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Everything posted by Alveprinsen

  1. The time-lapse wasn't really meant to catch any meteorites. That was the main imaging camera's job. The time-lapse was more for showing friends "we were here, this is what we did..." I feel the sky is by far not dark enough yet to take any meaningfull images. In the timelapse you can see the light in the horizon the entire time. Another month or two though, and things are going to look dimmer - in a positive sense. I hope I get more windows of no moon, no wind, no clouds this season, but I'm not holding my breath. Last year I got so fed up with having so few imaging sessions pr. year I started a new hobby that does not require clear skies, no moon AND no wind: genetics & molecular biology. I'm setting up a fully functional DNA research lab in my former bedroom... See www.drn00b.com for details.. haha!
  2. Allright, it's been a year since I last posted (or something like that), and I just so happened to stop by SGL to see if there were any good shots of Perseids... Even though I've considered my efforts in imaging these a failure - I thought I might contribute with an image taken with the main imaging cam, and a timelapse of the imaging session. I imaged over the course of two hours between 00:00 and 02:00 - which I estimated to be the darkest period of the night, peaking at the darkest at 01:00. A single meteorite against a Milkyway backdrop: A timelapse of the imaging session: https://youtu.be/BS0yF0bP4_o As you can see, there is quite a bit of clouds. My image above is the only one in which there are "not too many clouds". I even had to crop out the worst of it. Main imaging camera: Modified and cooled Canon EOS 600D running at -13°c in ambient temperature of 10°c on a Vixen Polarie - imaging through a 14mm Samyang wide-angle lens at F2.4 ISO 400, 90sec exposure. Timelapse camera: Canon EOS 7D Mark II on tripod, imaging through a Sigma 10-20mm at F3.5, ISO 1600, 15sec exposures. Timelapse images edited in Adobe Lightroom CC, main image edited in Ligthroom and Photoshop. Sincerely, Alveprinsen.
  3. Alveprinsen

