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SPC900 LXmod yesyes style ;-)

yesyes

By yesyes
in DIY Astronomer

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Gina

Gina

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Now had a look around elsewhere on the web, including fleaBay. Nothing better for VFM. A half inch, higher power router would obviously be better but they're several times the price and beyond my budget.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Anweniel

Anweniel

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Finally got round to finishing mine. After my initial attempt was scuppered by some dodgy soldering, completely reapproached the connection between PCB and hub. Decided it was easier to join wires then try to neatly solder onto those tiny pins!

So the internal wiring looks a bit spaghettified but at least it works!

heres a pic of the finished article and my thanks to yesyes for the advice on usb-serial converter and the thread in the first place!

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  • 1 month later...
sulaco

sulaco

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At this very moment I'm sitting with all the components in front of me but does anyone know if I wanted to add a fan would i connect it to the same switch at pin 7 and base 7. I'm not planning to use the hub and opt for the usb & serial port to allow for the extra power for the fan.

Basically I'm grabbing at straws.....

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yesyes

yesyes

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Adding a fan is probably a good idea. I've tried that on my own modded cam but it was a 12V fan and it doesn't rotate most of the time (it worked fine when I tested before putting it in :D). I'm expecting delivery of a few 40mm 5Volt fans and will put one of these in when they arrive.

I connected the fan to the 5V output of the USB hub. A fan doesn't need much power. You can put a switch in series if you want to make it switchable.

You can't use the same switch as the LX on/off. Even if you used a double throw switch, that would mean the fan will only be on in one position (LX *or* normal mode).

The serial port doesn't provide any voltage. So that won't really help...

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George

George

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I'll give this nod a go now the EQ6 belt conversion is finished and out of the way, Ive ordered the USB port extender that you listed and Ive also found this http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/24436860/1-5-Metre-USB-To-RS232-Connector-With-PL2303-PL211-Chipset/Product.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518|cat:24436860|prd:24436860

Play are quite a large company so its likely to be the genuine thing :icon_salut:

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yesyes

yesyes

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George, it's the "PL211" bit that worries me. The ones I bought first also had that in their description. I checked on the Prolific website and they do not have a PL211 listed as a product.

Don't get me wrong. These will probably still work, but most likely not on 64bit Windows. You could ask Play what OS they support....

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Anweniel

Anweniel

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Toyed with the idea of adding an old pc fan switched with a seperate battery supply. Although it sounds space consuming and weighty, having the components to hand and the with easily enough space in the project box to accomodate both it really wasnt. Have had no cause for concern without the fan so far so haven't as yet attempted this. (just seemed a simpler solution than trying to decided where to put it into the circuit)

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  • 2 weeks later...
DIYASTRO

DIYASTRO

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Just thought I would post a couple of images of my guide camera using Chris's brilliant simple solution of single USB cable and the long exposure conversion.

I wanted to solve a problem of aquiring suitable guide stars without moving the whole guidescope within its rings, I also have scopes that have 'fixed' guidescopes so the option of moving the camera to locate is important.

You will see that I have mounted the camera boards on to a X/Y rack and pinion axis. This give around 25mm movement of the camera in either direction which should allow for location of suitable stars for the purpose of PHD guiding. For cirular movement simply rotates within the crayford focuser.

I have added a fan, 5V, .14mA.. the camera does warm up a good bit and thought it would be good to cool it down a little.

I am know toying with the idea of building another version with a built in GPUSB since spare usb connections are available, BUT.. its the power consumption that may be a problem. If you see this Chris, did you eventually measure the current drawn by your original circuit / camera? It would be interesting to know what that is!

The original lens is still screwed in to protect the chip which is a ICX098BL B&W about 4 x more sensative than the colour one.

As with all prototypes lots of room for improvements so anyone with constructive ideas would be great to hear them.

Boyd

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yesyes

yesyes

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Hi. That is looking great. I don't quite understand the 2 axis movement though. Do you mean it moves the sensor relative to the nosepiece?

I didn't get around to measuring the current yet, but will do this coming week.

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DIYASTRO

DIYASTRO

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Chris,

thanks for reply,

that is what it does, allows for a much greater field of view. You know how it is, you select the object that you want for your main image and center it / compose it and generally get the best framed image on your dslr only to find that the guide scope has to be moved because you have not got good enough guide star. Well this little webcam guider should help with that problem. I have a couple of scopes where the guide scope is fixed within the main tube which also houses the main imaging scope so if no guide star is available you have to compromise on the main composition. This will prevent that with luck!

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DIYASTRO

DIYASTRO

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Hi Craig,

The X/Y is opperated by the two knurled knobs one at the rear of the case which is left / right the other on the side wich is up / down. The idea is that the 'window' or projected image from the 80mm lens in this case, is of course much larger than the chip. Therefor, by having the capability of moving the chip across this image focus window is basically the same as having a chip around 25mm sq. in terms of field of view potential. I will get out and use some of the kit when domestic life and outdoor conditions allow! Perhaps this winter will be the time to design and begin building my obsy to put all the heavy gear into, You are the only other astroman that has seen it dont forget and you know how big and heavy it all is!

Boyd

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DIYASTRO

DIYASTRO

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Hi Reggie

Thanks, I have seen X/Y units that slip into the focuser and the camera then ataches to that but they take up a lot of back focus and difficult to use on some scopes.

The mod was a little difficult but worth the effort I am looking forward to trying it out with guide stars, should make life a little easier to aquire a suitable one!

I am starting to work on the drawings for a simular camera but with built in filter wheel controlled by the same usb / hub that controls the camera, we will see how that goes!

As for cost, well I suppose if you take all the bits into account and the hours to make it all happen I am not sure what the saving is! Actually, I just like to try and make as much of my own gear as possible, seems to give me more pleasure knowing that I made it myself somehow.

Regards

Boyd

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