Help please. Need advise on taking pictures of orion nebula

[adavies8900]

Silly question but how would i put the motor on to the mount

[Langy]

You would buy a specific MD for your mount. That would have fitting instructions on how it is installed.

Mine is a cheap one where you remove one screw to attach a bracket and the drive fits to the RA slow motion drive.

Obviously other systems will be different, so it's best to look for the MD for your kit and often you can download the instructions to see beforehand, that's what I did for mine.

[MikeMc]

I did a lot of reading on here, there is a lot to learn, but for me that is part of the fun.

I would say about six months after I joined SGL I bought my scope, around mid August last year.

Took my first picture M57 Ring Nebula at the end of Aug (I had to wait a couple of weeks to get the camera body)

So my very first DSO,

I had a couple of goes at Andromeda, M31 and this is my 3rd attempt (after LOADS of advice in post processing) taken at the start of November,

Most recently on have 5th of Jan, this is my first go at M42, Orion,

Having THE book, asking questions and reading on here, trawling the Internet and a lot of patience, in less than 6 months I am now fully addicted :-)

Something I hadn't considered but you need to make sure you have plenty of space on your hard drive, taking lights, darks, flats and bias shots mean that a single picture you see on here is actually a combination of loads of single frames, at the moment I am taking around 30 x 60 sec lights and then 30 each of the darks, flats and bias so around 120 RAW images before the stages of post processing!

Although I have real problems with flats and sometimes don't use them!

The fact that I can take a picture of something millions of lights years away, from my back garden, makes it all worth it.

Clear skies!

[Quatermass]

I started astrophotography in 2010 and also a blog to track my progress I do it as cheap as I can and get good results I feel take a read through my blog and see if that helps at all any questions I'm happy to pass on what I have learned along the way as its a bit confusing when you start. ;-) www.astrocasto.blogspot.com

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[frugal]

Something I hadn't considered but you need to make sure you have plenty of space on your hard drive, taking lights, darks, flats and bias shots mean that a single picture you see on here is actually a combination of loads of single frames, at the moment I am taking around 30 x 60 sec lights and then 30 each of the darks, flats and bias so around 120 RAW images before the stages of post processing!

Especially if you start converting files to FITS format that a lot of astronomy specific post processing programs use. My 18Mb RAW files can go up to 220Mb. My last project was only 27 frames but after all of the processing steps it took up 20gig of hard drive space. Admittedly I can delete a lot of the intermediate files when I am finished, but as I am still learning I keep wanting to go back and redo things, so having the files still available saves me some time.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk

[adavies8900]

Wow them pictures are amazing. Really cant wait to start. Getting the book first then go from there really. This site helped me loads already when getting my scope. And now helping continue with this awesome hobby. Thanks for the help  

[malc-c]

Certainly daunting, but a very rewarding type of a hobby... needs buckets of patience..

So you got a scope, and a mount.

The mount needs a motor, so that your scope can start tracking.

Single axis: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/single-axis-dc-motor-drive-for-eq3-2.html

or

Dual Axis: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/dual-axis-dc-motor-drive-for-eq3-2.html

Does your mount have a polar scope already? This would be one that is supposedly usable (don't have this mount myself and am uncertain): https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&ai=CeED3DfP8UpyWAae_7QbRtIDACIzYqb0ElOSjl1rexNz6mwEICRABIN7Nzx4oD1CDhJHsBGC7ts-D4AqgAfCPsuYDyAEHqQKdq8XiGea7PqoEJ0_QFQ7cBuDs25uYSPBJExRCbN2FuqtLec7BLEMP3v3U_qJ2HxHoJMAFBaAGJoAH-O_NGZAHA-AS-YHio9u5i8CCAQ&sig=AOD64_0mmtbPkLl8ew8IbO50UW37YiJfKw&ctype=5&ved=0CEMQ2CkwAA&adurl=http://www.365astronomy.com/index.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26products_id%3D2033%26currency%3DGBP

Then you'd need adapters for your camera to the scope - this: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-2-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html and this: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/t-rings.html

An excellent programme for Canon control is "astrophotography tool" APT - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ideiki.com%2Fastro%2FDownload.aspx&ei=mfH8UprkIIzA7AaDigE&usg=AFQjCNEUMA2mL0NlNgnP-jnTAOex6oqKhA&bvm=bv.61190604,d.ZGU

It would pay off to buy either a 450D or a 1100D - both are used quite commonly. Do buy a used body only - not the full camera - much cheaper this way.

So, you'd start polar aligning your scope. After that you could run Alignmaster: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alignmaster.de%2FDownload.aspx&ei=WfP8UsaJIM6AhAeAg4DgDg&usg=AFQjCNF2-B2RgomYTaLwa098lmDAc9ceEg&bvm=bv.61190604,d.ZG4

An excellent programme to make your alignment more accurate.