    Perseids /fail

    From the album: Failures

    © Alveprinsen

  4. Oops... just noticed I didnt reply to this one. The camera is a full spectrum Canon EOS 600D from CentralDS (google'em...) The two main things about the camera is that it is full spectrum, and cooled with peltier cooling... so on a regular winter night when the outside ambient temperature is about -5 to -10 C, the chip runs at a constant -29 to -34 degrees C.. so no noise basically...
  5. No. The galaxy is placed further "up" in the image in the images from my previous session. I would most likely need to do some serious cropping... I might just do it though, to see the difference. Or perhaps I just need to up the exposures to get the faint stuff... Too bad longer exposures gets all washed out.
  6. Yeah... I got lucky with the weather tonight and managed to clock in another 8.5 hours of imaging. I am now up in a total of 13h 21 minutes. Tonight I was as usual imaging at ISO 800, with 300sec exposures. Seems the 600sec's gets too washed out. Chip temperature was running on a record low of -34C. I no longer do dark frames.... Sincerely, Alveprinsen.
  7. Another try this evening. About 6 hours worth. Same settings, -24 C. About 5 hours... I am quite a bit more happy about this one. Sincerely, Alveprinsen.
  8. So, clouds, wind and moon has gotten in the way of me... Not this time though. I managed to squeeze in around 4 hours of imaging. (before that I was imaging M82 for 6 hours...) So, the specs: ISO 800, 300sec x 49 - so roughly four hours total. Modified EOS 600D. Chip was running on a pretty much constant temperature of -24 C. Used a Baader LP filter as well... LP has gotten worse here over the last couple of years. Calibration frames: 10x flats, 10x bias, no darks... Going to invest more time in this object. Need more exposures! If only the haze and LP would go away, I could go back to doing 600 sec exposures for those fine dusty details... Sincerely, Alveprinsen.
  9. Looking good. Considered working with layers as to not over expose? Was mainly thinking of the M42 core... Not that mine is any better. I ought to have taken some shorter exposures as well....
  10. So, I had a few hours with clear skies tonight, although it seems LP and/or fog has increased severely this year... Thought I'd give it a shot at the two nebulae. Unfortunately, I find that knowing the camera framing of the image when using a newtonian is utterly confusing compared with a refractor - in which case I'd just rotate the camera to acomodate. Not being able to see my target in liveview I didnt want to bother with rotating the camera, making an exposure, rotating again... so... Here's the result after a really quick stretch and edit in Photoshop, PixInsight and Lightroom: Note however that I have had to crop out the image... This galaxy was placed rather high up in the frame of my original image as I was hoping to get that little one as well... Which is obviously did not. With a 1000mm FL this galaxy as a bit small anyway, so the detail is unfortunately not as sharp as I would have wanted. Still, was nice to do a galaxy again... Camera: Modded and cooled Canon EOS 600D Mount: NEQ6 Pro Guiding: Orion Starshoot Autoguider through a 50mm finderscope. ISO: 800 Exposures: 60 x 300s (total 5h) Calibration frames: Bias and flats, no darks. Chip temp: -19 C sincerely, Alveprinsen.
  11. Thanks! I will have to keep an eye out for this then. guess I need to go through my subs myself and delete the worst ones by hand. I will have to look into this whole sigma clip thing too... havent used that before I think - seeing as I dont even know what it is. Gonna check it out next time I stack images. hopefully this year, but... most likely in January...
  12. Its a 200mm vintage prime lens from Takumar Pentax... It has a sun-shield or whatever that is reasonably large. I've also used a dew heater on it. It is possible that stray light from the side has resulted in those large circles - most likely the outline of the sun shield? ... I dont see any other posibility.
  13. All of these will have to be thrown away. Anyhow, next chance I get I will use my LP filter, get correct focus, and get started as early as possible, letting it image from the moment M78 comes over the horizon until the moment it goes down below in the morning.
  14. And with some touchup by GradientXTerminator (downloaded less than 2 minutes ago): I wonder... what if I use this instead of PixInsight?.. hmmm...
  15. I used mighty PixInsight to excert revenge on this image: But even PixInsight is no match for the massive gradient /fail of the evening... This weekend... weather-gods permitting - I will nail this sucker to my chip!
  16. Ahh, another glorious day at the Observatory of horrors... The other day I had like.... another 9 hours of clear skies. Of little use though, since both primary and secondary mirror was completely iced over. So - I brought the damn thing into my house to de-frost and dry the damn thing up. Meanwhile, I took a shot with my Vixen Polarie using my modified camera and a vintage 200mm Takumar Pentax 200mm lens instead. Failures seem to be the rule rather than the exception for me these days... Take-two with my 200mm lens last night resulted in this little disaster. Anyhow, tonight I got home from work early.. ready to clock in as many hours of exposures as possible... M78... my dream object from last year... Remember? That whole year I waited for a camera that never arrived... This was the moment... So... 1. Had to re-align the scope because it had been detatched. Spendt about three hours trying to find Jupiter. (yeah, its right there... I know... just not in frame...) I thought I'd found it a few times, although I thought it looked too much like a star. Not the Jupiter I remembered... And right I was.. No wonder I missed every single object on the sky by a mile... I had centered on a bright star instead... So, after three hours, I by chance find Jupiter, and my alignments go easy from here. 2. Its already 02:00 - having wasted several hours, I now only had like 2-3 hours left - and the object would be so low on the horizon the images would most likely be Rubbish anyway... 