Carbon Brush

Oh dear. I would not trust a scope to baggage handlers unless it was in something like a pelicase. Even then, the shocks while dropping on/off conveyors are a big consideration for a scope. A refractor in a pelicase would be OK. Not a newt.

If the trip is under your close suprvision (your car) a small sleeping bag or a duvet would do. I usually grab one when travelling with any big scope. It might come in handy while out late at night😄

To add to the confusion. Keeping an object in the narrow field of a MAK calls for a driven mount. If you want visual, or short duration photo, an AZ driven mount is OK. EQ for longer exposures & easier stacking/processing. A mount packaged with a scope is usually undersized for photo use. If it was me... But I already have more than two scopes....I would... Look for used a EQ5 or bigger mount on SGL. Look for a used MAK 127 or similar on SGL. If a scope + wrong mount package comes up, ask the seller about splitting. Alternatively buy the lot and then sell the unwanted mount separately. Or keep the unwanted mount for your 3rd scope🙂

Yes scope loan is a good thing. I have done it a few times. Sometimes the recipient has said thanks but you didn't tell me about the cold and cloudy nights🥶 Then there are the 'they all look the same size on the web page' when you show them a big dob😆 Other times the recipient has asked where he can buy this (not getting used by me) type of scope. Well I can help🤑

I have used 8" & 10" reflectors on EQ5. Yes they have worked OK. Though we always seek the more stable (heavier & more money) mount. Another vote for a 127Mak on a driven mount.

The 'right' scope depends of course on the user and the circumstances. An 8" dob is great if you can store and carry it. If you live in a 3rd floor flat and have a bad back......... I try to ask about the user and the circumstances. Sadly the advice to ask at an astro club is not always valid. Many years ago I visited a club several times. They used to sit around and talk, nothing more. I did not own a scope and wanted a look through something 'proper' as well as advice. Another club I tried - and joined - elected a chairman who did not even own a telescope! They just wanted to get the money in from chargeable public open evenings.

I'm glad it is not just me who thinks the new NASA package is Apollo again! This is all from memory, not referenced. To get the 60s technology into perspective.... The first pictures of the far side of the moon were taken using film, which was on board processed. Then shown to a really basic TV camera for slow data rate transmission to home. Sir Patrick Moore, an amateur stargazer, TV presenter and author, spent time in the USA squinting through the eyepiece of a decent scope in a clear sky, so NASA would have a decent map. Apollo11 was filmed in monochorme because a colour video cmeara was a huge clumsy thing. First time they used colour on a later mission, it fried when pointed at the sun. Half a century later, come on NASA, just what are you playing at? Just copy some of the SpaceX ideas to get you going. Well maybe not filling LEO with satellite clutter.

Presumably you have a fully automated observatory? That being roof off by power. Objective lens cap removal by power? If not, you still have to visit the observatory. Is fitting the objective filter a big task if you are there? How will your 1.25" filter like handling all the energy from an 80mm objective? I suspect heat and fracture are a big risk. Or maybe a certainty? Accidents like the wrong filter wheel position will happen. As you are going to blast a replaceable camera, rather than your (non replaceable) eyeball, why not try it. My choice for white light viewing is a Herschel wedge, which requires a visit to the observatory😁

Hello and welcome to SGL. Astrophotography can be a simple as a camera pointed to the sky. But it can easily become a money pit. Think £1K+ each for scope, camera, mount, set of filters....... Yes you can get carried away. The first thing in astrophotography is a good rock solid mount. Without this you don't get anywhere. Think BIG mount and small scope for keeping things rigid. The scope & mount packages sold are generally not good enough for serious imaging. The manufacturer puts the biggest scope he can on the smallest mount. OK for visual but not photography - you can deal with the flex and wobble. You need to buy scope and mount separately, going a size up on the mount when compared to the package. I think if you take a look around the forum and read what others are up to, it will help. Also, I think your scope 114/5000 maybe a typo for 114/500, in which case it is not suitable. Keep asking the questions, David.

