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Capricorn

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Everything posted by Capricorn

  1. Some scope you enter (for example) 2° 15' W - where you specify West by the "W". Others West is Negative so you enter -2° 15'. In effect if the scope is expecting +/- and you don't put the -ve bit the data has the scope East of the meridian. Cannot recall the start position of the scope. Someone should be able to clarify that. Thinking about it what version of software are you running? The newer ones have an alignment based on Polaris (I think), oddly most astronomers can find that so I think that an alignment start may be aim scope at Polaris. Just thinking that if you have it level and the s
  2. Isn't there a start position for the scope, before you start the alignment?
  3. Might help if you said which hand controller, Meade, Celestron, Skywatcher, AWR, iOptron .........
  4. No, I didn't know that the great dark spot on Neptune is the windiest place on Earth ? Would have expected to find it on Neptune.
  5. Have a search for Wrexham, someone was asking about how many people are around there, came up 2 or 3 days back I think, they may be trying to get a meet up sometime. Found it: Wrexham People
  6. So far we have a person thinking they really need 2 eyepatches - one for each eye presumably, and a woman with a black cloth over her head. :eek: :eek:
  7. Good hat, good shoes/boot, good coat/jacket. No one say that you will need £200-300 of good warm clothing and boots. Curious about the oil stone, so far never needed one for anything or even come close to needing one.
  8. First question is are you sure it is not moving, they move very slowly and can often be mistaken for not working. Found/read of this site in the US for bits: Potential spares: Think they ship to the UK, believe I read of someone getting bits over here. D Hinds are the importer for Celestron but they seem to prefer to act as importer only and for help prefer you to go via a retailer for spares and repairs. I half expect there is a pile of bits sat somewhere from returned broken scopes etc.
  9. One of the nice big Astro Physics refractors or a similar sized TMB, something around 132 would be nice.
  10. I would disagree with that, I see so many wanting to do AP with what is simply an utterly incorrect idea of what they need and how it works. So many what to do AP on the cheap as well, most photographers appreciate that you will have to spend money on the lens, and get the right lens, most in AP seem not to. An f number in AP is I think rarely really understood. How many posts asking about the magnification on prime focus imaging. How many get a manual dob for imaging - big heavy long scope for visual more then a little unsuitable for imaging. The very basic of the right type of mount is lost
  11. Cannot locate it at the moment but I have seen a couple of good shots of the milky way from a camera and lens. Somewhere on CN. From memory they didn't use a lens as wide as 50mm so yours should be OK. I also think that the image I saw was on a stationary tripod ansd a 20 or 30 second exposure. Short enough that rotation was not apparent. Obviously the darker the better. It will be a DSLR so just give it a go, you can always just delete any that don't turn out as good as you want.
  12. Clear here at present, been out looking at Jupiter and M42, just set the scope up at the front door so a bit limited. May try M42 after midnight when the lights get switched off. Slightly cold however, still getting over the thermal shock.
  13. I think the motors will move at 2x, 4x and 8x. Just had my scope out and for "fine" movement I was using 32x, so you can guess that 8x isn't going to be fast. Quite how the selection of 2x, 4x, 8x is made I am not sure on your handset.
  14. The old Meade ETX-70 had an adaptor for a camera tripod, and I assume that the ETX-80 is the same. Have an adaptor plate somewhere and used it for some years successfully with scope on a Slik tripod. Not sure about the ETX-90/105/125, although the 105 and 125 will need a pretty soid camera tripod, the 90 may be OK. These scopes have a flat base so an adaptor plate is relatively simple. Astro Engineering are the ones to ask about tripod adaptors, once you have decided on a scope.
  15. James, think it was Orbit, couldn't see why so much about weather cells as it doesn't matter which part of the orbit we are in, the coriolis force is present all the time. Mind you for working out the reasons for the changeable weather we get dumped on it it was fairly useful. We get weather from North, South, East and West and they appear to meet just about where we are and start arguing, then the Jet Stream comes along occasionally and causes more unsettled options.
