Generic set up for imaging?

[cyteen02]

I'm wanting to have a crack at some imaging. I'm a newbie with a little Sky-Watcher Explorer-130P but hoping to buy a bit more kit in the new year, starting with a Canon then splashing out on a decent mount.

I'd like to end up with being able to sit at my laptop with the telescope busying itself in the back garden some 10ish meters away through the patio doors.  I have read about all sorts of lovely equipment and software that's available, but I'd like you guys to sanity check my understanding.  To try to get my head round it I've drawn a diagram. There's red lines for power cables and blue for USB cables.

So is this the sort of thing I'd do well to end up with?

I think I need a long USB cable to reach the garden, so seems sensible to have a powered USB hub at the end to link to the various stuff.

Will I need a power adapter for the DSLR or will a charged up battery do me fine?

I hope all this makes sense

Seems like the mount will be the most expensive thing, but forgetting things like the extra cables would not bless me!

Many thanks

Paul 

[Earl]

Thats pretty much it.

One thing id avoid is long USB leads, having the laptop at the mount and remote controlling it from a pc in the house is the better option.

[Ags]

I hate the thought of taking a laptop outside... Nasty recalcitrant things. I use a programmable shutter remote and a DSLR, not that the images I have produced are any recommendation for the technique.

What sort of mount do you have now?

[frugal]

If you are going to use a long USB lead, then make sure that it is an Active one. That way there will be a little box of electronics at one end of the cable to boost the signal.

[Steve 1962]

As others have said - you've got the basics there.

One thing you need to think about is how you'd focus the cameras if your laptop is inside, away from the scope...unless you're happy with focusing using Liveview on the DSLR

I think you have two choices - have a laptop outside that will enable you to manually focus at the scope, then link to it from another laptop /  PC inside with a network cable or invest in a powered focuser which can be controlled from a PC / laptop inside.

Good luck!

Steve

[swag72]

You could use something like Teamviewer - Here's my thoughts.

Have a laptop outside connected to a wifi network. Select your target, focus etc, then go inside and watch what is happening on Teamviewer from the front room on a different PC via Teamviewer.

I spend about 15 minutes outside at the start of the night, focusing and selecting my target etc, then set it all running and come inside. I will pop out again before bedtime for a final focus tweak and check, then that's it, I go to bed and wake up in the morning with subs to process.

I have a rain sensor so that if there is any rain the buzzer goes off and I can run out and shut the roof. My process is very simple indeed and ensures that I don't need long USB cables and the like. It works well for me.

[gingergeek]

I run a flat USB cable via a closed kitchen window to a 15m Lindy 4 port active USB hub. The electrics are contained in a custom waterproof box containing a regulated DC PSU with waterproof cigarette sockets cut in the side of the box for the CCD, mount, dew heaters, filter wheel and that box connects to an garden (waterproof) mains socket.

Would love a permanent setup but the garden is not big enough so I have to comprise. If I eventually get the conservatory sorted then I will run all the cables from a pier mount under the grass to a usb/ethernet/power external wall box on the conservatory wall.

[Chris Rowland]

I've got almost that set up, and use it with a single active USB extension so I can have the laptop indoors and the scope outside.

The extra things are a focuser and a filter wheel.  The focuser is practiically essential IMO because you need to focus using the image on the PC screen so need to control the focuser while looking at the screen.  If the screen is indoors and the mount outside there's a lot of running back and forth involved.

Chris

[gingergeek]

I use the laptop outside to do the alignment/focusing at the beginning and then relocate to the kitchen and reconnect it to continue the imaging session. Not much running in and out at all tbh. 

[swag72]

I do no running in and out - Once focused, it holds for hours. I do a filter a night, so no changing there either.

[cyteen02]

Thanks for everyone's ideas.  

I must admit I completely missed the point about actually having to focus! Will need to put some thought in there.

I like the idea of a box with various components in, all ready to take outside in the unlikely event the clouds actually clear.

I have just bought a 99p webcam on ebay, so will start by dismantling that and see if I can fit that to my little explorer, while I'm saving my pocket money for an HEQ5

[smudgeball]

Hi

You're pretty much as my setup.

One tip from me.

I had issues with my Canon DSLR cable (even with a usb hub)

Ended up getting one of these after reading a lot of reviews (I think some were on here ?)

If you have problems with your computer seeing your camera, perhaps this would help?

http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/usb-c449/usb-2-0-c450/5m-usb-2-0-cable-type-a-to-mini-b-black-p1130

Just a thought

I focus using an ardrino project remote focuser and use FWHM with Backyard EOS software.

Regards

Neil

[cyteen02]

Thanks for the tip Neil.  

Makes me realise I need to get my head round the software side next - scratches head

[smudgeball]

Oh.....it's a long journey to the dark side

[cyteen02]

I have just dismantled a quickcam fusion and removed the lens without (as far as I can tell) killing the thing, and I've downloaded and installed SharpCap.  This probably explains the thick cloud and heavy drizzle outside!

[poogle]

One important thing to consider is that the stock 130P is known for not being able to achieve focus with a DSLR (not enough focuser inward travel).

You will have to move the primary mirror up the tube closer to the secondary mirror, either by cutting/shortening the tube or by getting longer adjustment bolts for the primary mirror.

/Patrik

[cyteen02]

Cheers Patrik. Did I read somewhere that this can sometimes be overcome by using a Barlow to alter the focus point, or something like that?

Though it may be better to buy a new scope along with a DSLR

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[poogle]

Cheers Patrik. Did I read somewhere that this can sometimes be overcome by using a Barlow to alter the focus point, or something like that?

Though it may be better to buy a new scope along with a DSLR

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I think the barlow will help you reach focus, but I would also prefer buying a new scope

The thing is, if doubling the focal length with the barlow you're also doubling the f/ratio (from f/5 to f/10 in your case) and this is painfully slow when imaging DSOs. Plus the 130p has got a 1,25" focuser not made for imaging which adds to the pain

If you like the 130P maybe you could have a look at the 130PDS which is modified for imaging, or an ED80 if you want to switch to a refractor.

/Patrik

[cyteen02]

Thanks for the advice :-)

I hadn't spotted the DS suffix on the telescope names. Just shows I should do even more window shopping on astronomy websites!

So something like this would go well with a DSLR ?

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-ds-ota.html

maybe on an HEQ5.

I've ready plenty of posts on the ED80s being very popular but still can't get my head round the differences.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[poogle]

The HEQ5 is a very capable mount and widely used for imaging. The 150PDS will go well with a DSLR, but you wil probably want to buy a coma corrector as well.

Many prefer refractors (and especially the ED80) for being more "plug and play" than reflectors. With refractors you don't have to do collimation or waiting for the scope to cool to ambient temperature before imaging. I have never had any problems with niether of those, but I agree that refractors often are more plug and play.

On a more general note the ED80 has a shorter focal length than the 150PDS and the images will have a wider field of view. For small objects like most galaxies the 150PDS is preferable due to it's longer focal length, but for very large objects the ED80 is preferable. That is why many choose to have two scopes

/Patrik