Deadlake

650 USD translate to around £650 after VAT and duty. No slow-mo's are not an issue on this user thread: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/764622-nohs-mount-ct-20-finally-arrived/?hl=+ct#820820= I think once the encoders are fitted for non-planetary work where you want a tracking mount so you can concentrate on observing when the seeing lets you would be a good option.

Me too, however Tele Vue band mate blocks additional part of the red spectrum. Reading some more, some times you want this sometimes you do no. Usual answer you end up with both... 😀

I've been down this route as well: Current EP's APM 5, 13 and 20 mm XWA -> 20 mm XWA on back order since February, good to use if you have less contrast available due to < 21 SQM at your viewing site. APM 30 mm UFF and 2x 24 mm UFF Astronomik OIII filter Now BV's currently sourcing Max Bright II, hard to get like all astro equipment. For BV use planning to use 24 mm UFF Will add for BV use 17.5 mm Morpheus 12.5 mm Takahashi Abbe. I'd hold off not he 17 mm APM XWA as maybe to much overlap with the 17.5 mm Morpheus for BV use.

Have I got the correct url, this is not CN 😀 One solution is to buy Takahashi, APM, Nikon or Baader (from memory). Then no pesky undercuts.

Sorry for the reheat on this thread. What has the maxbright II got for low power viewing that is not present with the Mark V? Trying to make a choice on the two. If the majority of the time people are using BV's for planets and then go back to an EP for wide field views due to fainter objects then maybe the mark V is the better choice., however... Why go for the Mark V, I've read that the maxbright II had better collets, which give better alignment using a higher power EP, e.g. a 10 mm? For low power views I'd like to use the BV without a GPC or Barlow for correction. @Highburymark Which do you prefer Mark V or maxbright II?

How much cooling does your 130 mm need? I’m thinking mine needs around 60 minutes and that’s from being in the garage before Jupiter sharpens up.

@JeremyS did start another post on this under cuts first world problem. There is a large part of the APM EP zoom thread (even although it's not released) talking about the sky falling if it's got undercuts....

Good thread here on SCT and Orion linear BV: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/782572-c925-or-c11-and-orion-linear-binoviewers/ This part: "I can’t comment on 11” vs 9.25” but I can say that you need to choose eyepieces carefully for the linear. Keep the eyepiece FL x afov at or under 1000. Stated a different way, make sure the eyepiece field-stop is at or under 17.4mm. For example, I use 18mm afov 52 degree Baader orthoscopics with my linears and they work well. Others have used 25mm 40 degree eyepieces and liked those. I find that eye placement becomes more finicky with shorter focal-length eyepieces. I would recommend spending some time with an online fov calculator to see how various objects would show up with either the 11” or 9.25” scope for your intended eyepiece. It is possible to use both a reducer and an extender with the linear. I typically use my linear with lower powers and go to a different binoviewer when going for higher powers."

The lightest 120 mm APO out there, unless you FT it. 😀 Do you need a 100 mm APO now you have the 76? If there was a ScopeTech (like) mount that could take the 120TSA then I guess not.

If the scope did not need to portable, just take out to the garden which one would be your pick?

APM EP’s have a 1.25 to 2” adapter that screws in. For EP’s less then 20 mm this solution works fine and for APM and UO works from a cost perspective. Maybe a similar adapter could be 3D printed?

Come on Starlight would charge twice that price. 😀 it’s nearly $200 for a finder holder.

The UFF is a bulky beast, however relative to a 2" EP it's skinny and does not need so much infocus, which was the reason I bought one back in July. The other advantage is it's possible to use in a BV as well, so no need to splurge on two Tele Vue's EP's.

The 130 mm is shorter then the 103 mm, makes it less wieldy to get out. Also works well as an imaging scope if needed. 😃

The linear Orion BV does look a good option if you do not want to modify the light path length. @Louis D beat me to the CN review post. Do all SCT, Cassiegrains and CATS need to be collimate when using a BV?

Caviar is cheaper! 😀

Do you find your 130 F9.2 a little to big to get out most nights?

I forgot about this thread but then Jeremy posted, here you go in blue: Ps: @JeremyS presume you've posted your TSA120 already?

Typo, size e.g. 3.5”

I find my LZOS 130/6 is great for length, aperture and transport. Could be a little lighter, however that would mean giving up on FT focuser and rings. Like the 130GTX the shorter tube versus a 4” is preferable for transportation.

How do you adjust the scope buggy for height? I'm presuming the scope buggy has no adjustment, it's the tripod that gets adjusted?

How much weight does the FT add? Which side did you fit?

I thought Nikon’s NAV-HW line where a spin off from their microscope lines?

To explain the costs difference apart from the Tele Vue brand, a lot of EP's are made by KUO whereas Tele Vue fabrication is in Taiwan. If say APM or ES brands are going up then supply chain is having an influence on price. Cost of labour and raw materials. The free lunch is over maybe? Nikon and Takahashi are competitive with Tele Vue IMHO. Same time Nikon EP's are a lot cheaper in Japan than Europe. Vixen telescopes are similar price to Takahashi in Japan and then large markup in EU.

I’d also put this scope forward, compact mini TOE scope, very fast for wide field/NV applications. https://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/founder-optics-telescopes.html Note: just because it uses the same tube as other Long Perng scopes does not mean same lens cell. Different dimensions to the FLO flavour.