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collimation beginner


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Hello,

I am new to Stargazers lounge and relatively new to astronomy.

I have a Sky-Watcher 200P DS and have taken the plunge to collimate it myself. I am currently using Astrobaby's excellent guide to collimation but was unsure whether the focuser should be fully extended while collimating?. Does this make a difference? In fact, should the views through the Cheshire collimator and the collimation cap be consistent whether the focuser is fully extended or not? Apologies if this has been answered in another thread or is stupidly obvious! Any advice would be appreciated.

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Hi Cranefly, welcome to SGL.

The common consensus is that when looking through your collimation cap, focus in or out, whichever is necessary, in order to see all the primary mirror clips. In your case I believe there are three. Hope this helps.

Ally

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.........if your cheshire tube is too long, it could impede and strike the secondary mirror if fully racked in, and  longer tubes shorten the field of view if racked in, so you may not see the primary mirror clips.(Think that's the theory) I see the primary clips well enough just using the 35mm film casec. (soon i`ll be able to edit, instead of multiple replies Lol!

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Ive read before about adapting the cheshire to the f ratio of the scope ..... so an f4 scope needs a cheshire with a 5 inch tube , presuming its a 1.25inch diameter fit. I can see the point of this and you rack the focusser in until you can see the whole of the secondary. I think in general all cheshires are the same length though, but this gives the optimum Cheshire position.

cheers

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Ive read before about adapting the cheshire to the f ratio of the scope ..... so an f4 scope needs a cheshire with a 5 inch tube , presuming its a 1.25inch diameter fit. I can see the point of this and you rack the focusser in until you can see the whole of the secondary. I think in general all cheshires are the same length though, but this gives the optimum Cheshire position.

cheers

almost but not quite :grin:

have a read here

it's the internal diameter that matters not external so it is not 1.25" times f  but whatever the internal diameter of sight tube times f

As I have found when I added cross-hair piece that made the internal diameter smaller - had to shorten my sight tube to see what I wanted to see here

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