  16. Doesn't matter if it is transparent it is a mirror you reflect off of the surface layer of aluminium, you never get any light even getting to the glass. It might as well be totally black and obaque.
  17. I would ignore the term theoretical maximum, it means very little and is as it says theoretical. Not many years back the maximum was 1.5xaperture, and I have seen 2.5x and 3x creeping in, think I read 4x once. If the theoretical occurred all the time why have cheap achros and expensive apo's, they would all deliver the same and we know they don't. Does a spherical mirror deliver the same as a parabolic ? If it did why are we/you paying for the parabolic. So the simple answer is they don't and 2x is pretty useless. After the eyepiece focal length being equal to the f number I have the view, rig
  18. Tend to balance it out. Years ago I bought 2 sets of binoculars from their sister group binoculars.com, they were on a very good offer and they shipped to the UK. Took a day and a half to get from Duluth Mn to me. Paid the import costs and I ended up spending less (just) on both pairs as I would have for the most costly here. Later bought a spotting scope and again excellent. Since then they have changed ownership, or some change has occurred, and they will no longer sell to the UK, shame as they are a lot less even after all costs. Part depends on your knowledge of optics. To me as long as al
  19. No idea where you re but the skies here all day have been nothing but cloud, I wonder if you have some cloud just high up The 5mm and the barlow are too much. The 5mm is I suspect as much as makes normal sense to use, you might get away with a 4mm. Think you have just found out that a small sharp image can be better then a large one. Think the 5mm would have been better then you describe, althiough I often read that the better the eyepiece the more there is a narrow band where the focus is sharp. So it could be the focuser is the problem. You often get people recommendignthe DS focuser as that
  20. There was program that covered our weather last week, turns out we are at the junction of 2 weather cells, one North the other South, and we have occasionally the jet stream over us. You start to realise that the chance of settled and clear weather is pretty small. I think it was mentioned that we are at what is possibly the worst point for anything consistant. Wish I could recall the program, may have been the one about our trip around the sun, it kept on about the coriolis force, which was what caused the climate cells or something similar. Basically we don't have a chance. Here's a picture:
  21. From a nebula the magnitude is a sum of all the light off of it. So it can be dim and big so still have a bright magnitude, M31 being the classic example. Brightest thing up there and so dim it is difficult to see, just happens to be big. A better option is to determine the surface brightness, there are lists running around the net so drag up google and start searching. In a 6" scope I would expect something down to Mag 12 or 14, but if the light pollution matches this then whatever is simply lost. The light pollution will be the limiting factor not the scope I would say.
  22. For a 127 get the longest eyepiece you can, you want all the field of view possible for the initial alignment. Pretty simple really the wider the view the better the chance of getting the first star or two in sight. Doesn't have to be a good quality eyepiece. I bought a 40mm for mine as the field of view is apparently fractionally more then that from a 32mm but so close probably not worth the difference if you can get a 32mm easily. As the scope will deliver a narrow view then the initial set up is critical, spending an extra five minutes will be worth getting the start position as good as you
  23. What do you mean by standard tripod ? If a camera tripod then you may be able to get an adaptor plate, used to be one for smaller Meade scopes some years back, not sure about Celestron and Skywatcher. You could equally mean EQ3-2 or EQ5 tripods. I think one of the Allt/Az goto's have a cup like base so not a flat base. Astro Engineering used to make the Meade to Camera tripod adaptor plates, no idea if they still do or if they make others.
  24. 1, Many people do build a grinding machine to do large mirrors or if they start making more then one. Google search should turn up a few designs, you would need a design capable of producing a parabolic profile, then you would need to figure by hand anything the "machine" could not produce, fiunally you need to test the mirror for the correct profile - that is not easy, have you an optical test bench for interfermetric measurements?. For one mirror probably not worth it. A GSO mirror is not that expensive and once ground you still need to have it silvered and coated Actually if you think about
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