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HiloDon

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About HiloDon

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    Sub Dwarf

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  • Location
    Mauna Kea, Hawaii
  1. Some colour issues with SLL 3.3

    Bruce, I would suggest trying both and see if there’s any difference. Couple of weeks ago I had taken darks and had some issues I thought might be related to them, so I shut them off and just relied on the DPR tool. It worked so well that I don’t take darks anymore with the Ultrastar C. Last night though my mono Ultrastar had some amp glow, so I need to take a couple of darks to remove it. The DPR won’t remove amp glow. I think I’m not getting the green stars anymore, but I need to run more tests to be sure. It’s really nice not having to take darks. The reddish halo is something Paul was aware of and was working on a fix. Hope he shows up soon. Don
  2. Some colour issues with SLL 3.3

    Hi Jim, The green stars are caused by the defective pixel removal tool being enabled. Sometimes I use the tool and don’t get the green stars, but have yet to figure out what I did. You can disable the tool and use darks, but some strange artifacts may show up depending on the object. I think Paul was aware of the other problem you see, but he doesn’t appear to be active here recently. I hope he’s just busy with summer activities and gets back soon. I think we all miss his help and support. Don
  3. EAA first light with new kit

    What Rob wrote is correct and I suspect that the dust is on the Ultrastar's protective window over the sensor. Try a blast of compressed air and I bet some will disappear. Stubborn ones may need a soft touch of a cotton swab. If you use a can of compressed air, make sure to clear it of any propellant before shooting the camera. If you use any cleaner such as alcohol, be very careful not to get any between the window and sensor. I really doubt these are from the corrector or primary mirror. You probably would not see them. Don
  4. EAA first light with new kit

    Very impressive, AKB! Are you using Paul's SLL? Don
  5. Everyone is welcome to come. Let me know if you plan anything. I will happy to help you view the best skies in the world.
  6. The dark skies of Hawaii on Mauna Kea at 9200' help, too. Don
  7. 7x30s Capture of M83 and two small galaxies close by to the left of M83. Well, maybe not so close by. They are PGC724525 and PGC48132, and are 650mly and 670mly away, respectively. M83 is a mere 16mly away. Used a CPC1100HD at F5 and an SX Ultrastar C camera with Paul Shears' excellent Starlight Live software on a Macbook Pro. Capture was made while live viewing and broadcasting on NSN this past June 27th. No post processing was used.
  8. F6.3 FR

    Elrico, I think what's important is that you get the FOV and image scale that you want. That will be a function of your sensor size (11mm diagonal for the Infinity) and effective focal length. Try to get 105mm from the back of the focal reducer to the sensor. With an SCT, you can screw the FR directly to the rear threads of the scope. Test it out and put the image in astrometry.net and get the FOV. Once you get that, there are programs that will give you the focal length you have based on the sensor size. In any case, if it gives you the image scale you want then you have a winning setup. If you want something wider (shorter FL), you need more spacing, and if narrower (longer FL), less spacing. The wider you go, the more likely you will run into aberrations and vignetting. Hope this helps. Don
  9. F6.3 FR

    The calculator has an input for scope to FR spacing. Are you saying it's not accurate or has the calculator been updated? Don
  10. F6.3 FR

    Elrico, Here's a handy calculator that will give you a starting point for focal reducer spacing. For the 9.25 SCT use the moving mirror equation. http://www.wilmslowastro.com/software/formulae.htm#FR I get 105mm for no spacing between the FR and scope. If the FR is spaced out from the scope, the effective focal length changes because the mirror moves for focusing. You can also try different spacings to get different focal reductions. The 105mm should give you f6.3. Don
  11. Barnard 72, The Snake, is a dark nebula in Ophiuchus. The dark nebulae were first photographed by Edwin Emerson Baarnard and he catalogued them in a 1919 paper, "On the Dark Markings of the Sky with a Catalogue of 182 Such Objects". The Snake is so distinctive because it lies in the foreground of a rich star field near the plane of the Milky Way Galaxy. This image was taken with a CPC1100HD at F2 (Hyperstar) and a SX Ultrastar C camera. 3 subs of 30 seconds. Live view with no post processing using Paul Shears' Starlight Live software. Image was taken on June 2nd, 2017. Also in the image are B68, B69, B70 and B74.
  12. Equipment suggestions for live viewing

    Ron, This issue about form factor came up on CN a ways back. I actually ran comparison tests with my Ultrastar where I placed a cardboard cutout of the shape of the Infinity in the light path of my Evo 6 to see what difference I got. The exposure appeared to be about 3/4 of a stop less with the Infinity, but the image quality was the same. The Infinity is usable, but the Ultrastar would be better on the C6 with HS. I'll see if I can find the CN thread. Don I found it! Looks like it was more like 1/2 stop difference. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/533670-evo-6-and-hyperstar/?p=7188993
  13. Equipment suggestions for live viewing

    Hi Ron, Good to hear your scope is compatible. I have an Evolution 6, but had an SE before that, and my friend has an SE. All are HS compatible. From what I can find, Celestron introduced Fastar in 1997 for their C8. They actually sold a Fastar unit similar to Hyperstar by Starizona. Dean at Starizona would probably know the history of compatibility, but the Celestron story about the Edge doesn't make sense. The turning of the secondary on the corrector plate is a common problem. It is more likely on the larger scopes though. Starizona makes a special gasket to prevent this, but if you just make sure it's oriented correctly after HS use, you should be ok. The corrector plate would have to be removed to replace the gasket. I think the serial number on the C6 should be aligned so it is parallel to the earth. There is a notch on the secondary holder that positions the mirror properly. The orientation of the secondary to the corrector plate is important to maintain. As for cameras, it's hard to beat the Lodestar X2 for near real time viewing. It has an ideal form factor for HS and is great to use for near real time viewing with Paul Shears' Starlight Live software. Don
  14. Equipment suggestions for live viewing

    I believe all Celestron C6 scopes are HS compatible. Look at your secondary and it should have a smooth ring that can be unscrewed. Make sure the scope is pointed upward if you remove the ring to prevent the secondary from falling out. I had to put a piece of electrical tape on the outside of the secondary face to facilitate removing it because there's no holder to get a good grip like the larger Fastar scopes have. Don
  15. Here's a capture of Centaurus A, NGC5128, a peculiar lenticular galaxy in the constellation Centaurus. I captured this on May 5th, 2017 during an internet broadcast on NSN from Mauna Kea, Hawaii at 9200' using an SX Ultrastar C camera on a CPC1100HD at F5 (1400mm focal length). 22 stacks at 30s each. Software used was Paul Shears' Starlight Live on a MacBook Pro. No post processing. Don
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