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bambuko

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Everything posted by bambuko

  1. Thank you guys (must have posted my follow up question as you were typing yours Derek) All sorted!
  2. Thanks Peter! So for total avoidance of doubt, in the drawing in link it is type A and sky is to the left?
  3. In my infinite wisdom I have taken apart my Altair Astro RACI finderscope and now I do not remember which way is the lense supposed to go in? Quick search on interweb tells me that there are four types of achromatic doublets, but only one is used in practice and that means that crown (the narrow bit when viewed from the edge) should go to the front? .... or am I talking out of my rear orifice? Help please.
  4. I don't like facebook, twitter, tablets, android, smartphones, google+, etc, etc ... so, not surprisingly, I don't like new forum either. I am sure I am not totally alone in this sentiment ???
  5. Moving the mirror is always a better option (and very easy as well). Longer collimation screws is a bodge with whole host of issues - not recommended.
  6. Anything with "National Geographic" logo on it, is bound to be "not very good" (stronger language avoided so as not to corrupt minors in keeping with this forum's CofC ). For that kind of money you'd get a lot more out of pair of binoculars... I would start by reading What can I expect to see before deciding...
  7. Only if you have too much money Smart thing to do is not to rush with spending money - use the eyepieces the kit comes with, gain experience and buy new eyepieces later. Good zooms are expensive (very). Cheap zooms are nowhere near as good as individual eyepieces. Your money, but I wouldn't rush into zooms. You will look after it, but avoid "cleaning" it unless absolutely necessary. I haven't had to clean eyepiece since I have started There are plenty of people far more knowledgable here than I, and I am sure they will reply to you soon. In the meantime - welcome!
  8. You are not the only one - I haven't seen Dave's reply until today... (only Beaner's) Hence my liking of Beaner's and total ignoring of Dave's Methinks the server is playing up?
  9. I know how to change the projection in Stellarium, but every time I exit the session in Stellarium it seems to re-sets itself back to where it was in the first place (rather than my preferred option). Is there a way to set the projection and save this setting as my default? so that I don't have to do it every time I start Stellarium?
  10. As in all matters of taste, belief, preference, etc, etc, it is pointless discussing it. There is no right or wrong - it's just what you prefer for your own private reasons, and... you don't have to justify your choices. I don't care what your preference is, I will not try to change it, or try to convince you that you are somewhat wrong I don't understand this business of treating this as a matter of for or against
  11. Yes, I agree with you about that... I had a go at designing and building my own focuser to address the problems of "cheap and nasty" Quite pleased with results, but if you can't DIY the only alternative is spending real money on focuser as well
  12. Centering matters less (within reason not at all) than parallelism. Majority of contraptions used to secure eyepieces will tip/twist eyepiece as you secure the thumbscrews. Part of the problem is the undercut on the eyepiece barrel. It doesn't matter at all, and improving it will not make a blind bit of difference. Consider instead: Howie Glatter's Parallizer
  13. It is likely to be about 300mm focal length (or thereabout). No point going for any eyepiece above 32mm if using 1.25" My RACI (Altair Astro 10x60) is 230mm and it originally came with 23mm eyepiece (making it x10) Going to 32mm (x7) made some difference (i.e. it was worth it), but you would gain nothing by using 35mm or 40mm (unless you used 2" eyepieces). Another problem you are going to have with "...cheap 50 x 300mm scope..." when using low magnification eyepieces, will be distortion at the edges when using low magnification eyepieces.
  14. Yes Jupiter, Mars, Venus Catalina I have tried 15mm eyepiece with my TAL-1 but it was too much at x53 , but with 25mm Vixen LV eyepiece at x32 it was just perfect. For once the weather was right in west country (makes a change )
  15. After prolonged period of really bad weather... tonight I got up at 4am and had really good time with Jupiter, Mars, eventually Venus, but what really made my day was the comet - Catalina. Used my TAL-1 with 25mm Vixen LV. Only x32 but any more and it wasn't any good... Much fainter than I was hoping for, but un-mistakeable Time to go to bed for a couple of hours at least before the day starts properly
  16. To interfere in what consenting adults do should really be avoided After all it is between the seller and the buyer and unless you know either of them ... Every day people buy stupid things on ebay, or pay over the odds - it's their money! Unless someone ask for advice here - on the lines "I am thinking of buying ..., what do you think?" (in which case we should give honest advice). The guy selling it is not doing anything illegal, the guy buying it is paying for his education
  17. You have to enable keyboard navigation (in configuration) - is this a problem? BTW F6 works fine for me, so it is not Stellarium problem...
  18. Perhaps you lot should educate yourself first about the issues, history and politics of the country and people you are commenting about... before posting?
  19. Hope you guys and girls didn't miss it on Channel 4 (I am watching it right now on Freeeview channel 13).
  20. He, he, some nice lumps of iron in this workshop of yours You are of course right about relative accuracy of standard ve griptrue ve six jaw etc However... (within reason) regardless of the accuracy of the chuck, one should be able to collimate the laser once it is secured in the chuck. This particular model instead of having two adjusting screws at 90 deg (giving you straight up/down & left/right) has them at 120 deg which means that when you are adjusting for up/down you are also affecting left/right (similarly when you are adjusting left/right you are messing up up/down). Like I said it can be done, but it is un-necessarily cumbersome, because somebody in China has "improved" original design.
  21. The chuck is Polish Bison on DIN mount - I trust it quite a lot I didn't use DTI, but as I've said previously "...I have repeated this test with the collimator secured in the chuck in the number of different positions - the results were always the same..." I am sure it is better than the usual arrangements for collimating the collimator My main beef is with the way this collimator was "improved" from the original reasonably good design.
  22. With OP permission? I will continue with some more info about this particular collimator. I tried collimating the collimator, but it wasn't very satisfying experience (well... I've used different words in the workshop , but that's another story ), so as is my habit I took it apart: Clockwise, starting from top LH we have 7 positions switch head, circlip that retains battery and brightness adjustment, battery holder, o-ring that secures the battery in the holder (plus 4 screws which secure laser contact pad, not shown in this photo), PCB with7 different resistors and "click" plate. Aforementioned resistor PCB in close-up: and, finally the rest of the collimator: Couple of things to mention: 1. you can see "laser contact pad" mentioned previously 2. if you look carefully at the photo, you will see the answer to my question in previous post about the three collimating grub screws - one of them is actually a screw locking the spring (in the photo) which allows the other two screws to be used for adjustment. Originally the two adjustment screws were at 90 deg and spring loaded/locking screw was at 135 deg to the other two. Sensible arrangement making collimation relatively easy. But the "brains" in the factory simplified things and now all three screws are at 120 deg to each other. This means that when using one of the two adjusting screws you are not only moving the laser up/down but also a bit left/right - making it a pig to adjust properly/easily. Same happens when you are using the other screw Of course it can be collimated (eventually) but it is not as easy as it could/should be! Your guess which one of the three is spring... (mine was under the label, but I guess this is not guaranteed?) I think there is nothing left, but to rescue the laser bit and make better contraption out of it (I can feel proper kinematic mount coming along.... but that will be another thread!)
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