Skywatcher GoTo annoying me!

[dabiscuit]

Hello all.

I am having a hard time fully calibrating my skywatcher GoTo scope. I am putting in the right time, date and gps location, but when I do two star align you have to find the first star manually. It then finds the second star itself, but because I can't accurately find the first it's always slightly off (never in view through a 25mm eye piece).

I also have the scope facing north before any calibrating takes place.

Is there a better way to calibrate it or a better way of finding the first stars position?

I feel like I am missing stuff because I can't find things manually, though I am starting to learn the sky.

Cheers ya'll!

[Spikey]

The first one is usually out unless you're lucky. It's the accuracy of you getting this first sync as near to the centre of the EP as possible that determines the accuracy of the next slew to. An illuminated reticule can assist.

[Cunhaval]

but because I can't accurately find the first it's always slightly off

Not exactly certain what you mean by that, but finding the first star accurately is essential to the process.

Choose one of the handset listed stars that's in a part of the sky that you can see. Navigate to it (use stellarium, or google sky maps, or "Turn left at Orion", or a star chart to give you an idea where it is) using the direction buttons on the handset. Get it smack in the centre of the crosshairs of your finder scope or red dot finder. Provided that your finder scope is synched with your main scope, the star should be at least visible in a 25mm eyepiece. Then use the directional buttons AGAIN to absolutely centre the star in your eyepiece view. Press OK on the handset, and choose the 2nd star. Repeat the centering process with the directional buttons, before pressing OK. Job (hopefully) done.

Oh, and before starting, make sure that the scope mount is ABSOLUTELY level - the little spirit level on the mount is not very accurate. Spending time on levelling will greatly improve the accuracy of the GoTo.

Know how you feel, though - the mount nearly drove me bonkers at first, but it's fairly second nature now.

Good luck

[Tinker1947]

One other thing, when you centre the first star, change to a high power EP (low mm number) and re-centre again, i surpose you could also stick a Barlow in just to get that last little bit of accuracy, then change back to your wide EP and align to the 2nd star and then use the high power ep agian.

[Capricorn]

If you do not have the first star in view then you have not done the alignment at all.

Pick a star that is reletively isolated Sirius, Rigel, Betelgeuese, Capella, one of them will be in the list, BUT before hand work out which is which so you do not waste time working out where to point the scope.

Slew the scope so that whichever one you choose is in the centre of the finder scope, then look through the main scope and centre the star in that one. Press whatever key - OK, Enter or whatever is on the Skywatcher.

[Aenima]

Hi,

Here's hoping you got a bit further on your Goto tonight as there were some nice clear intervals to make use of. I recently bought a SW 130p AZgoto, I unfortunately had to come to terms with this being close to the lower end of the Goto technology, it wont be as accurate as you would ultimately like. Having said this, you will come to benefit from its instant target finding ability, since starmaps and even stellarium can be a little hard to get your head round at first. I use stellarium but still have to fiddle a bit to match the screenshot with what I actually see outside wit6h naked eyes. If you can access it while alligning your stars up it helps a great deal, even if its just to learn the names and familliarise yourself with the best stars to use.

Another thing is always using the same time source and not taking too long to align the second star, using the right co-ordinates is essential and covered already elsewhere on this forum. If you have aa problem getting the handset to allow you to choose stars in a certain part of the sky you can set it to give the stars alphabetically during setup/menu alignment rather than a set list or choosing north/east sky etc, Otherwise I can't think of much else, you got the idea right, you may just need practice.

Good luck,

Jay.

[Steve 1962]

The key to this is to align your scope and finder in daylight. Then when you come to align the GOTO, centre the first star in the finder first, then refine by centering the star through an eyepiece...then repeat for two or three stars. If you don't align each star accurately, your mount will next GOTO properly.

Keep practicing - it'll come and when it does it'll feel like second nature.

Steve

[nowayjose256]

I'm having the same problems as the OP.

One question I have.

Should you always use the handset to centre the first star (after the goto has found it) or can you move the scope manually.

I keep reading different things about this and now I'm a bit confused.

[Cornelius Varley]

I'm having the same problems as the OP.

One question I have.

Should you always use the handset to centre the first star (after the goto has found it) or can you move the scope manually.

I keep reading different things about this and now I'm a bit confused.

You should you use the handset to adjust the mount if the mount is the azgoto. If it is an equatorial mount you can declutch the mount are manually adjust the alignment for the first star only

Peter

[brucen]

I'm having the same problems as the OP.

One question I have.

Should you always use the handset to centre the first star (after the goto has found it) or can you move the scope manually.