3. Rubbish is best served cold. (-7 degrees) Ahh, glorious gradient, and do I detect a touch out-of-focus? My favorite combination... I checked the mirrors before packing up for the evening (or should I say morning), and noticed there was some rhime on the primary mirror at least. I didnt check secondary - but its a given that there would be rhime on that too. So I am thinking - either quit - or get a freaking Skywatcher Explorer 190MN DS-PRO. I want something I can slap a freaking heating strip on... Something with a virtually maintenance free tube. I want closed optics, but with the aparture of a reflector... PS: I consider this thread my own personal Wailing Wall. I hope my lashing out at the universe at least diminishes the feelings your own failures - hopefully providing a silver lining to what I assume is a typically clody british day. Alveprinsen.
  17. The loss of a 150w is about 10%. Just make sure you dont buy the cheapest one. You get what you pay for.
  18. Hmm, not an entirely unreasonable assumption... However... What on earth could've made that.. Unless I accidentally flashed the lens with my flashlight in one of the photos... Damn, now I need to look through all of them. I selected "use 70% of the best images..." in DSS. Shouldnt this have been filtered out if there was only one or two frames like that?
  19. Get yourself a 60Ah hobby battery, hook it up with a crocodile to female cigarette adapter. Get yourself a 12v inverter to 220v 150w, plug it into the cigarette adapter, turn on, plug in laptop - and you're good for at least 12 hours continous use. I run both laptop and power demanding camera off a 60Ah battery. So far I've ran it for more than 9 hours - and no indication of battery problems. If you got a heavy mount and heating strips, get a 30Ah battery for that. I use a 30Ah gel battery for my NEQ6 Pro and two heating strips. Dont buy those car jump-start packs. They run out of juice sooo fast. I bought a load of those. Finally went for gel batteries instead. The kind you'd use on a moped, motorcycle, scooter, boat, car etc...
  20. *weird voice* - "yes" I guess I could hook up the 55mm F1.4 and see if I could fit the loop. Would be an interesting project for a relatively bad night with short cloudless window. I had like 7 hours cloudless tonight, and almost no wind. Too bad I had taken the 200PDS inside to de-frost the damn mirrors. I could've gotten some serious data on a couple of other object that interest me a great deal more than the old Orion constellation. Truth be told, I am quite tired of it... But without using the NEQ6 Pro and a real scope, targets are kinda limited with the Polarie and 200mm prime lens..
  21. The 135mm seems to be popular... I dont know about the blue halos, but I bet the purple around the lesser stars are CA. I bought this lens because I had read that it was basically CA free... with its super-multi coating and stuff. Oh well, what can one expect from a.. what, 35? year old lens... I did clock a few more hours on the thing today though, and this is the result: Got a really weird artifact there. I wonder what that is... I've been doing 180 sec exposures only this time. Its the highest I can go with my Vixen Polarie startracker... I tried 240, but the stars started trailing. Seems I've hit the point of diminishing returns... Gonna need those 10 minute exposures to really bring out the fainter dust and stuff.
  22. Since my scope was all iced up today, I turned to my Vixen Polarie and my Takumar Pentax Super Multi Coated 200mm vintage lens instead... I did use my modified and cooled EOS 600D tho... So, I had a few clouds roll in after a while, which really messed things up. I've stacked 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% of the images below for your viewing pleasure. Exposure is at approx 45 minutes combined. Different exposures are: 15sec, 30sec, 60sec and 120sec. I've done all darks, bias and flats.. ISO 1600. And here is the final image. I used the 50% stacked one. You can see the clouds creating a nasty halo effect around the brightest stars. Surely gonna do some more widefield of this area once I get real clear skies... Sincerely, Alveprinsen.
  23. its a 50mm finder-scope. the focal length is about 180. If it was longer - the guiding would be more accurate. I used to guide with a 500mm focal length scope. I've just recently switched to a finder-guider since the 200PDS is so damn large and heavy. Stacking with DSS, yes. I haven't looked into this kappa-sigma thingy you're talking about. Review score? Where can I see that? hmmm - seems there's something for me to learn about DSS...
  24. Ok... So, I decided to break in my new 2" 7nm Ha narrowband filter tonight... with the moon up and all. Scope: Skywatcher Explorer 200PDS on a NEQ6 Pro mount guided by Orion Starshoot Autoguider through a 180mm FL finder-scope. Camera: Modified and cooled full spectrum Canon EOS 600D (with field flattener) Exposure time: 19x 900sec ISO: 1600 Chip temperature: -28c Flats and Bias: Yes. Darks: No. Notice how the right image is totally smudged. (also notice how the left image is slightly smudged...) Looking through the separate exposures, most of them look just fine. When combined however, the result to the right is what I get. So I went through all the frames, and weeded out the worst of them. The ones that were most obvious. I still got the same result. So I continued to remove all pictures that were even slightly offset frame-wise from the first image, and the result is the 1H combined exposure to the left. And even that one has slightly elongated stars. So, to my question: Is my problem just slight wind here, or could this be the guiding not being accurate enough, OR the scope being somewhat out of balance on the mount thus causing tracking problems? Sincerely, Alveprinsen. NOTE: I have just stretched these images and processed them very quickly to bring out some of the details...
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