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heads up for cheap new sammy 2000 on fleabay £36 inc


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Adam, not only does a crummy cheap factory fitted IR filter block the infrared in objetcs, it also blocks around 75% of Hydrogen Alpha which is what Emission Nebulas are seen in.

If you want to get the best of both worlds (sharp stars and H-alpha) there are specific filters which still block IR but allow the H-alpha through.

The Astronomik filter I linked to above cuts off the IR but leaves the important H-alpha line in place. This results in sharp stars, and great Nebula, but at the loss of most IR objetcs.

There is always compromise.

To give you an example of hoW a factory fitted IR filter makes a huge difference to Emission Nebula, have a look at the comparison of M42 with a factory IR and without.

This comparison was done using a Canon 350d DSLR:

attachicon.gifDSLR-IR.jpg

Reference: http://cheapastrophotography.vpweb.co.uk/Mission-Statement.html

The most notable change in the two images is the H-alpha in the Emission Nebula. By using an Astronomik UV/IR 'L' filter will allow that same Emission Nebula to reach the sensor but sharpen the stars better on the sensors we use for Video Astronomy. The above images are done with a DSLR where star bloat isn't as obvious.

Here is the Astronomik Filter graph showing how the H-alpha line is still visible and not cut-off:

attachicon.gifH-aplha-line.jpg

Yep - I knew about the effect on emission nebulae - been using a modded DSLR for imaging for a few years now - was amazed the amount of extra nebulosity i piked up the first time I imaged, for example, the horsehead following modification.  

How much difference does not using any IR filter at all make on some galaxies?  As I'll often be using a reflector, would you recommend leaving oft Astro IR/UV filter for most stuff then?

Good info about just how poor the factory-fitted filters are too :)

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Adam, leave the good quality Astronomy IR filter on for most things like Nebs and Star clusters. It will give you sharper better looking stars.

But when you want to find those very faint Galaxy Clusters, they really pop without the filter.

Try it yourself and see the difference. Go to a really busy Galaxy Cluster with bright and faint members like my favourite Abell cluster 'Abell 1367' also known as the Leo Cluster.

Try it with the filter, then without and you'll notice that the fainter Galaxies will show up better without the filter. 

You will need to re-focus between with and without the filter.

Some Galaxies change quite a lot. The ones that show up best in Infrared are Galaxies with lots of dust and Stellar Nurseries because in most, up to 80% of the star-forming dust is in the Infrared. Also Colliding galaxies tend to glow in the Infrared.

Without the filter you will also see some red stars that were invisible when using the filter. Maybe even tiny red Galaxies you didn't even know where there.

Some good samples of large dusty star-forming galaxies are Whirlpool, Pinwheel, M83 etc.

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Help!  I have now got the Samsung 2000P camera and removed the stock filter.  I thought I would try a daylight test of the camera, so duly set up with my scope, debut capture software etc.  

I have perfectly good images... except only in Black and White.   When I switch to colour I get blue and yellow bands static bands up and down the screen.  

I have looked for any necessary adjustment in both the capture software and the camera set up and can see no obvious reason for it.   

Unfortunately I did not see the advice about not buying cheap capture devices until after I got one (which I now know is chinese rip off of the EZcap) and I am wondering if it is down to this?

** Also I am getting sharp horizontal lines darting across the screen every so often... maybe the cable I am using is no good too? **

Any hints?

Thanks 

SkySpy

Are you using a shielded cable? I noticed with a cheap non shielded cable that my cams (Watec 120 n and DSO-1) I got interference patterns on my screen - a  shielded video cable sorted it

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ngwillym - Thanks for the comments re shielded cable.   To tell the truth I am not sure. I am using a stock BNC co-ax cable which I kind of assumed would be shielded anyway but perhaps it it's not.

I have the new genuine EZCap module coming soon, so I will try that first and if I am still getting the lines then the matter of shielding will be addressed.  It may also be a matter of addressing the 

security of the actual BNC connectors themselves.. they are really flaky and the slightest movement seems to produce spikes and signal loss.

SkySpy

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Can anyone comment on whether a  Bahtinov Mask is of particular assistance when it comes to focusing an image for video astronomy, or is it an unnecessary expense?

(I was looking to post this question in another topic but could not seem to find one.. so apologies if its in the wrong place).

SkySPy

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Can anyone comment on whether a  Bahtinov Mask is of particular assistance when it comes to focusing an image for video astronomy, or is it an unnecessary expense?

(I was looking to post this question in another topic but could not seem to find one.. so apologies if its in the wrong place).

SkySPy

That's how I focus for each Video session.

I wack on the Bahtinov, get focus perfect, then remove it. Takes me about 1 minute to do.

If at any time during the night the focus looks fuzzy it's only a matter of putting the mask back on again to check it.

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That's how I focus for each Video session.

I wack on the Bahtinov, get focus perfect, then remove it. Takes me about 1 minute to do.

If at any time during the night the focus looks fuzzy it's only a matter of putting the mask back on again to check it.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I can see the appeal of a flip mirror set up and I may well invest in one someday but on cost grounds with a decent flip mirror

being anywhere from £50-£100, the cost of a Bahtinov screen at less than £20 seems a good starting point.  My main concern 

was would it aid the quality of the video images... and if its part of Dragon Man's routine then that's good enough for me!

