Anyway, dying to get out and it's looking clear tomorrow night so a first light running report will be made when I can. No afocal photography yet as I will need to buy the appropriate adaptor. Here it is against the SW 28mm let. It arrived in a cardboard box with a handy pouch for storage. There was also a rubber eyecup in the box.
  13. I'm not sure either really. The Synscan hand controller shows the coordinates of the target in the sky and these seem to constantly update. The mount also makes a faint swish-swish-swish sound so maybe it is tracking the object on the R.A axis. I haven't studied the manual too much so if anyone could clarify if that's the case it would be appreciated. If it is indeed tracking I presume it's ok but not good enough for long long exposures in which case you'd need to autoguide.
  14. Thanks for that detailed feedback. On the contrary this criticism really helps, you've mentioned things that I hadn't considered at all at the time, such as ensuring my camera is at least at the correct orientation to capture large objects. I shall try DSS and see what that makes of them. I really don't have a clue about post-processing so I expect that will be a steep learning curve. The glow possibly could have come from the neighbour who had a bright light on during my observing session, I had to stand in between the scope and the light otherwise the light would hit the top few inches of the tube, I expect this is where the glow came from. There weren't any clouds at least none I could see. I'm not sure what you mean by I've caught the middle ground of the exposure time, do you mean that 2 minutes is a fair amount of time per exposure? Anyway, I hope I'll remember these points for next time Cheers
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