Chris's Obsy build

[Chris]

Thanks Pete:)

[Chris]

I've been a bit stumped about what to do with the obsy roof? the 2 roof panels that came with the shed are both heavy and require a lot of reinforcing especially where they meet to form the pitch.

I think the best idea I have so far is to use the existing roof but lighten it by removing a lot of the tongue and groove in order to form a light frame, then cover the frame with light weight coroline. The biggest problem seems to be how do I attach the two panels so they form a sturdy pitched roof, steel angle brackets? timber bracing? I can move the outer longitudinal roof timbers in a bit so they coincide with the top of the wall so I can attach wheels and U-channel.

or I could build a new frame from scratch, but it would be nice to make use of what I already have:)

[malc-c]

I've been a bit stumped about what to do with the obsy roof? the 2 roof panels that came with the shed are both heavy and require a lot of reinforcing especially where they meet to form the pitch.

I think the best idea I have so far is to use the existing roof but lighten it by removing a lot of the tongue and groove in order to form a light frame, then cover the frame with light weight coroline. The biggest problem seems to be how do I attach the two panels so they form a sturdy pitched roof, steel angle brackets? timber bracing? I can move the outer longitudinal roof timbers in a bit so they coincide with the top of the wall so I can attach wheels and U-channel.

or I could build a new frame from scratch, but it would be nice to make use of what I already have:)

I would always recommend a custom build rather than trying to strengthen up a commercial shed, which in their nature will of used the cheapest of materials to keep costs down, unless you go to a quality shed supplier and then the cost are comparable to a self build, especially if you shop around for materials.

Chris, I did comment on the issues of converting a shed to do something it wasn't intended to do.

My advice, should you wish to take it, would be to cut the ridges off the front and back of the shed so they are the same height of the walls. Strengthen the framework up as IMO the panels won't take the weight of a new roof (If you look at the roof construction it's purposely made as light as possible). Then use minimum 2" x 1" at 16" centres and make a new rafter section. Fix this to a 2" x 4" frame that will sit on wheels on top of the walls, then use the existing ply sheeting to clad the roof section.

The issue you face is to keep it light enough so as not to put strain on the existing framework, but sturdy enough so that it will survive 40mph winds. Unfortunately these are the consequences of doing a shed conversion

[nightvision]

That shed looks long enough to have the roof above the obs section roll over the warm room, So you could use the roof timber you have to make a warm room roof and brace the existing structure. Then just build a roof over the obs section that rolls off along rails above the eaves of the warm room.

[malc-c]

Just noticed its T&G roof, which if fitted (screwed) to a frame as suggested would make for a strong but light roof

[nightvision]

I agree with Malcolm on cutting the walls the same height but it might require raising the all-round wall height a little to clear the door. If you went for an almost flat roof just over the warm room it would help simplify the design/build and runners for the roll-off..

[Chris]

Malc, yes its t&g thoughout, I don't mind having issues with converting a shed as long as they are solvable issues so its always nice to get peoples opinions on here so I can see the pro's and cons of every which way and weigh them up against my own circumstances, thanks to this forum the idea of me having any type of obsy at all has basically gone from a day dream to something which is well on its way to being reality!

Thanks for the push to cut the ridges I've thought about doing this previously then spent ages trying to find a way in which I would not have to do this because it would coincide with the height of the door, I wasn't sure if there would be any consequence to this, but like you say by the time I've done all the reinforcing I've been talking about doing it should be ok, I don't think it will matter if there is reinforcing timber going across the door just below door height. Then as you suggest I can make a frame for the pitched roof to sit on, even though its t&g I'm still concerned about the weight, so what do you think of my idea to lighten the panels by removing some t&g and a couple of the 2x1.25's and cover with Coroline, or is this just overkill because its not too heavy to leave it as is and secure it to frame as suggested.

[Chris]

Nightvision- thanks yes I was concerned about the door too, could I just plane a few mil of the top of the door so it doesn't catch on the RoR?

I like the sound of having a fixed roof over the warm room:) I put myself off it a while ago becasue I couldn't quite get my head around how I would do it with such things as water proofing as although there would be an over lap how do you stop water ingress? but I totally agree that it would make many other apsects more simple and it would mean a much lighter rolling roof over a more rigid structure, I do like it I will give this some more thought thanks:)

[malc-c]

Chris,

DPC has 1001 uses. I've used it to provide a barrier under the felt on my flat roofed warm room. In the attached sketch the red line is the wide (breeze block size) DPC with the felt represented as the green line. The roof has a fall on it to the rear

[Chris]

Thanks Malc, I've book marked p9 of you build thread to have a closer look:)

[Chris]

Bit of a progress update,

I've pinned down some 6mm marine ply onto the existing 12mm t&g floor to help firm things up a bit.

[Chris]

Built the frame work for the warm room which will support the fixed roof, used 2x1 treated timbers doubled up in places and angle brackets added for strength. I need to add some more angle brackets but I will do this once the fixed roof is on. I also have some heavy duty angle brackets for the four main corners to help firm up the structure as a whole.

[shellfish]

Looking good Just need some better weather now lol

[Andyfx]

Now this is impressive Chris, now I know why you're so excited

Good work, keep it up!

[Chris]

Thanks Guys:) slowly hacking away at it with the odd hour here and there:), I've added some more timber and brackets and made up a pier adapter using 18mm ply and M12 threaded bar. Using ply for the pier adapter is a bit of an experiment but its worth a go before I try and drill some steel:)

[samtheeagle]

Very interesting work with the wood there. Can't wait to hear how you get on with it, as it would be an interesting thing to try in my build.

[shellfish]

Nights are drawing in.... Days to do are getting through tillwe get some tile under the stars again.... How goes the build ??????????

[Chris]

Very interesting work with the wood there. Can't wait to hear how you get on with it, as it would be an interesting thing to try in my build.

I'll keep you posted Sam:) I've since cut the M12 bar to the correct length and reduced the distance between the plates to the correct distance, and when all tightened up with the big washers and tripod plate on top it feels very solid indeed so hopefully fingers crossed it will work, if so it might make a cheap and easy alternative to the metal/ali plates:)

[Chris]

Hey Shellfish:) since the pier adapter all I've managed to do is buy materials for the fixed roof section and cut them to size: 12mm ply 6'x4' and 2"x1"x6' treated timber. My plan is to pre-fab the fixed roof so it will go up quicker when I get the chance:)

[Andyfx]

Looking good there Chris you're really getting there now! You could always use steel plate against the wood on the pier to strengthen if need be....

[Chris]

Thanks Andy:), yeah if the wood isn't good then I'll reinforce it like you say, if it does work then it might catch on you never know.

[Chris]

Heres the finished pre-fabricated warm room roof ready to fix onto the warm room framing. It will overhang the front of the obsy by several inches so rain water clears the door at the front, the raised strips of wood at the sides and back are to channel water away from the rails and main telescope room. Before I fix it I need to think a bit more about how to make the roof slope down towards the front of the obsy, my initial thought is to add a bit of timber to the top of the warm room framing at the back so it simply fixes on a slope then fill any gaps with wood filler and little wedges of timber.

[Andyfx]

Coming along nicely, are you going to be in for winter lol ;-)

[Chris]

Thats the plan Andy mate:) I was meant to have all of today to work on it but I was thwarted by a stomach bug striking our household so I've been looking after my wife and baby boy all day, its not been a fun day, and I strongly suspect that it will be my turn to get it next, I'm not eating anything too lumpy just in case

[Gina]

Nasty Hope you all get better soon