Vulisha

Oh sorry I ment on this part about 85° : "The DEC setting circle is fixed, and with screws, but look at where it points, and at its home-position... ...at about 85°. You can't rotate the circle independently of the axis. Is that correct, or does it even matter? I know that I won't be using either circle, in a practical manner, but I want it to be correct nonetheless." But latitude is wrong as well in my, but i do not bother so much with that one. So that circle is wrong? it should be 90° in the middle ,and i should not rely on that circle as well?

Hi vlaiv I actually have very big light polution issues, so i took your advice, set EOS M on 130p and took 80 6 second exposures @ 3200 ISO of Orion nebula, and result was great! Just stacked in sequator with some options, no post processing. Oh, I don't have heavy duty, only small ones, tried and gave up as I am not sure will it even fix whiplash. I also noticed as you have that 90 degrees is not in line with RA axis, did you ever found an answer is that suposed to be?

Well weekend has come, and I relubed mount, tried to disassemble and fix it even more with this guide: But my all of my socket wrenches weren't able to go inside nut hole, so that failed. Then I tried again to polar align my telescope with "drift align" technique using 130P but that did not help since it drifts differently all the time, there was no wind at all but results were better but not. good enough. As you said probably mount gears are eggy and probably simplest solution would be to get some more serious mount that can accept proper guiding. So I am already looking at some (maybe used) EQ5 + OnStep and some guide cam and scope. Wife will be mad 😂 Only solution that could work is shorter expo, and then stack them.

Thank you very much on such detailed answer! Yes first issue of flowing up is due to Polar alignment error, I didn't try so much with alignment since it is not so big zoom but should do that better as well. Regarding mount zigzag, i will definitely first try to disassemble and fix mount as much as I can and then I will maybe try to add some feature for fixing zigzag into Arduino code but it is not as easy task since it has to have calibration option so if I change something I can re calibrate. But first step is fixing mount, I tried to grease up worm gear, hoped it would fix it at least a bit, but it did not. I have googled there is some content on tuning EQ2 so that could help as well. Yes I can see you had? similar issues did you fix it?

Hi guys, I have EQ2 mount motorised wirh custom arduino software and stepper motor, but I have issues wirh tracking since mount goes one frame left one frame right, as you can see on star trails in gif bellow. Exposures are almost 2 minutes, pictured with 18-55 at ~25mm f6.3 I know EQ2 is nothing special but it is only camera with almost no zoom. Do you have any idea what could be the problem? Is this normal for this mount and can it be fixed?

Love your work, what wonders could you make if you had weather like me(40 cloudless nights straight). Diffraction spikes on stars are great.

if you can glimpse andromeda with naked eyes, then guide stars are visible, an you will be able to easily find objects, if you live in heavily light poluted areas as I am, then I would recommend GOTO, since it is pretty frustrating trying to find gudide stsr with red dot.

There is also this app, it is in beta: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.seebi.deepskycamera&hl=en It does not work with OnePlus 5T max exposure is 0.1(although app says it is 48, but oneplus messed something up) but it should be good on Samsungs up to S9 I think, you can try it out as well. @Ggan I will probably need to modify focuser to be low profile for EOS-M so keep us updated please

Hi mate, I have Heritage 130p and did this with phone: My equipment is: Heritage 130p, Used EQ-2 mount(about 60 eur), although EQ3 would be much better, this one has a bit of whiplash Arduino Due with HC-05BT module for mobile speed control(15eur) Stepper (20 eur) Telescope phone holder(10 eur) Svbony UHC filter - because of my high light polution(25 eur) Svbony 26mm plossl(25 eur) Phone of choice (mine has max 30 sec exposure, maybe even too much for this setup) I also now ordered Canon EOS M for 120 eur, although not perfect option because of missing usb control, it is light (250 grams), and I am waiting for an adapter (5 eur)

Hi guys, here is Orion nebula taken with Oneplus 5t, through Heritage 130P on EQ2 with custom arduino tracking, 26mm plossl with Svbony broadband UHC filter in Brothle 8-9 sky. iso 1600, 27x30 sec exposure stacked with sequator no dark no bias. Also there is one unstacked 30 sec exposure as seen for reference. No special adjustments(or proper colimation) made. OnePlus 5T is good option for this usage because it has 30 sec exposure in pro mode, and it can capture raw(although this is stacked jpeg, didn't want to bother with raw editing if someone wants raws I can upload them), but it can

For fiver cam and small scope this is impressive, well done

Really stunning!

This is stunning, borderlines with astrophotography

Hi barkingsteve, Thanks on very useful post. I allready have CLS and UHC filters, so that should be good. But 294MC Pro results are stunning. For now I think I might get something more affordable/used and with smaller FOV, but I think good buy will be something with 183C chip. As I can see on calculator you provided(thanks on that as well) it is half way from 385C and 294 in both price(Altair cooled is 500GBP) and FOV wise and with 0.5 reducer it could fit Andromeda. Calculator is really fun will pay with it more

These are stunning eaa images. Impressive equipment, too bad that camera is way out of my budget What would you recomend for more budget friendlier alternative? Very interested since I have brotle 9 skies as well and visual observation is basically useless for DSO. What mount do you have?

Interested in this part as well, would jupiter at same magnification, lets say 200x, with same quality Eyepieces, look better on 150mm SC f10 or on 150p f5 newtonian

Then go wirh celestron 6. You can't replace sky quality with appeture, and dark skys matters most of all, if you will be able to easily take Celesteon to dark place buy it since from light poluted place you will be able to observe moon, planets and double stars if you can even find them ( I can't see Albireo with naked eye) even clusters are troublesome.

Think about Sky-Watcher StarQuest-130P, and if portability is more important then Heritgae Flextube 130p, or above mentioned 150p if better views are more important. They all have parabolic mirrors while 130m has spherical if i remember correctly

I have thst scope, with it i also got 2x Celestron barlow around 20€ 9mm svbony eyepiece 25$ 6mm svbony eyepiece 25$ Two nights ago weather was perfect and I observed moon jupiter and saturn at 216x magnification,(6mm eyepiece and barlow) I think that is upper limit. Fine little scope. I love it

If you have stock laser finder/red dot you need to set it up firsr. Point telescope to distant street lamp or something similar, and then using bottom and side screw on red dkt ajdusit it that red dot points at street lamp

Again me with DIY ideas, if you are interested in pushto it is very simple and affordable to DIY here is full guide https://www.instructables.com/id/Control-Your-Telescope-Using-Stellarium-Arduino/

Hi, doing something similar DIY currently so I need/have: OnStep GoTo software- https://groups.io/g/onstep/wiki/home - free Arduino Mega + RTC+ BT or similar device from OnStep wiki - 15-30€ 2x Nema 17 Stepper Motor with planetary gearbox 25-50€+ per piece, depending on quality - 1 2 Nema 17 brackets - 10 € Stepper drivers - 10€ Some power suply or battery + powerbank for arduino - 30€ Pulleys and GT2 belts(or similar) - 15€ 3D printed gear wheels for better transmition(200 GT2 teeth for OTA/ALT, 500 GT2 for Base/AZ) - 30€ OnStep seems pretty good.