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  1. Hi, A few days ago I flocked another Mak-Cas: Celestron C90. This time, the improvement in photography is dramatic because the baffle tube has a flat shiny surface. You can see the poor contrast in the before flocking pic (up) versus the enhanced contrast in the after flocking pic (down), even with the second one being a backlit image. The pics were taken with an APS-C camera attached to Mak 90 prime focus and are shown as the raw files without cropping. This time, I used a piece of adhesive black velour of 53x120 mm, leaving a few milimetres of the inner end of the baffle tube unflocked. A cylindrical stick helped me to perfectly stick the velour inside the thin tube of this small catadioptric telescope. Regards, Leo
  2. Hi, friends! Now I've just flocked a Sky-Watcher Mak 180 (Maksutov-Cassegrain f/15 180 mm) using a piece of adhesive black velour 100,5 mm wide and 255 mm long. Here are the pics taken before flocking (left) and after flocking (right) using a Canon full-frame camera. Regards, Leo
  3. A bird digiscoped with flocked C5 and APS-C format camera... http://www.alarconpapeleriatecnica.com/actualidad/ficheros/celestron/gorrion_chillon-c5-DSC06534.JPG
  4. Excuse me, the unflocked section must be longer on the back end to avoid extra vignetting.
  5. Yes, the small cylinder that goes through the primary mirror. You must flock the inside, leaving about 2 or 3 millimetres on each end unflocked in order to keep minimum vignetting.
  6. Actually, vignetting would be an issue with full frame format, but not with more conventional, APS-C and smaller sensors. Full frame with flocked C5 (first) - APS-C with flocked C5 (second)
  7. Well, there may be some improvement in contrast if you flock the main tube, but I guess it would be minimal. The most important part is the baffle tube so you can avoid the halo rings, leaving some millimetres unflocked to reduce the vignetting. Regards, Leo
  8. I forgot to mention that the image was taken with a full frame camera.
  9. Hi, I've just flocked a NexStar 5SE (C5) using a piece of velour of 78.5x147 mm, leaving unflocked about 3 mm at the inner end of the baffle and 5 mm at the outer end -- this gives minimum vignetting. This time I forgot to take a before flocking pic, but you can see the final result. Regards, Leo
  10. By the way, I must say that I sharpened the RAW image to compensate smoothing of the anti-aliasing filter of the camera.
  11. Yesterday, I could take a good sample image using the flocked Mak 150 and Sony A6000 (APS-C format EVIL camera)... http://www.alarconpapeleriatecnica.com/actualidad/ficheros/sky-watcher/lavandera_blanca-mak150-DSC06150.jpg Regards, Leo
  12. The pics are done with a Canon full frame camera. The exposure time is 0.5 s, with ISO 800 in the first pic (uflocked) and ISO 1600 in the second pic (flocked).
  13. Hi, friends, Now, I've just flocked a Sky-Watcher Mak 150 (6"). I've come back to this topic because I have discovered, with the Mak 150, that leaving a few milimetres near the back end of the baffle tube unflocked gives a better filed illumination, with a little less vignetting. In this case, I have used a piece of black velour of 81x155 mm, leaving about 8 mm of the back end unflocked -- and so the inner last milimetres of the cylinder. Here are the comparative pics: Regards, Leo
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