New Toy

[sologuitarist61]

In my case that "clutch" was sold under a different name. I think they called it a "drive belt"

James

What? Put it on when you wanted it and take it off when you didn't?

[JamesF]

Spot on

James

[sologuitarist61]

Spot on

James

Don't you just love technology :grin:

[Seafury]

1. Hi Richard did you have to do that as someone else no sun either now
   

gordon

[sologuitarist61]

Sorry about that Gordon

And piddling down with rain yet again this morning :embarassed: :embarassed:

[sologuitarist61]

Here are a couple more images taken today. All are taken with a Canon 50d attached to a Baader 13mm @ 9.2mm (28mm ext) through a Skywatcher 120 Star Travel. The first two are just the same group from two different perspectives, the third has been over-sharpened in Photoshop Unsharp Mask to try and bring out more detail from the group, but am not sure if it works or is too pixelated. You will need to view full size to se the difference between images 2 & 3.

Yours thoughts would be welcome

[scoobee]

Richard, looking very good to me, liking pic one the most if that helps.

[LukeSuppalot]

Hi Richard.

The pics are looking good and the focus is much improved. You're probably right about the last one being slightly overpixelated but there is definitely much more detail in it. I prefer it to the unsharpened image.

I must say that the Herschel wedge looks to be a really nice piece of kit. You're getting some great results.

[sologuitarist61]

Richard, looking very good to me, liking pic one the most if that helps.

Always helps Matt to know what others prefer. To be honest it is pretty muchlike feeling my own way through this lot, if you know what i mean, blind leading the blind. I see what others are doing and try to get the same. Thanks

[sologuitarist61]

Hi Richard.

The pics are looking good and the focus is much improved. You're probably right about the last one being slightly overpixelated but there is definitely much more detail in it. I prefer it to the unsharpened image.

I must say that the Herschel wedge looks to be a really nice piece of kit. You're getting some great results.

Thanks Luke, I thought that about the focus to, but I will enclose a sub from picture 2 so that you can see what I mean

So I think it was the stacking of a number of images that aided the focus as well as the unsharp mask in Photoshop

[scoobee]

Always helps Matt to know what others prefer. To be honest it is pretty muchlike feeling my own way through this lot, if you know what i mean, blind leading the blind. I see what others are doing and try to get the same. Thanks

Richard to be honest I consider trying to emulate others work is what drives us all when it comes to general photograph let alone astrophotography.

I Did think about getting those Thousand Oaks solar filters, any thoughts?

[sologuitarist61]

Richard to be honest I consider trying to emulate others work is what drives us all when it comes to general photograph let alone astrophotography.

I Did think about getting those Thousand Oaks solar filters, any thoughts?

True, especially in general photography, I can never figure out why some people take a really simple picture that just screams G.R.E.A.T !! at you, whilst I take masterpeices that don't!! :grin:

Yes the Thousand Oaks will do nicely. The wedge I use can only be used with refractors up to 120mm anyway

[LukeSuppalot]

So I think it was the stacking of a number of images that aided the focus as well as the unsharp mask in Photoshop

Hi Richard. See what you mean.

I picked up a s/hand 250px recently and it had this added to the focuser

It's just a circle of wood with 6 x 4mm holes drilled around the edge and bolted to the focuser wheel. The 4mm bar just pushes into a hole of your choice and allows much finer adjustment of the focuser. It looks a bit heath robinson but it works extremely well.

I was also wondering if there is a focusing aid like a Bahtinov mask which could be used for solar imaging.

[sologuitarist61]

Hi Richard. See what you mean.

I picked up a s/hand 250px recently and it had this added to the focuser

It's just a circle of wood with 6 x 4mm holes drilled around the edge and bolted to the focuser wheel. The 4mm bar just pushes into a hole of your choice and allows much finer adjustment of the focuser. It looks a bit heath robinson but it works extremely well.

I was also wondering if there is a focusing aid like a Bahtinov mask which could be used for solar imaging.

Good thinking Luke, I like that; with the extra leverage you should be able to make small increments to the focusing that would be hard to acheive with the wheel directly.

