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New Toy


sologuitarist61

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I'm looking forward to seeing some images from it. Out of interest, which scope do you use it with?

To be honest Luke I haven't used it on either yet (which is :cussing: frustarting (thanks Mods for allowing this smilie -sometimes a 'cuss' word is needed!!)). However I have tried it on both as it will work with any refractor under 150mm aperture. As I will be needing to attach a DSLR onto it I will probably use it with the SW as that has a 'tighter' focuser. Having just said that I suddenly realised that I could use the QHY5 couldn't I? I only think of it as a guide camera but imagining is possible too isn't it?

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Having just said that I suddenly realised that I could use the QHY5 couldn't I? I only think of it as a guide camera but imagining is possible too isn't it?

Certainly can. If it works for the moon and planets it should work for the sun too.

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Have to look into that Luke as it is certainly lighter than a DSLR :smiley: :smiley:

Sharpcap or WXAstrocapture should work well for video and are easy to use. Both are freeware and available for downloading

Sharpcap is here:- http://www.sharpcap.co.uk/sharpcap/downloads

Wxastrocapture is here :- http://arnholm.org/astro/software/wxAstroCapture/ but requires a Yahoo ID.

If you have any problems downloading them I have a copy of both on disc so I can easily send you the programs by post or by Email.

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I really must get a PST or Lunt, but the price at the moment is out of the question for me and second hand are as rare as hens teeth, Have to make do with the Lunt Herschel wedge and white light. Still no sun down here and I've had the darned thing for over a fortnight. I am dying to see what the difference see between a straight image through the wedge and one with the solar continuum filter in place.

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Had a bit of sun today so here are a couple taken between the clouds. Focus isn't spot on (need to get a Crayford folcuser when money allows), so there was more detail to the eye than was recorded by the camera. Never mind I'll put two on anyway. The first is with the Baader Solar Continuum Filter in place, the second without it. Both pictures were taken with the DSLR attached to my Baader Hyperion 13mm EP.

The only difference I can see is that one is more golden than the other, but without being able to see fine detail it is difficult to say. Will try again another day. On a positive note the wedge hardly got hot at all, just a bit warm.

As I only had about twenty minutes to get it set up and the pictures taken I am quite pleased with the first attempt

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post-21806-0-19027100-1341944928_thumb.j

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It's so difficult trying to image between the clouds, the pressure mounts and there never seems to be enough time to experiment with all the camera settings.

Glad you got to have a stab at it though.

Do you mind if I ask where you got the wedge from? They seem to be a bit difficult to get hold of. Oh, and what focal length scope are you using?

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No trouble Jamie - I got it from telescope Express in Germany (once in just click on the Union Jack and it gives it all to you in English - very civilised!!). The exhange rate fluctuates but I got the 1.25" version for about £175.

As mentioned already it means I can use it on both of my refractors. The only problem is with imaging and you have to use an EP that you can attach the DSLR, but I have have two Hyperions which has a mount built in and you just need the adapter.. It you have a EP with T ring attachment than it is a piece of cake. I also have two GSO with the required ring built in.

I ordered after lunch one day and it was showing as despatch that same evening, and arrived just two days later. Brilliant service especially as I could find anyone who had it is stock in the UK and the prices were over £200 plus postage. Could have kicked myself, as later I wanted a Hyperion 13mm and saw that 365 Astro had it is stock so ordered it only to find that the postage charges go on after you have almost completed the ordering process - should have got it from Telescope Express as at least the charges are up front and it would have work out cheaper. Only by a tenner or so, but 1/10th of yet another Hyperion EP!! :Envy:

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I quite agree about TS. i've bought a 6" reflector, diagonal, filters and adaptors from them and the service has been top notch everytime. Looks like another purchase is coming their way.

The reason I asked about focal length (I meant to say ratio) is because the Lunt is f8.3 so the QHY5 has a large enough chip to image the full disk.

One other thing, have you read Bizibilder's guide? It's a must read.

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Sorry forgot to answer the last bit, didn't I? Both my refractors are in the f5/f6 range which isn't the best for solar work where a longer focal ratio would give a larger image, but I got them mainly for imaging DSO's where I needed the larger field of view with the camera a prime focus. I really need to uograde to APO's (or at least ED glass doublets) but will have to make do until more pennies become available

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Yes, dodging the clouds for the most part :smiley: I really need to sort out the focusing though. Looking through the camera it appeared to all be in good focus with the spots standing out clearly, but the images are so-so focus wise, so I am not sure what is going on. Also a bit disappoint that the sun spots appear to be blue (to my eyes anway) and not black, but that may be to do with a bright light source and achromat telescopes. Perhaps I need to upgrade to an ED glass, or a proper APO. I agree with what you say about the filter, doesn't seem to do a lot other that tint the image, but perhaps if I was able to get tighhter in on the sun more surface detail might be visible. Oh well try again on the next sunny day - December 2nd I believe :grin:

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I

I quite agree about TS. i've bought a 6" reflector, diagonal, filters and adaptors from them and the service has been top notch everytime. Looks like another purchase is coming their way.

The reason I asked about focal length (I meant to say ratio) is because the Lunt is f8.3 so the QHY5 has a large enough chip to image the full disk.

One other thing, have you read Bizibilder's guide? It's a must read.

Having said that I have just seen that 365 astro have the Lunt Herschel wedge for £140 (+p&p) whether it is is stock or not is a different matter.

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Regarding getting a Crayford Richard, there are those who suggest they're not a good idea for imaging because they can slip under the load of the camera and if that's true then I guess the problem has the potential to be exacerbated by the addition of a wedge.

I don't know what the ins and outs of the problem are, but it might be worth asking around and getting an understanding of the issues before committing yourself to that path.

James

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Thanks for that James, it is difficult to know what to do. I only really want the Crayford for the 10:1 utility as I find it hard to achieve focuser with the standard focuser. However I have been a bit more successful to today (see pictures above) but had the have the focuser lock quite tight. Perhaps what I need is a electric auto focuser with fast and slow motion buttons and that might be the answer, it is certainly a cheaper option and I am all for that :grin: I actually bought one once but couldn't figure out how to get the silber focuser knobs off as there was no signs of screws holding them on. Then I heard someone say that you have to use brute force as they are screwed onto the shaft with LOK-TITE.So I gave it a go and they do infact unscrew. Any wau FLO were very goodf and took it back as they didn't have the answer either.

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It is possible to get dual speed rack and pinion focusers too. With my planetary imaging though I found that a motorised focuser made a world of difference. You can twiddle about with things and the image stays nicely centred without wobbling. Oddly however the one thing it doesn't seem to save time because now I can spend ages racking it back and forth to get the most optimal focus whereas when doing it by hand I found that I'd eventually just accept that I couldn't get it any better.

James

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Yes I have heard that this is the case and it is one of the things that makes me think twice - the other thing is how well doesn't the motorised focuser hold the drawtube in the focused position?

It really needs someone to invent a motorised focuser with a clutch mechanism so that you can quick focus with the existing wheel and the engage it when you wabt to fine focus. Wouldn't have thought it would be hard to do but how many sales would get out of it? Thanks James for the info

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Oddly however the one thing it doesn't seem to save time because now I can spend ages racking it back and forth to get the most optimal focus whereas when doing it by hand I found that I'd eventually just accept that I couldn't get it any better.

James

Lol! That sounds very familiar.

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