Then you should read "Every Photon counts" by Steve Richards: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDEQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.firstlightoptics.com%2Fbooks%2Fmaking-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html&ei=kvP8UorhGI-RhQfq4YHQDw&usg=AFQjCNFppyAcZ8ZV7KjoW8YR9lToPuj3fg&bvm=bv.61190604,d.ZG4

Right - now if you get bored with this sort of setup - you could think down the line of guiding. Many people use something like this. A camera (eg. QHY5 - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDQQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fqhyccd.com%2Fen%2Fleft%2Fpage3%2Fqhy5-series%2F&ei=0fP8UpXIKsK4hAeEi4DYDw&usg=AFQjCNEGxoABEFdkuF1YkU_vTRrw8NPInQ&bvm=bv.61190604,d.ZG4) and a 9x50 finder scope (http://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/skywatcher-9x50-right-angled-erecting-finderscope.html). If you go for such a finder-guider setup, you'll need an adapter for the camera and for the specific finderscope you choose (right angled or straightthrough makes a difference!). For adapters, see here: http://www.modernastronomy.com/accessories.html

For guiding, you'd need a software as well. Now here it's starting to get messy... PHD is an excellent guiding software: http://www.stark-labs.com/downloads.html ... people who guide often control their mounts with EQMOD/ASCOM (difficult to install, but amazing to use once it's working...) http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/

If you have problems installing this platform - there should be enough help around here.

Now, having said all this - what I do wonder is, whether you can achieve focus with your 150PL and a Canon. Someone here should have a clue. I used to have a 130p, which I had to mod to achieve focus with a webcam. Wasn't possible with a Canon, until and unless I used a Barlow lens. Then I bought the 130pds, which is quite a brilliant little scope.

Anyway, hope this made a bit of sense.

Ta ta.

And then as you find the set up is too heavy for the EQ3 you need to upgrade the mount to something like an HEQ5....

Things to take on board here...the 150PL is an F8 telescope, so not as fast as the normal 150P, but with bright objects like the orion nebula shouldn't have that much of an affect. It should (in theory) give a flatter field so the OP wouldn't need a coma corrector straight off, especially if he centres the image and crops it in Photoshop or similar application.

The mount is un-driven so the minimum investmet is a RA drive single axis kit - This is a must IMO - even if you are visually observing as it will keep the target in view all the time (unless the scope is poorly polar aligned), and with a long tube stability will be an issue, so having the camera controlled by software is essential.. APT etc would be the recommendations.  I can't locate any info on the suitability of connecting a dSLR camera body to the tube to take images.  As stated it may be such that the focuser can not move in / out  far enough to reach the focal point.  I would suggest that you either borrow a canon dslr from a friend (or use whatever brand of dslr you have)  and try some test shots to confirm you get sharp stars first before shelling out £150 - £250 for a secondhand 450D / 1100D body.

Stability is going to be an issue, given the length of the tube on the eq3 mount, so you will need a well sheltered location to reduce the effects of wind on the scope.  Polar alignment will be most critical as you will not be guiding whilst taking the pictures.  A polarscope helps, but drift alignment or the software above can be used to hone the aliment, and reduce the trailing of the stars.

Best part is that you need to experiment with the equipment you have available and see what you get.  But don't be fooled by the images you see on here, as touched on above, most consist of stacking multiple exposures and some post processing in dedicated software to get the results, which are a long way from a single image taken at the time.  However the Orion nebular being so bright  should give you a decent one shot image from a single 30 second exposure at 1600 ISO provided the scope is driven and aligned, but with the limitations of the mount / scope / drive etc your targets will be limited to bright clusters and nebula / galaxies (assuming all the above is taken into account and you can fit the camera to the scope).

Imaging is a costly section of the hobby.  You end up spending loads on upgrading the mounts, fitting guiding systems, modding dslr cameras or purchasing dedicated astro CCD cameras.... but it is still possible to get reasonable results with basic equipment if you have the time and don't mind disappointment when things  don't go to plan as hoped... but when it does come together it's very rewarding

[malc-c]

To the original poster, here's an example of what to expect.  All I've done to this image is re-size it.

30 seconds unguided.  Modded canon 400D (has the Baader filter installed, and I use the CLS clip filter), 800 ISO

[adavies8900]

Quick update i just brought the Nikon D3200 and T-ring http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301090056057 now going to get 'Making every photon count' got the ball rolling.

[MikeMc]

I forgot the coma corrector: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/coma-correctors/skywatcher-coma-corrector.html

Hmmm..... Yet another thing I will have to save up for ;-) along with a LP filter etc. etc.

I think I should slow down and master what I have it's just such a 'compelling' hobby!

[Russe]

The LP filter can wait a little bit. The CC is mandatory, unless you want to keep on cropping your images!

[davedownsouth]

I don't want to derail the thread, and sorry for the Nooby question, but when I looked at M42 Yesterday and on Saturday, the thing which really jumped out at me was the clear sight of the trapezium in the middle.  I am finding it difficult to see these four stars in any of these pictures; why is that  .

