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Everything posted by SkySpy

  1. Booked for three nights. First time at this event and looking forward to meeting everyone. I will be bringing a Skywatcher 250P GoTo Dobsonian, and our camper van with central heating! SkySpy
  2. This info used to appear, but I have not used SGL for some time and it seems to have disappeared! I have checked my profile options but the ability to input equipment/interests ect. does not appear. Maybe because I have been offline a while it may take a few more posts to appear (I read elsewhere on SGL that the option to include this information is only available after you post ten times??). Anyway until I can resolve this I can at least here say I have a Celestron 925CPC (GPS enabled), using currently a Celestron Sky Portal wi-fi module for remote scope control running through NexRemote
  3. Thanks for all the contributions so far. I should have known that my aspiration for a completely wireless set up would give my wallet a bashing, but I can see the sense in going the extra mile financially. It would be nice though to know of anyone who has managed to achieve this type of wireless functionality on a "starter" budget (say sub £500 as opposed to nearly £1k+ which is what it seems it could cost once you factor in Camera, Focuser, mini-PC etc) Clearly I am going to have to create a staged and log term plan for all this, as I cant afford all the required kit at once... my first j
  4. Thank you RayD. I understand now what we are talking about. I have just done some digging on these devices called NUC's and realise the there are many versions of them but they are all essentially stripped down PC's with ports but no peripherals (I only mention this RayD for those like me who had never heard of them before). I also understand that RDP and Team Viewer are remote desktop software applications that enable the NUC to be controlled with the link to the NUC coming over Wifi. My only remaining question is over the telecope control. I can see how a digital output video camera would
  5. Thank you for that, but it sounds like you are using an Mac set up, whereas I use Android and Windows. I don't know what RDP or Team Viewer is and certainly have no idea how your "hub" allows you to control focus etc. I will do some background digging on your information but if anyone can offer more hand holding on this topic it would be appreciated.
  6. Hi, does anyone know of a high resolution (HD?) astro video camera that can feed its signal wirelessly? I am also looking to do the same (wireless control) for the focus mechanism on a SCT telescope. I have a Celestron 925CPC with Celestrons own SkyPortal WiFi module. So I can control everything apart from the focus and receive the video feed. How nice would it be to have a completely wire free set up! Any thoughts, tips or opinions welcome. Thanks...
  7. Thanks to everyone for your comments.. particularly MarsG76, the suggestion to move the IR filter to the front of the diagonal draw tube seems kind of obvious now... but I didn't think of that one! Its got to make a difference, though one I have yet to try out. Merlin66 you asked which flip-mirror am I using... truth be told... I have no idea! Its a budget buy, although bought from a respected on-line seller of astro specials, he described it simply as a par-focal flip mirror which was best just used for polar alignment as the mirror itself did not give a full reflection (it is offset), I ha
  8. Hi everyone. I wondered if anyone could comment on the following problem I have getting focus on a flip mirror diagonal. I have both a 8" Newtonian and a 5" Short tube refractor (600mm) and both are f/5. Using a Samsung SCB2000 with a C-mount to 1.25" adapter with a screw on IR filter on the front, I am able to get the camera to focus with no issues using a standard 90 degree diagnonal. So I purchased a parfocal 90 degree flip mirror diagonal to attach both visual EP's and camera at the same time. Problem is with the camera attached to the straight through port I cannot get the camer
  9. Way back I was asking about using a Bahtinov Mask to get good video focus, and got advice that a Flip-Mirror Diagonal and 6mm EP would be more of an asset (see Shirvas post). Well using a Mask I have found it invaluable for visual observing but when it comes to Video work I now know why the use of a flip mirror is so valuable. Having diligently set up my accurate GOTO alignment I realised that on substituting an EP for the camera setup I was dramaticly changing the balance of the scope. Of course repositioning the scope on the dovetail would (and did) mean complete loss of GOTO alignment..
