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Flocking a 6SE


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  • 1 year later...

Hi, friends!

After many months without having to cut out velour strips, t's time for me to flock a 127 Mak from Synta - same problem, same solution. I will report the results as soon as the handiwork is finished.

It's good to be here again.

Regards,

Leo

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Here are some pictures illustrating the results. As I did before with the 6" SC/ACF telescopes, I've only flocked the interior of the baffle tube that goes through the primary mirror of the 127 mm Maksutov-Cassegrain from Synta, with no need to disassemble the rear cell. I've used a piece of adhesive black velour of 84,5x155 mm, that leaves a few millimitres of the inner end of the baffle unflocked.

The photos below have been taken with a Canon EOS 6D attached to the 127 Mak, each pair of pics with the same ISO and exposure.

Before flocking (left) - After floking (right)

vela-noche_b-f.jpgvela-noche_a-f.jpg´

tres_juanes_b-f.jpgtres_juanes_a-f.jpg

Visually, I haven't noticed any improvement other than the vanishing of the halo rings. Photographically, benefits are obvious: a more homogeneous illumination of the field of view, higher contrast, more intense colors. The photo of the hermitage is not very clear because it was a foggy morning, but the differences are quite evident in the original pictures. However, the moon hardly shows any difference.

Before flocking (left) - After floking (right)

moon_b-f.jpgmoon_a-f.jpg

I'll be back soon with some nice photos taken with an APS-C format camera, that shows less vignetting than the Canon full-frame.

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I have flocked the baffle tubes on my Mak/Sct's although not taken any before and after shots, Subjectively I would say it is at least as effective as flocking the main tube regards contrast/stray light improvements.  :smiley:

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Today, I took many photos of birds with a Sony A6000 camera - wich features an APS-C sensor (23.5x15.6 mm) - attached to the flocked 127 Mak. The pics show excellent contrast, vivid colors and no vinegtting. Here are some of them....

purple_swamphen_1-mak127-1050x700.jpg

purple_swamphen_2-mak127-1050x700.jpg

shoveler_and_coots-mak127-1050x700.jpg

couple_of_mallard-mak127-1050x700.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys.

I was fighting with exactly the same problem. Massive Halos (elliptical circles in my case) in my Celestron Evolution 6"

Without disassembling the SCT, i cut a perfect piece of velour (from FLO), rolled it, stuck it together and pushed it up the rear.

NO HALOS ANYMORE :) Just a slight increase in vignetting, but very acceptable.

Here are the before-after-pics:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/228829-elliptical-circles-around-bright-stars-in-long-exposure/?p=2506887

Regards, Graem

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  • 1 month later...
 Just a slight increase in vignetting, but very acceptable.

Hi, Graem,

You can avoid any vigneting by simply leaving the inner last 2 milimetres of the cylinder unflocked. Precisely, I used a pice of 81x153 mm to flock the baffle tube of the NexStar 6SE.

Regards,

Leo

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Hi Leo.

Will try again this weekend, i already had the idea, but probably i took away too little to really make the effect.

Anyway i have now got a AZ-EQ6 + ED60 for imaging, and the SE6 became my visual :)

Realized that with imaging you really need 2 scopes, or you get bored having nothing for visual :)

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  • 1 year later...

Hi, friends,

Now, I've just flocked a Sky-Watcher Mak 150 (6"). I've come back to this topic because I have discovered, with the Mak 150, that leaving a few milimetres near the back end of the baffle tube unflocked gives a better filed illumination, with a little less vignetting. In this case, I have used a piece of black velour of 81x155 mm, leaving about 8 mm of the back end unflocked -- and so the inner last milimetres of the cylinder. Here are the comparative pics:

telescopio_mak_150_b-f.jpgtelescopio_mak_150_a-f.jpg

Regards,

Leo

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6 minutes ago, Leonardo_FL said:

Here are the comparative pics:

The pics are done with a Canon full frame camera. The exposure time is 0.5 s, with ISO 800 in the first pic (uflocked) and ISO 1600 in the second pic (flocked).

Edited by Leonardo_FL
Orthography
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This thread has been a very interesting read. Definitely going to flock my 127 XLT when I have the time. 

Has anyone had any problems with the adhesive of the flocking (from FLO) gassing out and fogging the internals? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I've just flocked a NexStar 5SE (C5) using a piece of velour of 78.5x147 mm, leaving unflocked about 3 mm at the inner end of the baffle and 5 mm at the outer end -- this gives minimum vignetting. This time I forgot to take a before flocking pic, but you can see the final result.

Regards,

Leo

 

nexstar_5se-flocado-IMG_7210.jpg

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Wow! That's very impressive, especially a full frame from a C5. Can't wait to find the time to flock mine.

Do you think its worth the effort to flock the entire tube, secondary, and baffle? I'm still undecided.

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10 hours ago, D33P said:

Do you think its worth the effort to flock the entire tube, secondary, and baffle? I'm still undecided.

Well, there may be some improvement in contrast if you flock the main tube, but I guess it would be minimal. The most important part is the baffle tube so you can avoid the halo rings, leaving some millimetres unflocked to reduce the vignetting.

Regards,

Leo

Edited by Leonardo_FL
Orthography
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