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Everything posted by stash_old

  1. Put Windows back in the box together with SGP and all the rest - most cost money. Take a look at Indilib it will do all that anyone of the suggestions so far have been put forward. Kstars is far better than Stellarium (which is a 2 par pain in the neck - really in 2019!) and EKOS ,which comes with Kstars , is as good as SGP but free. Dome control no problem. its there subject to your set up electrics. Remote working yep even with variates you have never thought about. Real Client/Server working if you want. Platesolving built into Ekos/Kstars both offline or online (via Internet) You didn't say what you use to image so I would check that out first. Both for images and guiding - IndiLib uses PHD same as Windows. Missed the 2nd par of your thread you use SBIG - all supported and filter wheels https://www.indilib.org/devices/ccds/sbig-ccd.html Yes a bit of a steep learning curve but worth it. It even has Eqmod
  2. Thanks Chris - what is the Eqmod algorithm for deciding a "safe move " ??
  3. Nohing unusually about the software Windows 10 CDC EQMOD APT remote RDP - all standard stuff. This has happened even while I have been using wired Ethernet and the PC running all the above is 6 feet (old money) from the pier. So the software is not,IMO, the problem in that it appears to be doing what it should - just not in the way I would expect. The software must decide to back track at some point else people would be getting corked screwed wiring - just like mine. There must be some sort of algorithm to decide which way to slew from the point you are at and hopefully it takes into account wires! Wifi might have the best latency no argument there but it all ,except for the USB/Serial,uses TCP which does error checking and retransmission if required - I am not getting any errors and loss of any description - wish I was at least I could have something to correct. Maybe the only solution is to set up a web cam to watch the OTA/wires AND but large slack. As I say just looking for any great idea's people use. Might put the question out on Indilib forum as Peter C (CDC creator) seems to monitor that forum or just send him a question. Plus use std 2.5mm connectors with elastic bands to allow for emergency clean brakes but not just come apart and the first tug or just but this http://www.curlycords.com.au/curlycords/12v-24v-dc-power-curly-cords/ Thanks for your input Julian
  4. I use the same spiral wrap and velcro BUT on 2 occasions (not sure if it was EQMOD as I am remote) but it looks like it went 360+ and took up my slack and more. I had always assumed it would never go 360 degree's in RA - so at more than 180 degree's it would go backwards through 0 degrees to get to say 340 degrees. The spiral wrap worked but it wrapped around the pier! So I have allowed for more slack. As I say its the power that is THE problem as ,unless I go back to wired Ethernet ,I will have only 1 cable running "off mount" (if that makes sense) as I am about to run everything on the OTA "PC".
  5. Nope not you LOL that's how GNU/GPL etc its suppose to work - the man selling the adapters as shown by BottleTopBurly.
  6. Its doesn't happen often but I have had an occasion or 2 to get my cables snagged (normally power) - this does 1 of 2 things: 1. Snaps the cable or pulls the sockets apart depending on the type of connectors used - okish 2. Causes my mount to complain/stall - not required at all Forgetting those lucky people who have "Slip rings" as part of the mounts (Celestron ?) how do other people allow for this. NOTE - I am remote so I don't see what's going on until its too late Plus I am not going to put a battery on the OTA - do this for my camera already Yes I am trying to "learn" from great ideas other people may have
  7. Oh is that the same person who is(or has been) , I believe, having legal action is taken against him for using Robert Brown's code to sell his focuser - although he now says he has rewritten it - hope so !. Great adapters but has shown ,in the past, morally poor judgement by profiteering on "Free Software" IMHO.
