its finally arrived, can't wait to try it out

[oldpink]

My Canon 600D astro modded camera came this morning
so I guess its going to be cloudy for the foreseeable future

now I just need to order an adapter to mount it onto the telescope, there are quite a few on E bay
but if anyone has any advice on where / what to buy I'd appreciate it

[cotterless45]

Nice ! Wondered why the clouds are glued to the weather map up there !

Nick.

[Charic]

Should be the same as my Skyliner......The 1.25" adaptor can be unscrewed to reveal a threaded section. This is the T-adaptor. You now need to get a T-Ring for a canon EOS 600D. You can then attach the DSLR to the telescope in prime focal mode, ie using the telescope as your lens.

I'll be trying my DSLR  tonight with a Barlow, hopefully?

[oldpink]

LOL about 5 minutes ago I was looking at the 1.25 adapter and discovered it unscrewed
I'm on E bay just now looking for a T ring

[maxheadroom]

Looks like you're in for some fun! (When the clouds clear!)

[Charic]

....I've only got 3 DSLR photos in my Gallery of the Moon, but  at prime focal, I think their  too small, so the Barlow may help. Failing that, a few more adaptors for some eyepiece projection?

[maxheadroom]

....I've only got 3 DSLR photos in my Gallery of the Moon, but  at prime focal, I think their  too small, so the Barlow may help. Failing that, a few more adaptors for some eyepiece projection?

Would a focal reducer help in this instance? I'm worried about my 2032mm SCT at prime focus so I'm thinking about a reducer to drop it from f10 to f6

[Charic]

........possibly, I'm new to astro photography, but have been involved with photography since  Kodak first took a picture? Its all fairly new to me, and the Skyliner was'nt really  intended for night photography.  Day photography maybe, and I'm still reading the books. But something else to check out.

[paulastro]

........possibly, I'm new to astro photography, but have been involved with photography since  Kodak first took a picture? Its all fairly new to me, and the Skyliner was'nt really  intended for night photography.  Day photography maybe, and I'm still reading the books. But something else to check out.

Whilst it's true Skyliners aren't 'designed' for astrophotography particularly, it doesn't mean that haven't any potential in this area.  It's fairly easy to get afocal and prime-focus images of the Moon and even the larger planets, and they are fine for video work too.  Somewhere on the site,  I'm sure some people have posted some fine examples.

[Guest]

Would a focal reducer help in this instance? I'm worried about my 2032mm SCT at prime focus so I'm thinking about a reducer to drop it from f10 to f6

You would definitely need a FR with that scope, I have an 8" SCT 2032mm focal length, and I use a Celestron 6.3 focal reducer to stop down to 1260mm approx, the reducer needs to be at a distance if 105mm from the camera sensor to the lens of the reducer, which is the bottom of the threads on the reducer, so keep in mind that on your camera the sensor is 45mm inside the camera, plus a 10mm T ring which I see tounare about to buy, so that leaves a 50mm T adapter extension tube needed.

Hope that helps

Olly

[maxheadroom]

You would definitely need a FR with that scope, I have an 8" SCT 2032mm focal length, and I use a Celestron 6.3 focal reducer to stop down to 1260mm approx, the reducer needs to be at a distance if 105mm from the camera sensor to the lens of the reducer, which is the bottom of the threads on the reducer, so keep in mind that on your camera the sensor is 45mm inside the camera, plus a 10mm T ring which I see tounare about to buy, so that leaves a 50mm T adapter extension tube needed.

Hope that helps

Olly

Thanks for this. Perfectly explained thanks. It's not cheap this lark is it?? Haha

All the best

[Tinker1947]

My spacing for the FR f6.3 worked like this.......T-ring, 42-42mm spacer, 15mm 42mm Extension this connects  Baader Click-Lock SCT threaded for FR to screw into, f6.3 FR, Moonlight 2" to SCT Extension screws into the FR other end slides into Click-Lock on the Baader  Click-Lock Visual Back....distance sensor to rear FR lens around 103mm i have been told the best distance is 105mm but it can go down to 85mm or any where in between....You can with this configuration remove the DSLR and insert a Diagonal for EP use with the FR, or remove the DSLR and FR for the Diagonal to insert into the Baader Click-lock Visual back....

[maxheadroom]

My spacing for the FR f6.3 worked like this.......T-ring, 42-42mm spacer, 15mm 42mm Extension this connects  Baader Click-Lock SCT threaded for FR to screw into, f6.3 FR, Moonlight 2" to SCT Extension screws into the FR other end slides into Click-Lock on the Baader  Click-Lock Visual Back....distance sensor to rear FR lens around 103mm i have been told the best distance is 105mm but it can go down to 85mm or any where in between....You can with this configuration remove the DSLR and insert a Diagonal for EP use with the FR, or remove the DSLR and FR for the Diagonal to insert into the Baader Click-lock Visual back....

Thanks for this. Would reasonable images be possible using this system and an advanced cg5 gt?

It would be a fair investment in parts to buy this set up for my c8. I'll be on the heavy side no doubt but still close to tolerance

[Tinker1947]

It might be a bit on the heavy side but i'm not sure how the FR will fit as i think its a SCT thread male and female getting extensions will need a bit of shopping about, my concern was fitting it all together in the dark with cold fingers the Click-Locks as just a lever to move....

[Guest]

My spacing for the FR f6.3 worked like this.......T-ring, 42-42mm spacer, 15mm 42mm Extension this connects  Baader Click-Lock SCT threaded for FR to screw into, f6.3 FR, Moonlight 2" to SCT Extension screws into the FR other end slides into Click-Lock on the Baader  Click-Lock Visual Back....distance sensor to rear FR lens around 103mm i have been told the best distance is 105mm but it can go down to 85mm or any where in between....You can with this configuration remove the DSLR and insert a Diagonal for EP use with the FR, or remove the DSLR and FR for the Diagonal to insert into the Baader Click-lock Visual back....

That looks good, but ideally you would want the focal reducer directly on the back of the scope, further back and the F ratio will be different, the 6.3 reduction @ 105mm is only when the reducer is straight onto the back of the scope, but your se up will work ok, bit at a slightly different reduction.

Olly

[Tinker1947]

Yes, it would screw straight on to the supplied Visual Back, but i used a Diagonal with a screw adapter and it was 2 or 3 attempts each time to get the thread started.....

[toxic]

just nip out to your nearest camera shop (pc world or currys) and hurry up it gona be clear tonight 

[Guest]

Yes, it would screw straight on to the supplied Visual Back, but i used a Diagonal with a screw adapter and it was 2 or 3 attempts each time to get the thread started.....

Yes I know that feeling. And when your hands are freezing cold....no fun

Olly