[malc-c]

I don't want to derail the thread, and sorry for the Nooby question, but when I looked at M42 Yesterday and on Saturday, the thing which really jumped out at me was the clear sight of the trapezium in the middle.  I am finding it difficult to see these four stars in any of these pictures; why is that  .

That's because it's hard to expose for the faint nebulosity without the risk of over exposing the trapezium.  If you expose for the trapezium you under expose for the fainter nebulosity.  You can fudge this in the post processing, by taking some really short exposures for the trapezium and then some longer exposures for the nebulosity, and then combine them in the stacking software with some masking that effectively removed the over exposed stars and replacing them with the correctly exposed ones to give a really nice image with all the nebulosity and the individual stars in the middle, rather than a white over exposed blob ! - hope that helps

[Astrosurf]

I don't want to derail the thread, and sorry for the Nooby question, but when I looked at M42 Yesterday and on Saturday, the thing which really jumped out at me was the clear sight of the trapezium in the middle.  I am finding it difficult to see these four stars in any of these pictures; why is that  .

If you use Photoshop, see here: http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/LAYMASK.HTM

[davedownsouth]

If you use Photoshop, see here: http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/LAYMASK.HTM

Thanks for the link, makes sense now

[LeeWilky]

Just the motors for your current mount and a DSLR with T ring and T adapter is all you need to get started mate.

After that look at upgrading your mount and kit as you go along.

[adavies8900]

In the link I posted before is that the right T adapter? For the camera and telescope

[malc-c]

The basic motor drive for your mount (EQ3-2) is a £91 for both axis (there is a single axis drive, but it's only saving you juts over a tenner so IMO isn't worth getting) - http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/dual-axis-dc-motor-drive-for-eq3-2.html

The T adapter is £21 http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/t-rings.html

From what I've found on the net he telescope supports direct coupling you don't need the 1.25" adapter.  The T ring will screw onto the 2" to 1.25" adapter that comes with the telescope.  You unscrew the 1.25" tube part, allowing the T ring to screw to the 2" ring.

[LeeWilky]

As Malc-c posted above if your scope is the same as mine and it supports both 2inch and 1.25 inch Eyepieces then you should find that the 1.25 inch EP holder unscrews at the bottom.  That is your T Adapter so all you need is the T Ring for your camera and the two screw together then mount directly into your telescopes Focuser

[adavies8900]

I'm abit confused with the adapters. I'm not 100% sure with ones. Looking at the post before its http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/t-rings.html and this http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-2-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html 

But im not 100% sure how to use it. With it being 2inch T-mount would i have to take off the eye-piece? I have got the Nikon D3200 with skywatcher 150PL thanks again for the help you have all be great 

[adavies8900]

How do you delete posts? Its answered above me. Sorry :D Thank you LeeWilky for knowing i'll mess up somewhere haha

[Andy Milner]

I have a 200p and about to buy a 1100d. (Thanks to some very good advice already from Lee and quatermass)

I was looking at this tiring. As I thought the low profile will help when adding filters, coma correctors,etc. For 19.99 is this a better buy than the standard t ring? Low Profile Canon EOS T Ring - £19.99http://www.modernastronomy.com/accessories.html#accTRings

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LeeWilky]

I'm abit confused with the adapters. I'm not 100% sure with ones. Looking at the post before its http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/t-rings.html and this http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-2-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html 

But im not 100% sure how to use it. With it being 2inch T-mount would i have to take off the eye-piece? I have got the Nikon D3200 with skywatcher 150PL thanks again for the help you have all be great 

Haha no worries mate its a little confusing at first!  This is the T Ring i bought for my Nikon D3200 incase you havnt bought one yet http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002APT8ZQ/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[LeeWilky]

I have a 200p and about to buy a 1100d. (Thanks to some very good advice already from Lee and quatermass)

I was looking at this tiring. As I thought the low profile will help when adding filters, coma correctors,etc. For 19.99 is this a better buy than the standard t ring? Low Profile Canon EOS T Ring - £19.99http://www.modernastronomy.com/accessories.html#accTRings

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cant quite help your with that im afraid as i dont use any filters and havnt got a coma corrector yet.

Perhaps post a thread on the equipment or imaging help section about the T Ring as im sure someone will know.

Glad you got the 200p its a fantastic scope! 

Ive just bought the dual axis motors for mine and had 2 chances to use them so far and getting some ok results but with better processing and more data i know i can do much better!

Heres what i managed so far with my dual axis motors and Nikon D3200

[malc-c]

Ok just to try and resolve some of the confusion.

The skywatcher 2" to 1.25" adapter is also the direct coupling SLR adapter. A coma corrector also has the same external thread as the SW adapter, so un-screw the sw adapter and screw in the coma corrector in its place.  Hopefully the attached helps explain things