Actually just found a tailored screen (105-150mm) from Wex Photographic for just £12 .50 plus post :smiley: 

http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-starwave-bahtinov-mask-for-105-150mm-o-d/p1552063?cm_mmc=googlebase-extension-_-astronomy-accessories-_-bahtinov-focusing-masks-_-starwave-bahtinov-mask-for-105-150mm-o-d_1552063&utm_source=googlebase-extension&cm_mmc=google+-+warehouse+cameras+%26+lenses-_-shopping+-+other+products-_-&mkwid=kdpaz1hp&pcrid=72342100209&gclid=cm_zz5upumucfybitaodma4alq#details

SkySpy

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There was a template for the bahtinov mask on the internet ..print out on card and cut it out..fix to scope..worked great then I bought a plastic one..

I got my flip mirror for £30 odd pounds from ebay.. was more of an asset than the mask

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I am posting this here, as I opened a new topic on "EZCap Installation problems" but have had no replies yet. 

I purchased a genuine EZCap.tv Model 116 capture device after the cheap (fake) copy I first bought proved only to work properly in B&W (Colour showed overlayed red/green vertical bands which I could not get rid of).

However it has been less than a successful enterprise!  :BangHead:

The EZCap was duly installed, drivers in place etc.  The result... nothing (black screen).  Checked camera against a TV composite input and all checks out, so camera is fine.  Checked power, checked device drivers are correct, checked software setup was selected for composite input and PAL_I settings (UK standard).

Nothing..Zip!  Not even the cameras UTC menu coming up, showing that the capture device was processing nothing at all.

I have been in touch with EZCap Support, who came back quickly..suggesting a couple of settings to check, but more remarkably (and I quote here) they said:

"...we have not tested the product with a bnc to phono cable. It may not work".

"It may not work???... So my question is now.. are we talking about me having the wrong model of EZCap?  

Maybe everyone out there is using a different (older?) model which somehow works, and this latest one doesn't?

Or have I just been unlucky and ended up with a rare duffer! 

(Update: EZCap have just said they will send me a replacement.. So we will see.

BTW You cannot fault their after sales service, they have been prompt and no hassle all the way, so 10/10 on that front at least.

SKySpy

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Hello SkySpy,

I do not use EZcap so I can't offer much advice accept to say that I use the Dazzle DVC100 and have never had an issue.  This is BNC to phono adapter plugged into the Dazzle and job done.  Might be worth checking Ebay as there are plenty of used Dazzles on there so if you can find one cheap it might be worth a punt.  Don't let it put you off though as that little camera will produce some excellent results and when it does you will want to capture and share :)

Best of luck!

Karl

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Hello SkySpy,

I do not use EZcap so I can't offer much advice accept to say that I use the Dazzle DVC100 and have never had an issue.  This is BNC to phono adapter plugged into the Dazzle and job done.  Might be worth checking Ebay as there are plenty of used Dazzles on there so if you can find one cheap it might be worth a punt.  Don't let it put you off though as that little camera will produce some excellent results and when it does you will want to capture and share :)

Best of luck!

Karl

Thanks Karl

I will bear that in mind just in case the replacement that EZCap are sending doesn't work...  but it must be I got a duff unit as there are so many others in the forum who are using EZ and are happy with it.

SkySpy

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"...we have not tested the product with a bnc to phono cable. It may not work"

Spy, what is a Phono cable?

You either use a Composite cable or S-Video cable.

Ken... Phono is the same as RCA.

Its just a very old style of connection that got its name from the fact that it was originally designed for "phonographic" (yes.. that old!) audio output, but amazingly it is still the same standard

connector you find on just about all VCR's, camcorder outputs, TV's and of course Capture devices.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector

SkySpy

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Hi All,

I found a good reference that gives terminology for different connectors and cable. I think the BNC to Phono comment meant connector not cable. Most analogue security video cams come with a BNC output, so an adapter is necessary to get it to the RCA/phono connector on the video capture device.

http://support.radioshack.com/SUPPORT_video/doc68/68379.htm

Don

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I ditched my phono/rca cables too much banding ..first time was my powed supply. .then phono/rca cable ..I use 75ohm coaxial cables with bnc..no problems now

I am Interested  how do you connect to your EZcap which comes with a Phono/Rca connector or have you modified the Ezcap cable ? I use BNC but still have to have a BNC to RCA/Phon adapter to connect to the grabber. Although for "at home" work I tend to use the DVR and no Ezcap.

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I use my camera via coaxial to my dvr ,the feed from the dvr is split with a three connector one to monitor and a bnc to rca connector to the usb grabber I record to both my laptop and dvr..I can process image on laptop while dvr records all four cameras

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SUCCESS!  :smiley: 

Have received the replacement EZCap 116 from the manufacturer to replace the first one supplied, and all works fine off the bat !

So it seems I was unfortunate enough to receive a duff unit.   I have not heard from anyone else on this topic so my guess is this a pretty rare event.

Nevertheless... EZCaps after sales and tech support was both very rapid and completely helpful, so despite the hick-up would highly recommend them  :icon_salut:

SkySpy

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Excellent news Spy!  :smiley:

Glad to hear you're on top of it now.

Yeah, I've never read of one problem anywhere on the internet about EzCap's Grabber. Yours is the first.

Whereas there's thousands of complaints about the fake chinese copies people flog off on ebay  :grin:

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