Second Time Around

Thanks, John. The only reason I asked is that I found some that was supplied flat.

Would it be better to buy the acrylic sheet flat or rolled, John? Thanks.

The large oblong button is the on/off switch. Additionally, holding it down varies the brightness. The small round button varies the colour. So yes, you've got the new, better model.

More about the Black Diamond headlamps from what I posted before. "I'd strongly advise you go for a headlamp that has separate switches for white and red light, plus the ability to dim the light right down. The former is important as sooner or later you'll turn the white light on and ruin your dark adaption. The latter is important because nearly all headlamps are way too bright. By far the best I've found are some of the 2019 Black Diamonds. Confusingly, although the model name (but not the number) remains the same, many have been totally redesigned for 2019 with two buttons instead of just one. One of the great things about them is that only the larger button turns the headlamp on; the smaller button just changes from red to white, but nothing happens when you press it if the headlamp is off. Additionally, they remember the last setting you used before turning off. For instance, if you finished with the red light at its dimmest setting, that's what you get when you turn it back on. Set up like this it means that it's impossible to turn anything on at the start but the dimmest red light - whatever button you push. Not all the 2019 Black Diamond two button range are suitable for us though. Some of them have battery check LEDs that light up when you first switch on. The problem is they're bright blue! Also note that the poorly-named Astro model doesn't have a red light. I started by buying two models, the Cosmo 225 and the Spot Lite 160, that use 3AAA and 2AAA batteries respectively. The numbers represent the max. brightness in lumens. Surprisingly, the red light on the Cosmo 225 goes dimmer than that on the Spot Lite 160, although this may just be a sample variation. The former is also on special offer at the moment because a new model, the Cosmo 250 has just been launched, that seems to be identical but has a higher output. I've just tested this, and comparing all 3 with fresh disposable batteries the 250 is indeed slightly brighter on full power white light than the 225, but there isn't much in it. On the dimmest red light the 225 and 250 are exactly the same. So any of the 3 models are fine for astronomy. There were complaints about older versions of these products having a weak closure on the battery compartments. This appears to be rectified nicely in the new models that have a firm, precise click action. I'd add that, here in Europe at least, these Black Diamonds have a 3 year guarantee. That doesn't of course prove anything, but they're expected to last at least that long. These headlamps should also be suitable for my fishing and camping as they have a waterproof rating of IPX8. This means that they can work for at least 30 minutes submerged to a depth of 1.1 metres (3 1/2 feet). However do note the battery compartment itself isn't waterproof and will need drying out. So for the first time I'm satisfied with a headlamp for astronomy and can thoroughly recommend these 3 Black Diamond headtorches. They're also very reasonably priced. Do check though that you're buying the latest 2 button models. Many outlets are still selling the similar 1 button type that's not good for us. For instance Amazon UK even has a picture of a 2 button Cosmo but the description suggests it's the old 1 button model. For the special offer Cosmo 225 go to https://www.trailblazeroutdoors.co.uk/outdoor-equipment/lighting/black-diamond-cosmo-225-headlamp-dark-olive" However, as Kluson said, don't wear a headlamp when with others as the light will shine into their eyes. Instead, carry it in your hand like a torch. That way a headlamp is dual-purpose.

+1 for the Hershel Museum.

Many thanks indeed, John.

Many thanks indeed for all the replies. @John Inderby I like the idea of the acetate sheet as I don't think I'd be capable of doing a good job half way down the tube (thanks, Neil). Could I trouble you for a link to suitable acetate sheet (I'm not even sure what it is)? Thanks. If I muck it up on the acetate sheet it wouldn't be the end of the world as the OTA would still be fine. I could then wait until after lockdown to get someone to do it for me.

Rather than flocking my 10-inch OOUK Dob I'd intended painting it with Black 3.0. However I've seen several results that have put me off. I'm therefore after suggestions for which flocking material to use. My hands don't work properly, so it must be extremely easy to apply. The alternative would be to wait until the pandemic is over and pay someone to do it, which I may have to do anyway. Thanks.

Excellent!

Barry, there's currently a 12" Skywatcher Go-To in the For Sale section that seems to be well-priced. See https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/355835-skywatcher-12inch-goto-dobsonian/ It's collection only from Colchester, Essex so not too far for you to travel.