  8. RealVnc would have been the best alternative to RDP (I use both) but today you can only use a free version for Internet only connection except RPI's which is non internet and free. It now costs £42/yr/Server
  9. Sorry dont understand that statement - do you mean just run Indiserver (this is NOT a web server) on RPI(s) acting as the Device server and Kstars/Ekos "client" on Windows- plus use a browser to start Indiserver on the PI ? And how much in terms of cost is your "in house PC" compared to the PI - you buy a Mini or you buy a Ferrari they are both cars but that's were the comparison ends. As you use the Indilib forum I think many would have already pointed out they use higher powered/cost PI equivalents which work far better with little or no lag - plus less cables(off mount) - normally only power if they opt for Wireless(some dont for valid reasons!). In your situation you didn't need Stellarmate at all just the PI (even just a Non GUI headless server - e.g. Ubuntu 18.04 or even Stretch server) and basic Indilib. This gives the best PI performance as no "GUI luggage". No need even for a Web Browser really but except it maybe easier for you - "Cleaner" as you say. Good luck with your set up and Clear Skies
  10. Keeping to your request to keep the skywatcher hand set and NOT use software or pc/tablets etc but have wireless connection between the Handset and the mount port - yes it is possible BUT :- 1. V3 handset only as you will need to power the handset from a 12v supply (it normally gets its power from the mount) - V4 doesn't come wiith a power connector I believe - someone will correct me. 2. Its messy and unless you are confident with wiring elecronics etc i wouldn't recommend it as it would mean you would have to have 2 X TTL Bluetooth adapters or 2 X Wifi adapters of the correct voltage (else it might be bye bye either hand set/mount board or both) and create a wireless bridge between the handset and the mount.
  11. These are some of the worst images I have ever seen LOL
  12. Dont go to CN very often but I did notice some guy chastise someone as he was using Asrotoaster ,as I do, and posting in "EAA whatever" - he was instantly rebuked ,correctly IMO, as it doesn't matter how one does it - ONLY to the person doing it "his/her way" - asking for help or passing on info in any section is not a crime - if you dont agree dont read it (or comment about it)
  13. You could of course go back to the "Working" version - especially if you backed up your laptop or used Virtualbox. Versions ,if they exist, should be here https://launchpad.net/~mutlaqja. If not contact Jasem/Forum and suggest there should always be the older versions available (compiled) - else its a compile your own job or wait. Better to have back ups Nightly route should not just be jumped at - you could be jumping "from the frying pan into the fire". Ask on the forum first Plus quote "Nightly unstable builds for INDI and KStars are available. Do NOT use this in production. It is only available for testing purposes"
  14. How about a democratic method - put up the suggestions and then vote on it - mine just add (EAA) to existing title. P.S. changing the name wont help IMHO.
  15. It might have changed but Indi did not support Bulb on Nikon camera's - quote from Gphoto "Nikon DSLR: We do not know how to do Bulb capture yet"
  16. Is the Stepper 1.8 or 0.9 degree's ? Shouldn't say this but ,touch wood, they have never let me down - had to reload the Nano a couple of times but the Stepper has been great. A good company. Once you have finished this - the next one you could try the "geared" version its even better but more expensive.
  17. Did your stepper come with a wiring diagram showing colours and the matching A- A+ B- B+ (as also marker on the TB6560 driver) - if it did that helps.
  18. Set it at half-step to start - depends of torque required and how much weight your camera etc - As I say that depends on your mechanical adapter.
  19. Looks about right Its the only one - it contains ALL the INO code for all sorts of set ups
  20. If you mean Linux version then you need Roberts code my Moonlight compat version is wemos Wifi based not Nano - This is the Indi Moonlight version from Robert https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/ and follow the DRV8825 version (this is what I originally used for mine). When you download the zip file it will have lots of version as his version has lots of options - buttons,lcd,Bluetooth etc etc. The first one of each range is the basic. He has done many changes from when I last looked (over 2yrs ago). The only thing you will not be able to do is micro stepping changes by software but I never found the need as it all depends on you connection to the Scope tube and the Stepper motor ( geared or not , steps per 360 etc etc). As I say I would set up a test bed first. Note most steppers run best about 12v but with up to 3amp current but again testing should high light any heating problems - IMHO dont be tempted to go 1/32 or even 1/16.
  21. That depends on the software running on the Nano (if thats wha you are using) - On my modified versions of Roberts code I use D3,D4,D8 - no A pins used - are as my diagram shows thats a direct relationship - d3 nano goes to 3 on the diagram. But as I say it depends on the software pins used - its not hard and fast they just all have to match - e.g. if D3 on the Nano is the CLK signal to the TB6650 then D3 must me connected to CLK + on the TB6650 board ( or whatever board pin has the CLK signal). The software must then make sure that references to the CLK signal are via D3 - Normally only defined once no matter whose software you use. By software I refer to the INO Code for the Arduino. Hope that helps. May I suggest you set up a test rig first before you start soldering to test it all out
  22. Pretty picture (2nd one) but what is it LOL - never did any soldering as I am naff at soldering.
  23. Good question I will have a search round
  24. try SUDO first - do "sudo xrandr -q" Plus you do have a Window (Xorg) session running right ?
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