Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_supernovae_remnants_winners.thumb.jpg.a13d54fa405efa94ed30e7abd590ee55.jpg

Steve 1962

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    2,084
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

563 Excellent

About Steve 1962

  • Rank
    Brown Dwarf

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/perrybarn/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Interests
    http://www.astrobin.com/users/Steve1962/
  • Location
    Somerset, England
  1. Haha! Welcome to the slippery slope / learning curve!
  2. Hi You’re right - you’ll need 1x1 binned calibration frames to go with your Lum data. Because you’ll have two sets of calibration frames, I don’t think you can process the whole lot as one batch, but you should be able to calibrate your subs in two batches -one batch for 1x1 and the other for 2x2. Use the Batch Preprocessing script. Once you’ve calibrated and cosmetic corrected your subs - you can use the same script to align them all and integrate them as a third batch. I’d use a 1x1 binned image as the reference frame because PI should expand the 2x2 subs to match. Hope that helps. Steve
  3. Hi Barry @Barry-Wilson Thanks - pleased you think it's ok! Sorry to hear that you've not managed much at home - but then I suppose you can always make do with data from Spain (not jealous at all!!)) CS to you too! Steve
  4. Hi Steve @Ibbo! Thanks! That's what I did - I put all my subs and all my calibration frames, and initially used the settings described by Sara and after three lots (with three different settings) of a couple of hours - I got the same results three times. That's the reason for my question really I suppose, I gave control to APP ... and that's what it came up with - so I'm at a bit of a loss. Cheers Steve
  5. Stone the crows! I enjoyed three consecutive nights of imaging last week and managed more imaging time in one week that I've achieved in the past six months! The only trouble is that my winter target for 2018/19 now transits the meridian at 7PM and sets behind the house at 01.30AM, so I've only managed to acquire six panes of my planned twelve. Anyway, after a truly mammoth PI session, I've managed to stitch the six panes together and here's a very reduced version: Each pane is made up of 6 x 30 min subs which isn't as much as I'd like - so the image is pretty noisy - this thing is huge but faint so I've had to stretch it nearly to death. If you'd like to see the full size version (warts and all), here's a link... https://1drv.ms/f/s!Agm5IMeBl06egbV9p5yqabT5SONsyg I just need to do the remaining six panes along the top and bottom but I suspect that this will run into becoming my winter 2019/20 target as well. By the way - I processed this entirely in PI despite having downloaded a trial of APP (which is reputed to be great for mosaics). APP gave me double stars along one vertical join between the top right and top middle panes as shown below: All of the other joins were perfect and I tried three times with various settings but always got the same result with that join. Any ideas / suggestions would be appreciated please. Cheers Steve
  6. @JeremyS I'm very pleased with the way that my dome has come out with Polytrol The two lessons I've learned are: Don't try to apply too thicky - mine worked best in the places where it was a bit thinner and "soaked into" the surface. It went a bit matt, but I've applied a second wipe over and it's now got a nice sheen all over. Make sure you allow enough time for it to dry before the dew comes down - I found that it goes milky if gets damp before it's dry. This wipes off with white spirit and can be resealed with another coat. Hope you're pleased with it Steve
  7. Haha @hughgilhespie! Thanks for that Hugh. It was actually easier than Photoshop - although something I've learned is to make sure that it's done in the morning so that it has time to dry / soak in before the dew comes down. The last panels that I did on Thursday didn't have long enough to dry and were a bit milky in the morning - but I found yesterday that a wipe of the milky bits with white spirit followed by a wipe of Polytrol restores the shine. I (and more importantly Mrs L) am very happy with the way it looks. Did you get your USB woes sorted??
  8. I've never aligned mine - just pointed it in the same general direction - and I've never had any problems.
  9. Hi @JeremyS I just washed the dome off then brushed the Polytrol on and wiped it off as per the instructions. It’ll be interesting to see how it looks in the morning.
  10. I've had my dark green Pulsar dome for nearly seven years and I've washed / polished it most years, but recently it's started to look very faded and dejected. I've tried various polishes and waxes but after a few weeks it always goes back to worse than before. Now I've found some colour restorer called Owatrol Polytrol that says it's good for bringing gel coat back to life. This stuff has good reviews and the best price I could find was on Amazon (about £25 per litre delivered). One coat took about a quarter of a litre. I'm going to wait for this coat to dry, then give it another wipe over, so I reckon it'll be about half a litre for the whole job. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E3VACQE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here are some before and after pics of my efforts today...it was really easy to apply and looks fantastic, but the true test will be to see how it looks in a couple of month time. Watch this space. By the way -Polytrol is a yellowy brown colour, so isn't suitable for white fibreglass. Hope someone finds this useful. Steve
  11. Another vote from me for Chroma. I’ve got the 3nm NB set along with LRGB - not a bloom or reflection in sight - I’m delighted with them.
  12. I've used Pixinsight and Nebulosity at various stages in my "AP career" and I think you're comparing Apples with Pears here. Nebulosity is primarily a good value and fairly simple acquisition program with some good but fairly basic calibration routines. When I used Nebulosity, it was with a DSLR and I used to acquire, calibrate and post process my images before progressing into Photoshop for final adjustments. Pixinsight has no acquisition capability and is a very comprehensive and customisable calibration and processing program. I now use Sequence Generator Pro for image acquisition having migrated to a mono CCD camera and all that that entails. After I've acquired the images with SGPro, I work almost entirely in Pixinsight although I might still do a few final tweeks in Photoshop. I've got no experience of APP, so can't comment on it (although it does seem to get a good press), but I don't think it'll do acquisition, so I think your choice is Nebulosity if you want to keep it all fairly simple, or PI/APP PLUS acquisition software like SGP or Maxim if you want to future proof yourself. Steve
  13. The proof of the pudding is in the eating! If you're happy with the results you're getting from an unguided set-up, then stick with it. If you end up going for longer subs and you find you're getting "eggy" stars which you're not happy with - that's the time to think about guiding. I can't envisage a situation where a properly guided mount will make matters worse.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.