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Gina's DIY All Sky Cam - Complete Redesign


Gina

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It's now just about dark enough to go to 60s exposure.  Dew heating ie. dome temperature is about 3C above ambient and so far no dew.

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Reduced the gain a little and the image is better.   I caught a brief glimpse of The Plough just before this image.  I'm recording an overnight AVI file now so single shots have to be screenshots rather than PNG saves.

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I don't need a saw - just a screwdriver to undo the jubilee clip that secures it to the fence post :D  I shall be moving it but it might still be visible in the all sky camera - it's my weather station mast for the wind instruments.  I shall be producing a new weather station sometime.

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I was going to attach the weather station mast to the observatory but my observations from trying to mount the all sky camera on a pole/mast attached to the building show this to be impractical.  And, as you say, it obstructs the ASC view where it is let alone a few feet closer.  So it's going soimewhere else - probably on the corner of the goat shed some 15m away to the north.

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Have you got a saw to remove that unsightly post?

Richard

I won't be taking the current weather station mast down until I have something else to show me the wind direction and strength - I can see the wind instruments while I'm sitting on the settee in front of my desktop PC through the smaller east facing window, so I get the info even without the electronics working :)

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Here are some photos of the cables fed into the observatory.

Cables enter the roof near the apex.

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Held out from the side to avoid catching on the storm fastening as the roof opens.

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Passing through the partition wall. 

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The roof partly open with the cables curling and looping all over the place.  The piece of cardboard stops any loops catching on the corner.  I think maybe the cables could do with holding together somehow.

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Roof fully open.  The cables straightened out again across the roof of the warm room.

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Some clear sky forecast for tonight and everything is set up and working using the Asus laptop running Win 7 64bit Home Premium.  Imaging with Sharpcap and control using the Arduino IDE with Serial Display.  I'm planning to develop a Python based GUI for control rather than the MS Visual Basic front end developed earlier.  I am not bothering to use VB any more as command line is adequate until I do the Python version for Linux.  That's even if I bother with a graphical front end just for myself as I'm quite happy with a command line version.

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I got a little misting in a band across the top of the dome in the early hours so it needs a bit more dew heating.  I think the best option now is probably to add extra dew heating with resistors with on/off control.

Here is a still screenshot from the overnight video, flipped the right way up and cropped in Photoshop.

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Here is a screenshot of an image just captured with the lens aperture just very slightly open.  This can hardly be called a proper aperture control (iris) as it has only two blades and it isn't quite centred nor in the best position in the optical path as it casts a shadow.  Maybe it's adequate at larger apertures.  This lens is not designed for use in an all sky camera with the enormous light intensity range that I'm trying.  It is a CCTV lens presumably intended for surveillance use. 

As seems usual for me, I'm pushing things well past their intended operating conditions :D  I don't know if there is a lens with a more standard iris capable of closing down enough for this application but with the large aperture needed for nighttime and very short focal length, I think it would probably be very expensive.  With this design of all sky camera, I'm not using either the most suitable imaging device or the best lens.

A bit later...  Been thinking about the image below and I'm sure I was doing better a while back with daytime imaging.  I think something has changed.  One thing I know of is the zoom - this affects the focus and it could well affect the aperture control as well I would think.  Anyway, I'm leaving it for a while and looking at some of my other projects.

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I shall be having a rest from further development of this project - I need a break and I think it's working well enough for night skies for now.  I have a few comments on the performance I'm currently getting.

Firstly for night sky :-

  1. Camera covers the full 180 degrees with reasonable resolution but...
  2. Stars elongate the further they are from the centre - this seems to be a lens problem.
  3. Dark noise is adequately eradicated with the Peltier TEC cooling.
  4. Dew heating seems adequate for most conditions but more heating would be good.

Secondly for daytime :-

  1. Old QHY5 is too sensitive.
  2. Aperture control on lens can't quite allow for the above.
  3. A colour camera is more suitable for daytime to distinguish between blue sky and dark clouds.

Conclusion :-  ASC is adequate for night use but is failing for daytime.

Possible further development :-

  1. Add extra dew heating.
  2. Add LDR input to Arduino to reduce aperture during daytime.
  3. Consider a different camera for image sensing to cover daytime use.

Regarding 3. above, the QHY5L-II-C (or the ZWO equivavlent) seems a far better option than the old QHY5.  See my post in best camera for all sky use, post #219 (bottom of page).

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Tried PHD2 instead of Sharpcap for daytime imaging - much better :)  Makes daytime imaging work!  I need Sharpcap with it's long exposures for night sky use.  I'm looking forward to having oaCapture available for longer exposures :)  Not really pressing you James :D

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