As a general rule, the quality of advice offered is going to be determined by the quality of information provided. I spend a lot of time telling my customers that 'Does not work' is not a fault description😁 In looking at this problem. Why do so many wait to try basic alignment and focus with clear sky and in darkness? For checking an imaging setup, there is nothing wrong with looking at a distant horizon, tree, power pylon, etc. in daylight and simply reducing exposure time. Works for me every time. Also on a new setup, it helps me find things that are unplugged, tight cables when the mount moves and a tablet/laptop that won't behave. HTH, David.

If you want to sell this week. astrobuysell UK. If you want hassle, ebay. If you want to deal with friendly and interesting people, sell on SGL. When selling I know the SGL member will be in the community, and I want to remain in the community. Equipment defects must be declared🤥 SGL is always my first call when buying. From a buyer perspective I can look at seller history. Does the member contribute to discussions? Does he sell a different scope every week, claiming to have have used it for a year and thoroughly enjoyed the views? Just my take on it. As for an astrojumble. They don't seem to happen - or if they do, nobody has told me🤔!

Thinking back to my school days (when physics chemistry and biology were separate subjects) I definitely enjoyed the practical aspects of the studies. Planning an experiment and writing a report were also enjoyable. So yes science is a practical subject. By the way. Astronomy is a very practical and varied hobby. Yes some will buy a full set of kit from a shop and stare upwards. That is fine. My enjoyment is trying different things. Building different assemblies and the like. The hobby can include understanding planetary motion, optics, mechanical engineering, electronics engineering, programming and more.

I don't know this equipment, but have a couple of possibly useful comments. As a very general rule, if after some years, something starts to fail on heating, it is generally down to component degradation. The fan is just delaying the failure. If you have a USB/serial adapter in the line, they rarely provide full RS232 signal levels - +/-12V signalling. Old RS232 interface circuits often expect a half decent signal level. more recent circuits are more tolerant. Could it be down to marginal RS232 levels that drift on heating? A quick glance with an oscilloscope will help show what is going on. On a different note. ROHS rules and regulations. Components sold within the EU have been ROHS compliant for many years. The law became active in (I think) 2006. However, component suppliers were getting things set up much earlier - pre 2000 I think. The grey cells are vague on dates from 20 years back. We found that swapping to lead free solder had almost everything sorted because component suppliers had done their job. I doubt ROHS non-compliance was really a reason to stop selling. Unless the manufacturer wanted to keep using his 1990s and earlier components stock. I picked up a lot of non compliant components cheap in the early 2000s. For use in applications where ROHS was not yet a consideration. The distributors were clearing their stock to avoid rik of mixing parts. HTH, David.

Before spending any serious money, I would prove camera performance in the dark. If you said it was a Canon that many use for astrophotography, it would be different. I don't know anyone using a Fuji camera for Astro - though I'm sure someone on the forum will be along with knowledge. Cameras that are great in daytime, or evening light can be awful in astro applications. Just put the camera + lens on the mount and run some 2 to 5 minute exposures. In very basic terms on a few minutes of exposures.... If your stars are straightish lines, it is probably mount polar alignment. If your stars are wobbly lines, it is backlash in drive, or errors in the gear train. If your stars are well focussed in the centre, but oval at the edges, it is the lens. close down 2 stops from full. Does it improve? If there is a noisy background, look to camera settings for the source. Lower ASA for example. If the bright stars bloat over multiple pixels it could be the lens, or it could be the camera sensor.

Yet another bigger mount or smaller scope comment. May I suggest something in the interim that won't break the bank? Do you have a long lens for the camera? Say 200mm or 300mm FL? Try photos using this combination. The wider FOV will be more forgiving of the mount. That will show you just how well (or badly) the mount is tracking. The shorter (than scope) assembly will put less flex/bend on the mount and tripod. It will also allow you measure how well this camera works at low light and long exposure. I don't know this camera at all. It may be superb at night, or it may have sensor noise and other problems. give it a try. HTH, David.

