Nikon D3100 + Nikontrol/SMtether max exposure times.

[Alveprinsen]

Ok, so since I have the craptastic Nikon D3100, no actual Nikon software supports it for tethered shooting. This is why I am forced to use Nikontrol, later called SMtether for copyright reasons.

However, when attempting to enter an exposure time longer than 30 sec, it simply goes to -1... In other words - Bulb.

Now, when taking hundreds of pictures, I do not care much for pushing the damn button each time, timing it in between. Is there anyone out there with the D3100 that know of tethering software that will allow for longer exposures?

I plan on taking pictures of faint deep sky objects with a scope with F15 ration, and 30 sec exposures simply wont cut it.

Oh, and those of you with actually kickass cameras, especially Nikon - which tethering software do you use? I might just have to buy a new camera. :/

Sincerely, Alveprinsen.

[VigdisVZ]

Hi

It's the same with my D5100, and my friends large sensor one. Unless you want to use a stop watch you either need a special bulb cable for control via ASCOM or a timer remote. The Nikon timer remotes are super expensive but the cheap ones off ebay seems to work really good.

[Alveprinsen]

Ok, I found this Satechi MTR-M Timer Remote Control that supports amongst others - the Nikon D3100.

What I'm not sure about though, is whether or not it will allow for series of pictures with exposure longer than 30 sec each. Example, 60 sec, or 120 sec.

Sincerely, Alveprinsen.

[VigdisVZ]

There are a number of those, and everyone I looked at supports setting really long intervals. This one for instance I'm looking at getting myself, and some people in my club have similar ones: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intervalometer-timer-remote-for-Nikon-D90-D3100-D5000-D7000-D3200-/280930535473

It says you can take bulb mode exposures up to 100 hours (imagine the hot pixels in that image).

I am 99% sure the one you linked works in a similar way.

[Alveprinsen]

There are a number of those, and everyone I looked at supports setting really long intervals. This one for instance I'm looking at getting myself, and some people in my club have similar ones: http://www.ebay.com/...0-/280930535473

It says you can take bulb mode exposures up to 100 hours (imagine the hot pixels in that image).

I am 99% sure the one you linked works in a similar way.

Thank you very much for your feedback, as well as the link.

The one in hte link you provided is half the price of the one I've found. I dont know how cheap one can go with these before one encounters lack in quality...

I think I'll order the one I've found, and I'll post a review'ish post here once I've gotten to try it out.

I know there are allot of D3100 people out there who are quite frustrated when it comes to tethered shooting, especially with long exposures and long series.

Sincerely, Alveprinsen.

[VigdisVZ]

Not just D3100. Just about every Nikon user is a bit frustrated with that. We Nikonists need to stick together though.

Looking forward to hearing what you think about it.

[poogle]

I can feel your pain, had the same problems with my old D200 The shutter release will work well for you though.

At least Nikon now offers DSLRs supporting BULB via USB, and I love my D5200. I can even use BULB and watch live view on my phone via the wifi-adapter on the camera

The software DigiCamControl is really good value for money (free), but you will not be able to capture in BULB mode in any software with D3100 without a DSUSB adapter.

/Patrik

[VigdisVZ]

At least Nikon now offers DSLRs supporting BULB via USB, and I love my D5200. I can even use BULB and watch live view on my phone via the wifi-adapter on the camera

Damn, I want one now

[Dave]

I have used Nikons for years. Marvellous results, as you can see if you visit my Web site.

I avoid using tethered shooting as its yet another technology that can go wrong in the dark and more trailing cables.

I much prefer to use an intervalometer as suggested above and it's a simple and relatively cheap solution.

Set the camera to Bulb and longer exposure lengths can be set on the intervalometer.

I use velcro to attach the handset to the scope while it's taking images so it's out of the way.

Works for me.

[CedricTheBrave]

I have just purchased one of the little gadgets above and it works well

cost £15 i think off ebay and you can set it to take multiple shots of upto 99 hours a piece

plugs into the side of my D7000.

note though you must switch off Long exposure noise reduction on the camera as it will just sit there saying Job NR after shot 1

good tip on the velcro as well Dave

[Alveprinsen]

Ok, so I received my Satechi MTR-M for my Nikon D3100 in the mail today.

Tested it out a bit with the lens-cap on, and it seems to work just fine. I did a couple of 5 minute exposures with 10 sec interval between each and it worked easy as pie.

Cant wait until my dew heater tapes arrive on friday... Then all I need is for the damn moon to go away and some clear skies.

Sincerely, Alveprinsen.

[rob0971]

I am lucky enough to have a D4. I use this with an intervalometer. One thing to note is that if you use mirror up mode, the exposure will not start for 30 secs after the mirror moves into the up position. So if you set the exposure length for 2 mins, you will only get 1 min 30 secs. I just use mine in single shot mode instead & haven't noticed any blurring from mirror vibration.

I have also dabbled with dslr cam control which does support bulb for the D4, but the intervalometer does what it says on the tin & works for me for now.