I keep reading different things about this and now I'm a bit confused.

I think this depends on the system you have. With the AZ GOTO you cannot move it manually as it is fixed and the handset is the only option. If it is set up level and the stars carefully centred mine will track an object for as long as I am ever likely to want to look at it. I can always get a 3 min clip on the webcam even using the 3x Barlow. When moving to a new object I sometimes have to revert to the 25mm eyepiece and can't think of any occasion it has not been in view although it is normally in sight using a 10mm. After a while you do need to correct the alignment by holding the esc key for a few seconds then centring the object and pressing enter to confirm. (Pointing Accuracy Enhancement in the manual) This compensates for any drift there has been and I tend to do it after every 2 or 3 moves I make. I always level the mount using a 12" spirit level on the eyepiece tray as I struggle to see the built in bubble and, even when it looks plumb centre, the spirit level usually shows it's slightly out. When I got the scope last year it took me 2 or 3 attempts to get it set up and often spread out over 15 - 20 minutes. Now I have got used to it it never takes more than 5 mins.

[cspindley]

In the day time set your mount up and make sure it's all level I usually get my mount level then rotate the scope 360• and watch the level as it goes round. Once done aim your scope at something in the distance like a telegraph pole or church something good with a point on it works best,make sure your image is in the centre of your eyepiece. I recommend downloading a program called best pair 2 it's a star alignment program and shows which are the brightest stars and what is viable at your location it also picks the best two stars to align your scope with. Give your eyes at least 20 minutes to adapt to the dark this will make you see a lot more. Make sure you know which star your pointing at and don't take too long to align your second star once finding the first one. Hope this helps anyone that is stuck. Clear skies and good luck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hemihaggis]

Find Orion , find betelguse ,its the top left star , its kinda gold coloured , usd this as first star

[starnut]

Have a look here it explains the goto very well

[Aenima]

I think this depends on the system you have. With the AZ GOTO you cannot move it manually as it is fixed and the handset is the only option. If it is set up level and the stars carefully centred mine will track an object for as long as I am ever likely to want to look at it. I can always get a 3 min clip on the webcam even using the 3x Barlow. When moving to a new object I sometimes have to revert to the 25mm eyepiece and can't think of any occasion it has not been in view although it is normally in sight using a 10mm. After a while you do need to correct the alignment by holding the esc key for a few seconds then centring the object and pressing enter to confirm. (Pointing Accuracy Enhancement in the manual) This compensates for any drift there has been and I tend to do it after every 2 or 3 moves I make. I always level the mount using a 12" spirit level on the eyepiece tray as I struggle to see the built in bubble and, even when it looks plumb centre, the spirit level usually shows it's slightly out. When I got the scope last year it took me 2 or 3 attempts to get it set up and often spread out over 15 - 20 minutes. Now I have got used to it it never takes more than 5 mins.

Hi there,

Wow, it sounds like you have the set-up down well good. I have the 130 AZ and to be honest, the extra kit you mention in your signature is pretty much the set-up i want to complete my kit. I was hoping you could tell me a little more about how you get decent images from your scope and maybe advise me on technique too. See, what you describe is something my own (limited) experience of the 130p az goto and many other stargazers have discouraged me from, and yet i would like to try anyway. When i get sorted i will be buying similar accesories to yours and have the same goal in mind. Your post is most encouraging, thank you.

Hope you dont mind my enquiry.

regards

Jay

[Aenima]

Something I have had trouble with is if the star you are aiming for is right next to another of the same brightness, and the finder scope shows only one of them, it can be doubtful if the goto has misaligned or if the finderscope might be off just enough to be showing you the wrong star.

I usually sight/aim along the length of the finderscope, so looking along the top I can see its angle in relation to the sky (unmagnified) which helps tell the stars apart.

Also, however simple or obvious, remember the basics like connecting the OPA (main tube) to the mount so it points the right way (the stickers line up), or getting the daylight saving time,etc, right or some other handset data.

These things that people might overlook and say it couldnt possibly be the problem, these things can easily get missed while still learning. So.. go back to the basics, read up on the details and methodically move through until you reach the point where it works as it should.

Sorry about the lengthy post, was up late and the clouds outside are terrible so had a big gap in my shedule, hope you work it out.

regards

Jay

[dabiscuit]

Guys, thanks so much for all the help.

I now have it bang on place and have made my self a little mark on the floor so I know what angle the scope needs to start at.

I use Betelguese as my first star as in that area of the sky, it's bright and the only one that colour so easy to separate from others!

Cheers again.