A random muttering from me. I have dabbled in imaging but never got further than tearing out hair in frustration and emptying my bank account. No seriously I remember a long time back (2006ish?) struggling to find a digital camera with a sensitive sensor that I could afford. Even now we see cameras, filters, computer control mounts, etc all very easily going into decent used car or kitchen refit money. But we don't have spend big to get enjoyable pictures. Right now in the classified there is a Skywatcher driven mount and a modded Canon DSLR. I'm sure if look further there will be a Canon lens and a tripod. I reckon for about £500 that would make a good widefield imaging rig, producing immediate results. When I say immediate, I mean if the sky ever clears. But you get the idea. Most of us have a computer in the house for the post processing part - so that is in effect free. Similar money to the Dwarf & Seestar offerings, but with the option of using different camera lenses for differing FOV. Imaging is affordable!

I have never had any issues carrying binoculars, cameras, etc. However, I suggest you check the Air France web site for their up to date list of prohibited items. For reassurance print the relevant page/section to wave at staff if they say anything.

I have owned, or still own, 8", 10" and 12" reflectors. The handling change from 10" to 12" is far more than you might think for 2" of mirror. I would invite you to visit and have a go at moving my 12" dob, but you are a long way away. Is there anyone nearer who might offer?

Thank you Steve. Nice images. Good to see the spots are still there. Reminds me that my Herschel wedge paperweight has an alternative use. I can't remember last time there was a bit of sunshine for long enough to set up a scope, and coincided with me being at home.

If you choose a linear PSU, the the small amount of self heating in use will help with condensation. Nevada PSUs get good comments from many astro users. There are others. If you choose a low cost switcher supply, there is the reliability question. I would stick with a known brand, not a funny name I had never heard of. Look for the manufacturer web site listing approvals - with downloadable certificates/test reports. There is a lot of landfill on sale online. Not just unreliable, but some is potentially dangerous. ANY power supply will be less reliable if heated. Generally steer away away from the plastic sealed style. The case is an excellent thermal insulator. Innards can cook but the case is only luke warm. Buy something with vents or a (thermally conducting) metal case. HTH, David.

I have owned various reflectors using dob or EQ mount. I can't comment on SW vs SL as none have been SL. However, a RACI finder and dual speed focus have (to me) been very worthwhile features. Also, the SW dobs have benefitted from a bit of 'adjustment' on rotating parts. The nice thing about a reflector on dob mount is you can easily 'fettle' any problems. Good luck with whichever you choose.

@Zermelo has raised an important point. As we age our ability to discern detail at low light level declines considerably. I was told by an optician that by age 60 we have 1/3 the night vision of age 20. So aperture will brighten an object to help compensate for old eyes.

I agree with @ONIKKINEN comments. However, given you have a short time available.... A DSLR grabs lots of shots without thinking about filters. You don't need computing power at the mount to handle the camera & filters. no additional power supply, etc. Once indoors you can start processing. Perhaps a simpler solution to get you going? In the classified there is a modded Canon inside your budget. Caveat I have not used this model and I have no affiliation to the seller. I have used a modded (much older) 1000D. HTH, David. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/412217-astro-modded-canon-eos-1300d/#comment-4398526

Another 'before you buy" comment. Take a look at supporting approvals and safety documentation. Is there any offered by the battery manufacturer? With Tracer you have access to all the approval and test documents. Very handy for settling arguments with check in staff.

Ref @curtisca17. Yes the acceptable temperatures for charge and discharge do differ. Given that I am trying to suggest simple tests, it is easier not to push to the limits. In addition, I do not know what manufacture cells are being used by an individual. This is a further argument for simple tests that do not approach the safe use boundaries. Does this matter? Yes. Not all cells are created equal😁 I am currently working on a design that may mean cells getting used near their manufacturer published limits. As an example one cell I am looking at is good for discharge to 80C - but don't expect full cycle life. In addition for safety approvals, cells have to withstand 80milli-ohm discharge abuse without fire or explosion. Further they have to withstand oven at 130C without fire or explosion. They don't need to work after short circuit or cooking - just not destroy their surroundings. Would an unamed cell from a product sold on fleabay or amazon marketplace pass these tests?