[glowingturnip]

intervalometer !  wow, didn't realise these things existed, have ordered one straight away.

I'd been doing mine with my D80 the hard way, using this c# wrapper to make a program to do the intervalling tethered to a laptop (http://sourceforge.net/projects/nikoncswrapper/) but still couldn't get round the bulb timing, 30 secs max.  So I am used to sitting in the dark with a stopwatch on my phone at 2am.

[CedricTheBrave]

one other thing I have found with my Nikon is that the delayed shutter mode only delays it by 1 second which is not enough, I am going to try the mirror up technique which then automatically fires the shutter after 30 seconds.

hopefully it will stop all my wobbly bits!

[Dave]

one other thing I have found with my Nikon is that the delayed shutter mode only delays it by 1 second which is not enough, I am going to try the mirror up technique which then automatically fires the shutter after 30 seconds.

hopefully it will stop all my wobbly bits!

I find that I only get noticeable wobble in the images when the shutter opens on bright objects like the Moon, planets or bright stars.

When making long exposures of deep-sky objects, faint stars and nebulae are usually too faint to record in the short time the wobble occurs.

So I find I only need to use mirror-up when shooting brighter objects.

[rob0971]

I find that I only get noticeable wobble in the images when the shutter opens on bright objects like the Moon, planets or bright stars.

When making long exposures of deep-sky objects, faint stars and nebulae are usually too faint to record in the short time the wobble occurs.

So I find I only need to use mirror-up when shooting brighter objects.

That's a great tip mate. Many thanks.

[jayfost]

Hi Guys I'm jumping in a little late on this topic but I'm about to buy a beginner SLR and for use with both AP and daylight stuff...I was trying to decide between the Canon T3 and the Nikon D3100. I have no loyalty to any brand at this point. I've read that the build quality of the Nikon is better but the Canon has better software support........is the Nikon really as limited and some people make it seem. I really dont what to make the wrong choice

[laser_jock99]

Ok, I found this Satechi MTR-M Timer Remote Control that supports amongst others - the Nikon D3100.

What I'm not sure about though, is whether or not it will allow for series of pictures with exposure longer than 30 sec each. Example, 60 sec, or 120 sec.

Sincerely, Alveprinsen.

That's all I've used for the past three years. Program in the start delay, exposure time and interval between shots and off you go- no need for any laptop or software!

They are only about a tenner on e-bay BTW

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timer-Intervalometer-Remote-Shutter-Control-F-Nikon-D700-D300S-D800E-D200-D4-D3-/271151755452?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item3f21e770bc

Buy two- I've found the hard way that it pays to have a spare one......

[Purplehayze104]

hi there

yes the nikon is very limited in wot you can do with it, D3100 which i have is only really able to tether to a pc and take snap shots, have herd the d5100 & d7000 work with live view but thats about it, canon has endless possiblities of software (Astro) that it will work with so if your getting into astrophotography then would suggest a canon

hope this was some help

clear skies

john

[jayfost]

I'm new to this stuff.....whats the advantages of using a tethering software instead of the intervalometer.

[Dave]

....whats the advantages of using a tethering software instead of the intervalometer.

I can't imagine that it gives that many advantages.

Just more technology to go wrong and frustrate you.

I'm going to get shot down in flames now, I know it... 

[poogle]

To get focus spot on, you will most certainly need a laptop anyways. But when starting out an intervalometer will do just fine, and then later on you might want to tether the camera

/Patrik

[Alveprinsen]

I can't imagine that it gives that many advantages.

Just more technology to go wrong and frustrate you.

I'm going to get shot down in flames now, I know it... 

Actually, I would recommend getting one of these controllers rather than using a laptop.

I've been using two laptops up until this day, running Stellarium and ASCOM EQMOD along with PHD Guiding on one, and SM-tether for shooting with the Nikon D3100 on the other.

First of all, if your viewing location is NOT outside your livingroom door - you might need to bring battery backs and stuff for your setup. The laptop will require a converter, which in turn kinda drains power fast.

Two AAA batteries in a shutter controller will last you like... 5 months of continual shooting? Like 5 months, non-stop shooting with 5 minute exposures..... A Laptop hooked up to a 19Ah battery will last.. 6 hours? thats my experience anyways.

As for focusing... if you are using a DSLR... that actually supports liveview on your computer - chances are you're not going to see any stars anyways, since DSLRs are usually not sensitive enough. So you're gonna have to take like... 10 sec exposures preferably with a Bahtinov mask anyways. Only up-side for using a laptop for this would be if you are focusing on a star that puts your scope in an awkward position. Solution is easy enough though... find another star..

I've used my Satechi MTR-M Timer Remote Control a total of 4-5 times now since I got it (3 weeks ago or so) - and I am absolutely loving it.

I was considering getting a CCD for imaging, but with this thing... I'm thinking I'll wait with the CCD until I get a permanent observatory on my own property...

It is super easy to use... klick "start", and thats it... Oh, and did I mention? - it practically uses no battery........

Alveprinsen.