I think you need a point source to use a Bahtinov mask, so that is out for solar. The main trouble I am finding is the DSLR focusing screen. They are made to be used with lenses of f4 and faster and throught the scope at f5 it can look dim and grainy and that makes life difficult. Strangely for such a bright object I have to use averted vision on the sunspot to acheive good focus, if I look at it directly it becomes more difficult. How silly is that? The trouble is I don't believe yo can get different screens for either the Canon 30d or 50d, so I guess I will have to struggle.

[LukeSuppalot]

I like that; with the extra leverage you should be able to make small increments to the focusing that would be hard to acheive with the wheel directly.

The main trouble I am finding is the DSLR focusing screen. They are made to be used with lenses of f4 and faster and throught the scope at f5 it can look dim and grainy and that makes life difficult. Strangely for such a bright object I have to use averted vision on the sunspot to acheive good focus, if I look at it directly it becomes more difficult. How silly is that? The trouble is I don't believe yo can get different screens for either the Canon 30d or 50d, so I guess I will have to struggle.

It actually came with 2 bars. The second bar is twice the length of the one in the pics and allows much finer adjustment.

I must say that when using the longer bar at night for visual, once focus is achieved, lock the focuser and most importantly REMOVE THE BAR! If you don't and forget it's there, you may find that the bright blue, yellow and red lights and the agonizing pain shooting through your viewing eye as it tries to impail itself on the bar, is only made worse by the realization that the focus you spent ages getting has now been disturbed and your eye isn't going to stop watering for a good 20mins. You'll only forget the once mind.

I take it from your post you haven't had any luck finding a Canon/laptop lead of a suitable length then. Outputting "Live View" to a laptop screen should be a vast improvement over the camera screen IMO.

[sologuitarist61]

Got a 5m one in the post (hopefully)

[JamesF]

I was also wondering if there is a focusing aid like a Bahtinov mask which could be used for solar imaging.

You might try a Hartmann mask. Not sure how it could be rigged up with the solar filter, but it's the best option I can think of at the moment.

James

[JamesF]

I picked up a s/hand 250px recently and it had this added to the focuser

That's like a much neater variation of the clothes peg that I used to use on my Mak focuser knob

James

[LukeSuppalot]

You might try a Hartmann mask. Not sure how it could be rigged up with the solar filter, but it's the best option I can think of at the moment.

I've had a good look on the net and it appears that a Hartmann mask can be used for solar but I couldn't find any info on how exactly you use it, which is just typical.

Got a 5m one in the post (hopefully)

Excellent! All thats needed now is a clear morning sky. Mmmmm.... could be a bit of a wait for one of those I suspect.

[LukeSuppalot]

That's like a much neater variation of the clothes peg that I used to use on my Mak focuser knob

James

Neater it may be but I bet the peg is less painful!!!

[JamesF]

I've had a good look on the net and it appears that a Hartmann mask can be used for solar but I couldn't find any info on how exactly you use it, which is just typical.

There seem to be loads of variations, but let's say you use three triangles. My understanding is that when the scope is out of focus you see three triangles in the eyepiece/camera. As the scope comes towards focus you should see the triangles start to overlay each other until you just get see a single triangle, at which point you're in focus.

James

[LukeSuppalot]

There seem to be loads of variations, but let's say you use three triangles. My understanding is that when the scope is out of focus you see three triangles in the eyepiece/camera. As the scope comes towards focus you should see the triangles start to overlay each other until you just get see a single triangle, at which point you're in focus.

Triangles. I can do triangles. It's circles and curves I struggle with.I've got to try making one just to see how it performs.

[sologuitarist61]

There seem to be loads of variations, but let's say you use three triangles. My understanding is that when the scope is out of focus you see three triangles in the eyepiece/camera. As the scope comes towards focus you should see the triangles start to overlay each other until you just get see a single triangle, at which point you're in focus.

James

Yep, I think even I can cut three triangle from a piece of card , might lose the odd finger in the process but hey, you can't stand in the way of progress can you?

[JamesF]

Just try not to get blood on the primary

James

[sologuitarist61]

OOOooooppps . Too late :Envy: