AstroMuni

As already mentioned above they are all going to be stars from our own galaxy. Galaxies will appear as fuzzy blobs even in telescopes when viewed visually. With cameras you are likely to see more detail. Think about it this way, our nearest galaxy is around 70,000 light years away. Our very own galaxy has a radius of approx 50k ly and we cant even see all the stars which are possibly there on the outer periphery. So the only time we can really observe a star from another galaxy is when there is an event like a supernova (eg the one thats visible in M101 at the moment)

I was referring to EQMOD/ASCOM drivers. This has more info https://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/docs/EQMOD_Doc.pdf

How about something like a MAK, something like this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/telescopes-in-stock/skywatcher-skymax-127-eq3-2.html This would leave you some budget to get decent eyepieces etc.

Have you got the right drivers and have you rebooted after the driver install?

While we seem to have a glimmer of light for RPi being more readily available soon(?) there is no clear future for astroberry. Whilst there is stellarmate OS, there is no prebuilt like for like equivalent for astroberry in the 64bit space. There are many scripts available to compile your own version of Kstars and PHD2, but the rest of the useful tools that astroberry provided are not in the mix. 😞 Just my rant...

I have used the Celestron 130EQ for astrophotography (see my signature line) but as @ONIKKINEN has mentioned, the mount is not suited for that and I upgraded to the HEQ5 pro. The scope is more suited for deep sky objects than planets - you would need something with a longer focal length like an SCT or Mak for planetary.

I have the HEQ5 pro and its definitely PA first and then place in home position. The bit that was confusing for me in the manual was the polar scope reticle. Mine has a clockface and not the one shown in the manual. If yours has the same then you just need to get polaris at the right position on this clock. I use an app on my phone to tell me the correct position of polaris at the time of alignment. I actually ended up writing a short FAQ on this after various discussions on this forum. The other thing that got me down a rabbit hole was people suggesting opening up the polarscope to realign the reticle so that 0 is up in the home position. You DONT need to do that, just rotate the mount around the RA axis until the 0 position is at the 12 o'clock position. The important thing to check is what @carastro has mentioned about checking if the polarscope is correctly aligned. There is no bubble level on my HEQ5 pro. The paving is quite level where I set up so I havent felt the need to use a spirit level. Others have explained other tips quite well so I wont repeat. 🙂 Good luck.

Nice one @tomato 👍. Here is my attempt - a quick 120s x 30, captured on Saturday night. It must have been a massive SN for it to be seen at similar brightness as the foreground stars from our galaxy.

@DPF also remember that when you increase the magnification, you will find that the slightest touch to the scope will cause the image to jitter. So bear this in mind and you may wish to go for a more sturdy tripod to reduce this jitter.

It seems odd that such a small exposure is causing so much drift 😞 Perhaps someone who has done imaging without tracking can comment. This may help https://beltoforion.de/en/astrophotography/camera_settings.php

Nice image! Stars are showing a bit of elongation that maybe because of slight drift or its not correctly collimated. If you are seeing elongated stars in the individual images then its collimation.

Sorry to hear about your personal loss. Ref spikes, I would say its down to personal preference on how much diffraction is acceptable for you? The mirror clip mask should reduce the spikes in the centre, and in order to make the large spikes pointy(er) you would need to straighten the vanes. Also bear in mind that its not often that you are going to image a star as bright as Vega 🙂 Nice mount, btw 🙂

The other reason maybe the curvature of the OTA as well, so worth checking this too.

Hi Nikooo, the first thing I would do is get to know how to use your scope. eg. how to use the finder and get the object in your eyepiece etc. Learn about objects in the sky either using an app on the phone (skychart) or via a PC based software like Stellarium. Use the lowest magnification eyepiece and learn these. If you find that you are NOT getting round stars then you can look into improving the collimation mentioned above in other posts. Also feel free to post your questions here once you get started. Good luck.

Hope you are enjoying it Ash 🙂 Good luck. Images look great

Something like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225443294900 which you can cut and insert into the gaps. So depending on the play in your focuser you may need thicker ones. I also tried the plumbers PTFE tape but that didnt work and I realised that you need something more stiffer .

Now you are getting into areas like the ZWO ASIAir controversy. 😉

Before you make alterations to the actual platform, suggest you put props under the unit to raise the level at the appropriate end. That will give you an idea of how much correction is needed. And then you can decide best approach.

Try inserting teflon strips into the gap(s) to reduce the rocking. Thats what I had to do on my Celestron Astromaster which needed 2 strips to reduce the slop.

I have the ASI533mc Pro and I havent found the need for darks (yet) as there is no amp glow. Ref cooling, the noise due to dark curent is shown in their manual. In winter we are anyway talking about temperatures below 15deg so hardly any dark current. Cooling is a nice to have (not a need to have) feature when your budget is stretched, IMO. So either opt for a second hand cooled version (like I did) or wait until Christmas 🙂

Thats sad. Any idea what is the ST port used for on the old model?

Before you purchase an ASIair, check if the mount works with your laptop using the cable.

Is there a particular reason you are looking at the ASI imaging software? There are plenty of free software that are better at imaging - Firecapture, NINA, Ekos, Sharpcap to name a few

Thats sad about FC. I did have a go at running Nou's script and managed to install Kstars on 64 bit RPi OS. I also tried out AstroPi3 and that didnt work well. Several dependencies and repositories are incorrect 😞 AstroPi3 has scripts for installing INDI web and PHD2 so it would be good to get an integrated script that did all.

So do I download this script to RPi and run this script from there? I think Firecapture is written in Java so should work in 64bit OS as well