  10. With reference to my previous post regarding alignment accuracy I mentioned that I had contacted Celestron themselves for feedback. They have replied albeit without commenting on my real query which was to do with the time taken to do a slow motion adjustment at the end of a slew... however what information I have received has somewhat surprised me and I thought worth repeating here. Celestron mentioned whether I had "started at the index point", to which I replied I did not know what an "index point" was! The reply came: The index mark is a starting position for alignment. On the SLT it'
  11. Strangely enough it was calibrating between Deneb and Vega when I noticed the movement, but I was clicking time in my head using the old darkroom technique ("Kodak One..Kodak Two..etc) rather than anything precise, but next time I will get the stopwatch out and also try a few wider spaced stars as you suggest. If it merits it will post the results in a new thread and also feedback anything Celestron might comment on. SkySpy
  12. James. Thanks All good feedback and advice. I am doing most of what you suggest although I had not thought to add my Barlow to the reticule for even greater accuracy. (Seems obvious now really!) Also I have only recently learned about the wisdom of using the UP / RIGHT arrow approach for final adjustments. Its a bit of a relief to know that my accuracy so far is sort of o.k, as with no benchmark I thought I was just missing something obvious, but it sounds from what you say that better results are merely down to greater refinement of set up and also (by inference) that given the nature of t
  13. This is a long term thread so apologies if this has been answered before, but I would like to know just how accurate can you expect a GOTO command to be, even if you get absolutely everything right (rare!). I have a Celestron Nexstar 127SLT scope and I have been sacrificing productive observing time to test the actual accuracy I could achieve. I have a StarGPS unit which auto updates the controller with bang on accurate date/time and location in the correct format, I use complete 360 degree precision leveling setup for the tripod, and I use a 20mm 70 deg FOV illuminated reticle for alignmen
  14. Hi to everyone and sorry for the delayed posting. I hadn't set up auto-notification on the topic... bit of an oversight on my part seeing it was my own topic! - I'm still a bit new to this forum posting business The upshot is that it turns out I was one of the very few chosen ones to receive a completely duff unit. EZCap say less than 0.6% fail in manufacture.. so they provided me with a nice new one.. which works just fine. Great after sales from EZCap... so despite the problem would still highly recommend. SkySpy
  15. Thanks guys.. Sure is a relief to get it sorted. Just heard back from EZCap (on a Sunday!!) in response to my mail saying the new unit worked. They said they only get a 0.6% failure rate. Gee.. that must mean mines pretty rare eh? ...maybe its worth more than I paid for it.. You know like those coins with the queens head upside down or the stamps with no value printed on them... No? Oh well maybe not. As Shirva says.. time to get imaging. Here's to Clear Skies for everyone. SkySpy
  16. SUCCESS! Have received the replacement EZCap 116 from the manufacturer to replace the first one supplied, and all works fine off the bat ! So it seems I was unfortunate enough to receive a duff unit. I have not heard from anyone else on this topic so my guess is this a pretty rare event. Nevertheless... EZCaps after sales and tech support was both very rapid and completely helpful, so despite the hick-up would highly recommend them SkySpy
  17. Ken... Phono is the same as RCA. Its just a very old style of connection that got its name from the fact that it was originally designed for "phonographic" (yes.. that old!) audio output, but amazingly it is still the same standard connector you find on just about all VCR's, camcorder outputs, TV's and of course Capture devices. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector SkySpy
  18. Thanks Karl I will bear that in mind just in case the replacement that EZCap are sending doesn't work... but it must be I got a duff unit as there are so many others in the forum who are using EZ and are happy with it. SkySpy
  19. I am posting this here, as I opened a new topic on "EZCap Installation problems" but have had no replies yet. I purchased a genuine EZCap.tv Model 116 capture device after the cheap (fake) copy I first bought proved only to work properly in B&W (Colour showed overlayed red/green vertical bands which I could not get rid of). However it has been less than a successful enterprise! The EZCap was duly installed, drivers in place etc. The result... nothing (black screen). Checked camera against a TV composite input and all checks out, so camera is fine. Checked power, checked device driver
  20. Is it me or has anyone else out there had major pains trying to get the genuine EZCap 116 installed and working??? I bought a flaky cheap copy of the EZcap and it at least worked in B&W, though not colour. However having "invested" in the genuine article and having followed the instructions sheet to the letter, I cannot get the capture device to show anything other than either static horizontal lines or a black screen with a faint slow moving vertical line moving left to right. It will not even display the cameras menu system showing no signal at all is being decoded. I have checked the dr
  21. Thanks for the suggestions. I can see the appeal of a flip mirror set up and I may well invest in one someday but on cost grounds with a decent flip mirror being anywhere from £50-£100, the cost of a Bahtinov screen at less than £20 seems a good starting point. My main concern was would it aid the quality of the video images... and if its part of Dragon Man's routine then that's good enough for me! Actually just found a tailored screen (105-150mm) from Wex Photographic for just £12 .50 plus post http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-starwave-bahtinov-mask-for-105-150mm-o-d/p1552063?cm_mmc=goo
  22. Can anyone comment on whether a Bahtinov Mask is of particular assistance when it comes to focusing an image for video astronomy, or is it an unnecessary expense? (I was looking to post this question in another topic but could not seem to find one.. so apologies if its in the wrong place). SkySPy
  23. ngwillym - Thanks for the comments re shielded cable. To tell the truth I am not sure. I am using a stock BNC co-ax cable which I kind of assumed would be shielded anyway but perhaps it it's not. I have the new genuine EZCap module coming soon, so I will try that first and if I am still getting the lines then the matter of shielding will be addressed. It may also be a matter of addressing the security of the actual BNC connectors themselves.. they are really flaky and the slightest movement seems to produce spikes and signal loss. SkySpy
  24. Thanks to Shirva and Pan Euro for suggestions. I tested the camera direct to a TV and no issues at all, so its definitely the usb grabber which is causing the problem. So.. a genuine EZCap.TV 116 ordered direct from the manufacturer is on route.... and the chinky one is in the bin! Oh well.. that's another lesson learned ! SkySpy
  25. Help! I have now got the Samsung 2000P camera and removed the stock filter. I thought I would try a daylight test of the camera, so duly set up with my scope, debut capture software etc. I have perfectly good images... except only in Black and White. When I switch to colour I get blue and yellow bands static bands up and down the screen. I have looked for any necessary adjustment in both the capture software and the camera set up and can see no obvious reason for it. Unfortunately I did not see the advice about not buying cheap capture devices until after I got one (which I now know
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