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About bambuko

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    UK, England, North Devon

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  1. Thank you guys (must have posted my follow up question as you were typing yours Derek) All sorted!
  2. Thanks Peter! So for total avoidance of doubt, in the drawing in link it is type A and sky is to the left?
  3. In my infinite wisdom I have taken apart my Altair Astro RACI finderscope and now I do not remember which way is the lense supposed to go in? Quick search on interweb tells me that there are four types of achromatic doublets, but only one is used in practice and that means that crown (the narrow bit when viewed from the edge) should go to the front? .... or am I talking out of my rear orifice? Help please.
  4. I don't like facebook, twitter, tablets, android, smartphones, google+, etc, etc ... so, not surprisingly, I don't like new forum either. I am sure I am not totally alone in this sentiment ???
  5. Moving the mirror is always a better option (and very easy as well). Longer collimation screws is a bodge with whole host of issues - not recommended.
  6. Anything with "National Geographic" logo on it, is bound to be "not very good" (stronger language avoided so as not to corrupt minors in keeping with this forum's CofC ). For that kind of money you'd get a lot more out of pair of binoculars... I would start by reading What can I expect to see before deciding...
  7. Only if you have too much money Smart thing to do is not to rush with spending money - use the eyepieces the kit comes with, gain experience and buy new eyepieces later. Good zooms are expensive (very). Cheap zooms are nowhere near as good as individual eyepieces. Your money, but I wouldn't rush into zooms. You will look after it, but avoid "cleaning" it unless absolutely necessary. I haven't had to clean eyepiece since I have started There are plenty of people far more knowledgable here than I, and I am sure they will reply to you soon. In the meantime - welcome!
  8. You are not the only one - I haven't seen Dave's reply until today... (only Beaner's) Hence my liking of Beaner's and total ignoring of Dave's Methinks the server is playing up?
  9. I know how to change the projection in Stellarium, but every time I exit the session in Stellarium it seems to re-sets itself back to where it was in the first place (rather than my preferred option). Is there a way to set the projection and save this setting as my default? so that I don't have to do it every time I start Stellarium?
  10. As in all matters of taste, belief, preference, etc, etc, it is pointless discussing it. There is no right or wrong - it's just what you prefer for your own private reasons, and... you don't have to justify your choices. I don't care what your preference is, I will not try to change it, or try to convince you that you are somewhat wrong I don't understand this business of treating this as a matter of for or against
  11. Yes, I agree with you about that... I had a go at designing and building my own focuser to address the problems of "cheap and nasty" Quite pleased with results, but if you can't DIY the only alternative is spending real money on focuser as well
  12. Centering matters less (within reason not at all) than parallelism. Majority of contraptions used to secure eyepieces will tip/twist eyepiece as you secure the thumbscrews. Part of the problem is the undercut on the eyepiece barrel. It doesn't matter at all, and improving it will not make a blind bit of difference. Consider instead: Howie Glatter's Parallizer
  13. It is likely to be about 300mm focal length (or thereabout). No point going for any eyepiece above 32mm if using 1.25" My RACI (Altair Astro 10x60) is 230mm and it originally came with 23mm eyepiece (making it x10) Going to 32mm (x7) made some difference (i.e. it was worth it), but you would gain nothing by using 35mm or 40mm (unless you used 2" eyepieces). Another problem you are going to have with "...cheap 50 x 300mm scope..." when using low magnification eyepieces, will be distortion at the edges when using low magnification eyepieces.
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