How to Build a Universe by Ben Gilliland. Easy to follow but detailed book on astrophysics (especially the Big Bang) with lots of diagrams. Note that there's another book with the same title by a different author.

You must be so relieved, Stu. I can only imagine how you must have felt! Hope it's sorted soon.

Wow! Only just spotted this thanks to the follow up thread. It's a day you won't forget in a hurry!

Something else I didn't know. Thanks.

Like many of their eyepieces the Baader zoom also has a 43mm thread. Mine takes a Dioptrx, but to make it more secure I add an O-ring or elastic band on the threads. Then I can pick it up by the Dioptrx. Note that a Dioptrx reduces the eye relief by roughly the same amount as many pairs of glasses. So the APM you've bought is a good choice. In fact, I'm tempted to buy one and compare it with my discontinued 22mm Vixen LVW.

Now that is very interesting! Thanks for the heads up.

10.9mm on both the 8 and 10 inch.

Are any of the contents made of glass? If so are you looking for insurance for loss and/or damage? The reason I ask is that when I was helping my wife with a business sending expensive glass paperweights all over the world it took ages to investigate all the small print in the terms and conditions of the various carriers and brokers. There was a huge variation! To cut a long story short, the only carriers that gave total coverage for glass were Royal Mail and UPS, though with the latter only by booking direct rather than through a broker.

The last post is over 2 years after the previous one. However I'd recommend you do try the 12x36is III. They're supposed to have a better IS system than their predecessors - certainly I've had no problems at all with mine. However if you found your 10x30s lacking in brightness you might find the same with the 12x36s as the exit pupil is the same. I don't find this myself, and the 12x36s are my dual purpose birdwatching and astronomy binoculars. For me they're the ideal compromise between weight and performance. Indeed, the weight difference between these and the 10x30s is mimimal (660 v 600 grams) as they share many of the same components. I have no problems holding the 12x36s steady whereas my limit with non-IS binoculars is 8x. So one can see fainter objects with the 12x36s, but of course the FOV is smaller. The only downside of the 12x36s for birdwatching is the poor short focussing ability of 6 m/20 ft. Most of my birdwatching is in open country so for me this is no problem. If it were then the 10x30 IS II that focuses down to 4.2m/14 ft might be a better compromise. I did consider the new 12x32 version that has a much closer minimum focus of 2 m/6 1/2 ft but this is far more expensive in the UK. In the States the price was put hugely down soon after launch, but it hasn't happened here. The other problem is dewing up. With the new 32mm series the objective is very near the far end, plus the design means that it would be very difficult if not impossible to fit a dew cap. With the 12x36 and the 10x30 the objective is recessed quite a bit, which is important in our damp, dewy climate - especially as much of my birdwatching is near water. Additionally the design of the 12x36 (but not the 10x30) means that a dewcap could be fitted. For close range birdwatching and dragonfly watching I use my 8x42 Opticron Discovery that focusses as close as 1.5metres/5 feet and is one of the most compact 8x42s on the market.

Sorry, lost the internet for a while and posted without checking there had been any more replies q in the meantime!

https://www.cloudynights.com/articles/cat/user-reviews/24-26-mm-eyepiece-comparison-r2651 This is a very comprehensive comparative review of a great many 24-26mm eyepieces, including the 2 you asked about, by Bill Pasolini.

I'm a recent SEKAS member myself - a great bunch of people. Thanks for the heads up about St. Margaret's. My wife and I very briefly explored that way last year but the unmade up roads eventually defeated us. It seems as though we ought to have a longer look, especially as I've now got a Sky Quality Meter.

We're out in the sticks on the Sandwich side of Canterbury but have driven through Old Wives Lees a couple of times. We moved here 8 years ago, but unfortunately it's no longer as dark as it was even then.😒

As I posted earlier, a headlamp doesn't have to be worn on the head; if you're with others it can be held just like a torch. So dual purpose.

The David Chandler Night Reader Pro looks interesting. It looks very similar to the Photon Freedom Micro I bought from the US and can recommend but which is much more expensive when you add postage and taxes etc!