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About rob0971

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    Star Forming

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    Wildlife photography & part time plane & car nut.
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  1. I have the 82 deg & it's my favourite eyepiece in my 12" dob
  2. Why not just press "enable" if you are unsure if they are enabled or not. Surely they will then be turned on?
  3. Windows 10 has probably updated the driver. You need to google for an older driver that works & then stop it updating. Plenty of info on the net for this.
  4. Do you have the time\ date set correctly? How about your long\lat?
  5. Only just picked up on this sad news. I didn't know him but like many knew of him through his postings in various forums & his presentation on the astro imaging channel. My condolences to his family & friends. The world is poorer for his loss.
  6. Lee, how long were the exposures? What capture software are you using? Have you stretched them at all?
  7. I think you still need a eqdir cable to connect the mount to the computer if using eqmod. You then select the com port that has been assigned for that cable in the eqmod set up screen, not the com port the camera is plugged into. You can find out which com port has been assigned to the eqdir cable in device manager. So you have the eqdir cable from lappie to mount, USB cable from camera to lappie & st4 cable from camera to the guiding port on the mount. There are of course other ways of doing it as suggested above & you can get rid of the st4 cable & use pulse guiding instead
  8. Check out the ZWO ones, less than £100 for the set. I think 365 astronomy sell them. I have been using them for planetary work & think they are great for the money.
  9. If you can get away with it great! When you start adding heater bands, cameras, focusers or if you want to top up your laptop, it makes more sense to go for a deep cycle battery. I'm sure if you are just running a mount, then an old car battery is adequate especially if you have one lying around that's good to go. If you have to buy one though??
  10. I had my qhy8l hooked up to a switched power supply while doing darks at -20 & the amps drawn varied between 1.5a at 100% to around 1a at 45-50%. So yes, the higher the output % the higher the amps drawn.
  11. Deep cycle or marine batteries are designed to be used at low current for long periods of time. Car type batteries are for high current, short duration & unsuitable for astro work. A 75ah deep cycle battery will last many hours but should be recharged after every use to keep it in tip top condition. They are relatively cheap but heavy.
  12. 30-40 secs per colour shouldn't be a problem. You could always use winjupos to de rotate & get longer captures.
  13. You can also get a wireless gamepad for Windows. Comes with a little receiver that you plug into a USB port. Mine is a Logitech f710.
  14. I had issues with my eqdir cable drivers. It worked when I tested it but when I got to try it in anger I just got the dreaded code 10 driver fault. I tried the Flo work around but I couldn't get that to work. I used the 64 bit software fix from these guys http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.html & all is working fine at the moment.
  15. I normally whack both the gain & exposure right up to find & rough focus on the planet. Then adjust the gain & exposure down until I get a balance between the lowest gain & high enough fps. You need the histogram to cover most of its range without clipping the ends for proper exposure. I then focus properly. You need to be able to get at least 1000 usable frames out of your run in around 40 secs (or longer if using winjupos to derotate.) Use the ROI setting & you should be able to get a high enough frame rate to achieve this.
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